Brand new product but Rodney Butler is doing some testing.
rodneybutler rodneybutler is offline Member
Location: Leoma, TN
Default I tested this seal 2 weeks ago on a forged crank with serrogations. As you know the original BOP seal works great on billet cranks without the serrogations. Dynoed with no evac first. No drips. Then hooked up a remote 4 vane vac pump driven by a 220 volt electric motor at max rpm that we use to check for vac leaks with the engine off. Made 22.8" and still climbing when the valley pan seal gave up! The old seal sucks in at 16". My dyno operator said he'd never seen any make of engine hold more than 21". Wasn't even mad about having to pull the intake and valley pan. Just excited about the rear main seal! Think this is what we've been needing for a long time.
Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/ TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
Edited by - Blued and Painted on 21 Mar 2014 12:05:55 PM
I am reviving this thread to see if there are any folks out there who can provided a 'long(er) term' report card on the BOP 1-Piece Rear Main Seal. Still drip free? Anyone develop a drip or leak after X-00 miles? I am in the middle of a rear main replacement on my 461. The serrations on the Eagle crank are 'noticeable' to say the least. We are going to smooth the edges without (hopefully) taking away too much 'meat' off of the sealing surface diameter. Rodney Butler's post seems to suggest that this seal works fine with serrations. I just wonder if after enough hours or miles of run-time, the serrations take their toll on this seal. Any real world feedback greatly appreciated. I am Pure Pontiac, but I sure can see why some have been 'assimilated' by the LS community...
Thank you Tom! I do have a few specific questions if you don't mind:
1) Did these go into builds with factory cranks or aftermarket cranks?
2) Do you know if your builders 'smoothed' the oiling serrations on the cranks?
3) Do you have an estimate of miles or hours of run time for each of these builds?
From what I have heard, stock or factory cranks rarely need additional polishing because the thousands of miles of friction turning against the original rope seal effectively 'smooths' out the factory oiling serrations.
Eagle cranks apparently have notoriously 'pronounced' serrations at the sealing area which should be smoothed out for a viton or lip style seal(?)
One is a 63 factory 4 cyc crank,one is a factory RA V 366 NASCAR crank and one is a Ohio crankshaft 4.21 stroke 3in main crank.The V engine has been running for months with no issue.The Ohio one was in the car before the V engine with a couple month of driving and the 4 cyc was just done with only about 10 miles on it but is dry as a popcorn fart.Tom