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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 27 Aug 2015 :  11:54:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello everyone, I picked up a 1979 Trans Am about a month ago. Traded my 1997 Suzuki 1400 for it. I had been looking for a replacement for my 1979 Trans Am for the past 16 years.

It need lots of TLC. Especially the engine, I got it started but turn it back off when I heard the noises. Maybe someone could listen to my youtube post and provide some guidance or thoughts on what it might be.


From some initial digging, I found it was a 1975 455 HO pontiac block, with 400 pontiac heads, a Edlebroke performance dual plane manifold, and 750 Eldelbroke card. So I have myself quite a mixture to de cypher. Who knows what inside for cam lifter thing chain etc. I did pull off the valve cover and the rockers look standard for a 400. If you all could listen to the Youtube video i made of the first start, tell me what you think, or where I might start troubleshooting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLEZPxnz_3o

cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 27 Aug 2015 :  2:30:49 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That is some strange and irregular noise, at the end sounds like a rod knock? Maybe fan is hitting something? Something hard in one of the cylinders? Any clue if it's high or low on the motor? bent push rod?
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 27 Aug 2015 :  2:57:21 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bent push rods, bad valves and broken valve springs to start. The engine is sick. Time to pull it and check out heads, crank and pistons.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Matt H
Cochise

USA
310 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2015 :  12:11:39 AM  Show Profile  Visit Matt H's Homepage  Reply with Quote
What casting #s are the Pontiac heads? Also check the torque convert
bolts. If there loose they can make a similar sound. I believe there
are 3 bolts. If that checks out, spun rod bearing, collapsed lifter,
valve train damage come to mind.

Matt H

Edited by - Matt H on 28 Aug 2015 10:36:37 AM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2015 :  11:32:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Forgot about the converter bolts, that could be a lucky save here.
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Red Horse
Sitting Bull

202 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2015 :  9:41:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
squeeking sounds like dry rocker arms. Also maybe bent push rods,Compression check is in order. Probably best to just save time and take the engine apart.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2015 :  9:46:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Congratulations! Looking forward to seeing it (post some pics) and watching the work you do on it. Also, welcome to the site.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 30 Aug 2015 :  10:12:43 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thats for all the support everyone. I Started it back up again after loosening the belts a bit and putting in some mystery oil to let it work its way into the cylinder block and heads for couple of days. This time I never heard the sound, but the engine would not stay on at a lower RMP. Water also seems to be flowing pretty steady from the overflow, that how I found out I had a hole in the container. lol. I also found out that one of the fuel pump lines had just be blocked off. I believe it is the return/overflow line that goes back to the tank. In the mean time, i have stripped the interior trim and headliner, and I'm in the process of re dyeing the trim. Will get back to the engine next week. I will be checking the converter also, I noticed when i jacked it up that the cover was missing that covers it. Would post some pictures, but it seems a bit hard here. In the mean time i started my own Facebook group to track the cars progress. https://www.facebook.com/groups/El.Paso.Trans.Am.Club Lots of pictures there.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 01 Sep 2015 :  7:41:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well got 75% of the trim pulled out cleaned up, dyed and back in the car. Got lucky and the vinyl paint was still on sale so i picked up a couple more car so I can finish off the remaining parts this weekend. Will need to redo the headliner. Gonna go to Joann's Fabric to see if I can pick up something that will do the job. Gonna dig into the Dash panel gages and lighting t see what up there. Only the Fuel and Oil pressure gage lit up, and the dimmer is not working very well.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 02 Sep 2015 :  1:26:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I may attempt to start it again this weekend, I am hoping I don't hear the sound. Wish me luck. :-)
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Boyle

Bent push rods, bad valves and broken valve springs to start. The engine is sick. Time to pull it and check out heads, crank and pistons.

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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 02 Sep 2015 :  1:30:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Boyle

Bent push rods, bad valves and broken valve springs to start. The engine is sick. Time to pull it and check out heads, crank and pistons.


I hope not Bill. Would need to buy an engine stand etc. But if need be I will, probable the only way to find out exactly what was installed in the guts..
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 02 Sep 2015 :  1:40:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Matt H

What casting #s are the Pontiac heads? Also check the torque convert
bolts. If there loose they can make a similar sound. I believe there
are 3 bolts. If that checks out, spun rod bearing, collapsed lifter,
valve train damage come to mind.



The engine Block has a casting of YY (front passenger) and a date code of L245 by distributer. December 24th, 1975. Possible a 1975 455 HO block, but I also looked on the block driver underside where they normally stayed in the engine size. and only saw ?00 stand there. So I'm more confused now.


The heads a casting number 6X just not sure of the chamber size.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 02 Sep 2015 :  2:06:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
What about in under the valley pan in the lifter valley, should be a 50 or 00 or 55 there (for 350/400/455 respectively.)
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 04 Sep 2015 :  10:01:27 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cortcomp

What about in under the valley pan in the lifter valley, should be a 50 or 00 or 55 there (for 350/400/455 respectively.)



Trying not to pull it off.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 04 Sep 2015 :  10:07:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Never knew trying to clean up something as simple as orignal ash trays would be so much work. Hehe... This weekend I 'll patch the radiator overflow canister, put the valve covers back on with a temp seal and see he I can get the engine to stay on at a lower RPM level. Maybe I have a vacuum leak, very possible as I did not replace the card gaskets after i cleaned and put it back on. Oh yea, need to fix the little rubber cap someone placed on the Fuel pump. Think it was for a line going back to the fuel tank (Return line) Anyone have a diagram on how it might have original been connected.
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Admin
Ye Olde Webmaster

844 Posts

Posted - 04 Sep 2015 :  2:48:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What are the casting numbers? (Found near the firewall, rear passenger side of the block).

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 05 Sep 2015 :  08:44:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ive not been able to locate that number yet. Will try this week end.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 08 Sep 2015 :  2:30:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Had a slow weekend on the car, my back was hurting me so I took it easy. Took most the front console off so I could get to the bad lights on the speedo and Tach. Started sanding down the front grills by hand which had three different color of paint on them. Last being the worst paint job of seen, I just could not look at the flaky paint any longer. :-)
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 09 Sep 2015 :  09:04:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I failed to do a good job of taping the console when i went to re dye it. Got some overspray on the plastic cover for the speedometer and tach. What would be the best way to remove without scratching it?
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 15 Sep 2015 :  2:38:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well this weekend, started the engine again, again It will only stay on if at a high RPM. As soon as I back off it dies on me. Wish I could fugue this one out. Carb, ignition timing issue, vacuum leak. I do know that the Edelbrock 750 performer card has a fuel leak right at the lever that gets depressed when you step on the gas. It is not major but indicated a gasket or something is worn.

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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 15 Sep 2015 :  2:54:54 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That really does seem like something with a vacuum leak going, hope you find it! For it to need that much to run, it'd have to be a pretty large leak.
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bluebird
Cochise

USA
292 Posts

Posted - 15 Sep 2015 :  5:47:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
After checking that obvious external parts aren't hitting anything, I'd pull the valve covers off, this will let you know if a rocker came off or something, and the condition of your upper valvetrain. It sounds to me like something associated with a piston hitting something. Maybe something stuck in a valve or on top of your piston, I'd get a compression tester ($20-$50) and bump the engine a couple times without starting it, watch your valves, see what compression your running on each cylinder. This will give you an indicator of any problems possibly fixable with engine still in place or which side its on. I wouldn't run the engine with that noise or you could cause more damage to something that isn't broke yet, costing more money in the long run. If you locate the problem to one cylinder via compression or abnormal valve movement. You can then pull just that head. I noticed a lot of blue smoke when you had it running, indicating either a lot of ring wear or valve problems. You may need to pull engine if the noise is coming from the bottom end. An automotive stethoscope is sometimes handy to locate noises if you feel comfortable running the engine, although I advise against it. Just my two cents on this. Once you locate the problem and fix it then worry about tuning engine and getting it to idle. B.T.W. Felpro performance gasket sets if needed are pretty reasonable online at http://www.competitionproducts.com/ Good luck!!

"Experience is the best teacher, unfortunately, it's the costliest!"

Edited by - bluebird on 15 Sep 2015 5:53:17 PM
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bluebird
Cochise

USA
292 Posts

Posted - 15 Sep 2015 :  5:58:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
One benefit of pulling the engine and doing a complete teardown is you'll know what you have. Be warned that Pontiac parts are more expensive than chevy. Sometimes I think a person can be time and money ahead by just buying an engine that is already running trouble free, and dropping them in, especially if you don't have the tools to overhaul an engine. You could always sell the engine as rebuildable to help pay for the new/used engine. I've seen running Pontiac engines as low as $400 on craigslist. My dad bought a nice running 389 for that price.

"Experience is the best teacher, unfortunately, it's the costliest!"
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 16 Sep 2015 :  10:40:15 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cortcomp

That really does seem like something with a vacuum leak going, hope you find it! For it to need that much to run, it'd have to be a pretty large leak.



Thanks, ill keep looking.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 16 Sep 2015 :  10:58:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Did you ever track down the source of the crazy noise?
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 16 Sep 2015 :  1:24:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bluebird

After checking that obvious external parts aren't hitting anything, I'd pull the valve covers off, this will let you know if a rocker came off or something, and the condition of your upper valvetrain. It sounds to me like something associated with a piston hitting something. Maybe something stuck in a valve or on top of your piston, I'd get a compression tester ($20-$50) and bump the engine a couple times without starting it, watch your valves, see what compression your running on each cylinder. This will give you an indicator of any problems possibly fixable with engine still in place or which side its on. I wouldn't run the engine with that noise or you could cause more damage to something that isn't broke yet, costing more money in the long run. If you locate the problem to one cylinder via compression or abnormal valve movement. You can then pull just that head. I noticed a lot of blue smoke when you had it running, indicating either a lot of ring wear or valve problems. You may need to pull engine if the noise is coming from the bottom end. An automotive stethoscope is sometimes handy to locate noises if you feel comfortable running the engine, although I advise against it. Just my two cents on this. Once you locate the problem and fix it then worry about tuning engine and getting it to idle. B.T.W. Felpro performance gasket sets if needed are pretty reasonable online at http://www.competitionproducts.com/ Good luck!!



thanks for the input. think my next purchase will be the compression checker so I can narrow down the noise issue. If it is rod knock or a worn crankshaft, it may be cheaper to just buy a 2500 Chevy 350 and throw it in. Really don't want too as Id prefer Pontiac or 400 or 455, but cost is certainly an issue.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 16 Sep 2015 :  1:33:59 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You can usually find a good mild running engine for around $500. to rebuild one, nothing crazy, and to have someone else do it, i'd budget around $2500-3k depending on rod and piston choices. That's not like head porting, alum or desirable heads, etc, just basic reliable rebuild.

Or the whole car for $2500 and sell/scrap the car afterwards? This one you could drive and run first:

http://elpaso.craigslist.org/cto/5214657664.html

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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 16 Sep 2015 :  9:05:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Modern steering geometry already built in. Not as desirable as the 68-69 but a better car.

Yes i really miss mine.


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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Mr. P-Body
Running Bear

USA
2258 Posts

Posted - 30 Sep 2015 :  4:13:43 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mr. P-Body's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hey guys...

Dude, your 400 (that's what the "00" means) is a '76 model. Casting dates for "next year" start after July 4. Dec '75 IS a '76. There is no '75 "455HO". There was one listed for '76, but it's "HO" in name only, it's a slug "stock". Easy to get misled.

You're probably going to find you've wasted time and effort in attempts to "save" the engine. It needs to be rebuilt to be reliable. So does the transmission.

While it's true, a small block Chevy V8 is cheaper to buy and/or build, it doesn't have the power potential, nor the low-speed drivability (when making 350-400 HP) to suit a T/A. BBC is NOT cheaper to build than a Pontiac at ANY level, unless you build a "high-end" version with "used" parts. Always consider, the 400 Pontiac makes about the same torque as a 427 or 454 Chevy. You can use that 400 to make a pump-gas, 350 HP/450 lb. ft. engine that will provide around 16-17 MPG and roast the tires "on command". There are a couple "lurking" right here, right now., with such 400s. You will also find, installing a Chevy V8 in a Pontiac-equipped F-body is no small task. NOTHING that fits the Pontiac will fit the Chevy. Okay, alternator and power steering pump, but not the brackets that hold them. Lastly, rebuild the Pontiac and the value of the car will be maintained as "original". The value will be cut in half with a Chevy in it.

FWIW

Jim
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 01 Oct 2015 :  09:25:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have one of those 400's that Jim is talking about. Matter of fact, his shop did the work on it. And everything he said, very, very true with my engine.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 01 Oct 2015 :  09:57:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Always Great to hear from Mr. P-Body!!!!


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 01 Oct 2015 09:57:44 AM
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 01 Oct 2015 :  6:38:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr. P-Body

Hey guys...

Dude, your 400 (that's what the "00" means) is a '76 model. Casting dates for "next year" start after July 4. Dec '75 IS a '76. There is no '75 "455HO". There was one listed for '76, but it's "HO" in name only, it's a slug "stock". Easy to get misled.

You're probably going to find you've wasted time and effort in attempts to "save" the engine. It needs to be rebuilt to be reliable. So does the transmission.

While it's true, a small block Chevy V8 is cheaper to buy and/or build, it doesn't have the power potential, nor the low-speed drivability (when making 350-400 HP) to suit a T/A. BBC is NOT cheaper to build than a Pontiac at ANY level, unless you build a "high-end" version with "used" parts. Always consider, the 400 Pontiac makes about the same torque as a 427 or 454 Chevy. You can use that 400 to make a pump-gas, 350 HP/450 lb. ft. engine that will provide around 16-17 MPG and roast the tires "on command". There are a couple "lurking" right here, right now., with such 400s. You will also find, installing a Chevy V8 in a Pontiac-equipped F-body is no small task. NOTHING that fits the Pontiac will fit the Chevy. Okay, alternator and power steering pump, but not the brackets that hold them. Lastly, rebuild the Pontiac and the value of the car will be maintained as "original". The value will be cut in half with a Chevy in it.

FWIW

Jim



Yes I found out the 400 from 76 had YY code on the block also. One mystery solved. Back from my vacation and bought a compression tester. so ill run some tests this weekend and try to narrow down the problem area.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 05 Oct 2015 :  08:58:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Finally got me an engine cylinder compression tester and tested
Compression in each cylinder. Below results show the cylinder # Dry and wet test readings
1 D 141 W 185
3 D 132 W 162
5 D 130 W 225
7 D 141 W 230
2 D 137 W 195
4 D 81 W 129
6 D 30 W 42
8 D65 W 100
Could be a bad head gasket on the driver side block, three cylinders on the same head 4,6,8 with low compression and the middle one the lowest and worst. Wet test on #6 should have been higher also. This may also explain why the radiator water was bubbly the second time I started the engine and did not look right. I think the engine overheated and blew out. Looks like I'm gonna be taking the passenger side Cylinder block off. Oh what fun, I not done this since 1980. Maybe next weekend.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2015 :  12:08:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well got the passenger side head off yesterday, the number 8 and 2 piston were both hitting the combustion chamber on the head. Can anyone tell me how this can happen? I am assuming bad rod bearings or crankshaft bearing? I brought each piston to TDC and pushed down on them, Hearc a click when i pushed down but it did not appear to be any major gaps. Will pull off the driver side today to see if I have any of the same damage over there. Pushrods and valves all looked good. Number 8 cylinder chamber has some deep groves the head underside some deep pits now, At lease I know know have the 6x number 4 heads, if they are salvageable that is not known. Wish I knew how to post pictures here?
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2015 :  1:51:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
With the wet/dry compression test and witness marks of piston hitting head, sounds like your due for a complete engine overhaul.

Use one of the Pontiac specific builders. The local build everything machine shop will not due. Jobber 8 eyebrow pistons will not due. The felpro rear rope seal will not due.

It will be expensive but in my opinion, the 455 is a great engine. Took 2 years to get mine assembles and installed but even a budget build with good parts will give more than enough torque/power to roast and toast tires.



Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2015 :  5:43:36 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Well now we know what those crazy noises were in the video!
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 15 Oct 2015 :  2:36:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is a link to pictures of the damage. You may also notice the piston 8 and 2 have similar damage but piston 2 looks different from the other (Center). The same type of damage but less was occurring on number 2and 6 cylinder on the driver side head.

http://s989.photobucket.com/user/Edward_Ozogar/library/

Edited by - eviledolean on 15 Oct 2015 2:41:08 PM
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 18 Oct 2015 :  2:33:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
being offered a pontiac 400 that came out of a 68 GTO for $800. what do you all think good deal or not. No idea its condition.

Edited by - eviledolean on 18 Oct 2015 2:34:29 PM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 18 Oct 2015 :  9:55:21 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Does it turn over? That's not bad. I saw a 455 with trans that turned over, 74 2bbl motor, brackets, carb to pan, $300 on FB the other day. That was a hell of a deal though.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 19 Oct 2015 :  10:09:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cortcomp

Does it turn over? That's not bad. I saw a 455 with trans that turned over, 74 2bbl motor, brackets, carb to pan, $300 on FB the other day. That was a hell of a deal though.



No sure, I met with the guy later this week to check it out.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 19 Oct 2015 :  10:29:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This Sunday, I took apart the passenger side head, removing the rockers and valves. Nothing seems simple on this car. I found three different sized lockdown bolts on the passenger head. Just when I think I've found the dumbest install in the world. Had to get the wife to help as I could not depress and hold my cheap valve compressor tool, hold it and get the valve unseated and removed. Needed 4 hands and a rubber mallet. My bloody knuckles, LOL. It wore me out, so I never even attempted the drivers side. Looking at the intake and exhaust chamber, no sign of any damage or metal objects that might have been passed through. Will add the pictures to my photo bucket later this week. number 7 valve stem seal was broken. as a matter of fact i don't think they all even had seals. It looked like only on the exhaust side (will check the parts later as I did store each in a separate container for evaluation later) Exhaust valves had allot of buildup on them, and the top of three valves should some minor pitting, where the rocker arm makes contacts. Also found some fine metal slivers mixed in the oil, of course one found it way into my finger. LOL.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 20 Oct 2015 :  10:08:42 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok, how many Rocker bolt sizes can you put on a pontiac.

Well, let me see I had to use a 17 mil, 11/16, and 5/8 on my passenger side head. Must have been a top mechanic that put this thing together. So this car was raced before, by who? wanna be mechanics. LOL Everyday is an adventure and new discover on this project car. Cant wait to get the rocker/valves off on the driver side head. Valve stem seals were only on the exhaust stems, none on the intakes.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 30 Oct 2015 :  10:00:09 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What Heads would be the best fit for HP on a 455 block?
sets of #62 heads...1 ported and polished 1 set of rebuild able
set of # 15's
set of 4x
set of 5c's
sets of 6x
set of 47's
new set of 1.6 true roller rockers with poly locks and tray
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 30 Oct 2015 :  11:45:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You need the secondary id # for the 4x, 6x, and 5c.

-- http://www.butlerperformance.com/images/cylinder_heads/6xheadlocate.jpg --

15's small valve 72cc's
47's is a small valve head, 72cc's
62's is big valve 75cc's
These will need dished pistons, a combustion chamber modification, OR a very large advertised duration cam.
Large valves can be installed in the small valve heads for a price.

Its been written the 6x heads are the best of the best of the big chamber heads. 4x are prone to crack and to be checked very closely before money is spent.

I like this compression calculator.
-- http://wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php --


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 30 Oct 2015 12:05:50 PM
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 30 Oct 2015 :  11:58:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
With a strong port clean up behind the valve, 240 cfm can be reasonably easily obtained with and Iron Head.
Bronze guides, valves, port work, and milling will be in the $1500 range.

New Elderbrock aluminum heads will flow 270cfm out of the box and cost in the $2200 range.

Remember if aluminum heads are used, one more point of compression is needed to make up for the heat and combustion efficiency loss


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 30 Oct 2015 12:04:22 PM
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 02 Nov 2015 :  10:13:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Blued and Painted

With a strong port clean up behind the valve, 240 cfm can be reasonably easily obtained with and Iron Head.
Bronze guides, valves, port work, and milling will be in the $1500 range.

New Elderbrock aluminum heads will flow 270cfm out of the box and cost in the $2200 range.

Remember if aluminum heads are used, one more point of compression is needed to make up for the heat and combustion efficiency loss




Not certain what you mean by one more point of compression?
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 02 Nov 2015 :  10:23:03 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
9:1 to 10:1 is one full point.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 16 Nov 2015 :  09:23:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I finally got around to checking my heads to see if they were level. between the 4&6 cylinder i was able to get a spark plug gaper under my metal ruler from .0015 to a .004 gap was present in the one spot, the .005 would not go under. Everything else checked out ok, just on ebad spot. Makes sense since those were two bad compression tests above.

also anyone know what this GM part number is. Ive got this large metal piece that came with the car, was in the back seat. Looks like a long braket for something. is about the width of the car.

0010118533
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 28 Nov 2015 :  12:17:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well bit the bullet today and ordered some new deluxe door panels. The guys at F-Body are great. Order the door sweeps also


Need to fix my side Passenger door electric window issue before installing them.

Guys, my passenger electric window does not seem to engage properly. I hear the motor spin up but it is not engaging the gears. Man they hide these thing really well, I've even taken a video hoping i could see what was wrong. Anyone have a diagram on how it engages the gears. Maybe I'm missing a clip or something..

I also have one connection broken off of the electric door lock connector. How do you repair those things, they seem to be enclosed in that plastic enclosure. Would insert a picture but I've still not figured out how to do it here. when messing with it one my connection fell off :-( Where do they sell head replacements.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 02 Dec 2015 :  09:37:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Missed a good deal. 79 TA hard top, 403 auto. The car was in great shape running engine, tranny good, interior very good. Black leather seat were in prime condition not scratches, rips etc. Console and center console both had rack etc. For $2,200 it would have been an excellent buy. Guys was desperate for money and had been out of work for over a year. My timing just sucks. I just spent $1,500 on parts for mine and did not have any extra cash.
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eviledolean
Buffalo

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 23 May 2016 :  1:58:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Not done much on the Car over the past few months. Did throw on a new car cover on as the wind here in El Paso was tearing up the old one that came with the car. At least the work I have done is now protected as the Car sits outside. Was pulling off the AC/control unit from the dash and broke the plastic piece that holds it on. Not lucky at all, LOL. It looks like the units is bad anyways so no big loss.
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