I decided to research the clearance issue of headers in general. I called several header manufacturers/sellers. Companies like Hooker, Dougs, Doug Thorley, etc. all said about the same thing. They try to build in as much clearance as possible, but the general consensus is......... IF IT DON'T TOUCH IT'S OK !!! NO MATTER HOW CLOSE IT IS TO ANYTHING ELSE!!!
"A man has got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry
Just wondering how it went. I have a set of round port dougs that I had ceramic coated. Trying to install in my 77 t/a with E-heads on a '68 428 with motor mount conversion. Between the initial test fit and now, the front end came off for sandblasting and paint and new body bushings. Now the driver side header wont clock enough to seal because the rearmost tube is touching the frame rail. One of the tubes on the passenger side is touching one of the motor mount bolts too. It is like the engine needs to be clocked a degree or 2. Anyone out there with advice on this? Bend the tubes? If so, will the ceramic coating survive or need to be redone?
Guys,a life long friend of mine was Jess Tyree.He was in the header biz in the early 60s untill his death.I watched how the jigs were made.They start with a donner car and hand made a set and everything fit perfect and the jig was made from them.Now if the cars suspension was brand new for the jig they would fit a car perfect.Now put them on a old car where the suspension was worn out now they touch or rub some places.Its a crap shoot especially with a stick shift car.Tom