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 Scraping Off Body Paint With A Razor Blade
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Vanmor
Cochise

USA
573 Posts

Posted - 12 Feb 2014 :  09:02:29 AM  Show Profile  Visit Vanmor's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've been doing some reading about body work and paint. I've had a little experience with it, but wanted to try and bone up on the newer materials.

While digging for info, I came across some posts and videos of people who have stripped cars or trucks with a razor blade. You read right, a razor blade. Some used stripper but most did not. If it's not an original paint job, the paint will likely peel off.

I just had to try this. The only razor blade and holder I had was one of those cheap box cutter type. You know, the long skinny ones like I used in a grocery store as a kid. I went out to the garage and looked over the GTO.

The paint is awful on this car. It's cracking and peeling off everywhere. The car is white and the paint looks like an egg shell. I found a starting point and started scraping. I didn't expect it to work but it does. The paint just comes right off ! It don't peel off, it flakes off like the shell of a boiled egg.

Here is the horrible part. I think somebody painted this car without primer. I looked at the bigger paint chips and there is no primer on the back. There is no primer on the metal under the paint either.

I was hoping to sand some areas, reprime, and paint. Looks like the whole car has to be stripped of paint. I was not looking forward to that.

"A man has got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry

Edited by - Vanmor on 12 Feb 2014 09:04:25 AM

Admin
Ye Olde Webmaster

844 Posts

Posted - 12 Feb 2014 :  10:04:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow. First, with a razor blade--that's news to me. Secondly, peeling off like an egg shell--crazy. And lastly, no primer under the paint.

I know that some shops (cheap ones) do a cheapy re-paint over existing paint just by scuffing the old surface and reshooting the thing. But the original factory paint was under that with substrates of zinc or E-coating, and primers.

You would have had either enamel or lacquer on the GTO, probably lacquer and those coats are thin. Not finding any primers is a real head scratcher.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 12 Feb 2014 :  11:28:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
"I know that some shops (cheap ones) do a cheapy re-paint over existing paint just by scuffing the old surface and reshooting the thing."

I'm doing that, i love it because the factory paint is SO tough. It's really on there good. But i see why people want to get down to the metal and "do it right". The paint job that was over top of my factory was very soft though, like enamel with no hardner? It balled up when i DA'd it. 99% of it is gone now and down to bare metal or the factory paint/primer. I primered over that and went from there. I have some spots that just come off like Vanmor is talking about, like they painted it inside a car wash or something, no bite to the paint at all.
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Latech
Cochise

USA
397 Posts

Posted - 12 Feb 2014 :  5:25:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have seen it done that way for years.
Nothing new.It does work well.
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Vanmor
Cochise

USA
573 Posts

Posted - 01 Apr 2014 :  03:35:06 AM  Show Profile  Visit Vanmor's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I was wrong. There is some primer under the paint. It's that old rusty colored stuff.

I got a long handle that has a razor blade on the end. OMG that made it stupid fast. The paint just flys off the car and I can just sweep up the chips.

There is a little of the red primer left but it comes off very easy with my Black and Decker hand sander. It's shaped like a cloths iron and has the velcro sanding pads. I just wipe the area with acetone and give it a shot of self etch primer.

Still, a lot of the paint ain't that bad. A lot of it still has a gloss to it. I may be able to just sand those areas.

I found a shop in Memphis. The owner knows the kind of paint job I want. Most of his clients take the low buck approach and he knows how to make it work. Since I'm going white, he can get an industial enamel (not tractor paint, but paint they use on fleet vehicles) and clear coat it. He showed me an Olds 442 he did and it was slick.

"A man has got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry

Edited by - Vanmor on 01 Apr 2014 03:40:52 AM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 01 Apr 2014 :  11:04:28 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
vanmor: probably centari line. I'm using their auto finish with clear over it (even though it's single stage.) Then 3m DA sanding 3 stages (blocking 1000 if clear is rough), then 3 stages of 3m buffing. You can check out how it's coming here: The one bedside is amazing, the hood is fantastic:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=550931&page=13
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bnorris_74
Crazy Horse

USA
1442 Posts

Posted - 06 Jul 2014 :  07:21:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
TTT
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Bill Caprio
Tribal Scout

21 Posts

Posted - 24 Jul 2014 :  8:15:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I actually tried some paint stripper I bought at Lowes. I had to try it as it's biodegradable and smells like oranges, not chemicals. My wife can smell a bird fart as it flys by so this was worth a try. Put it on, let it sit for a few hours and it scrapes right off with a plastic scraper. It's called Citristrip. I did a 65 GTO with 2 large bottles.

Bill Caprio
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