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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 23 Aug 2012 :  10:07:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey. Doing my first engine rebuild on a 1963 pontiac grand prix 389. It is bored .20 over now and I was just curious on advice for what new parts to get and what else I should be doing to it to make it run as smooth as possible. I am not looking to make it any faster than stock, just want a nice reliable engine considering it's all matching #'s. The motor is out of the car, how hard would it be to have the engine compartment painted with only the motor out of it? Do I need to pull it apart more?

Thanks!




Edited by - Cornelius on 23 Aug 2012 10:27:33 PM

cortcomp
Coyote

USA
4324 Posts

Posted - 23 Aug 2012 :  10:13:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Painting with motor out is great! climb right in, mask stuff off. 60% gloss is used a lot. I've done like 4 cars that way with great results. Easier to paint motor on stand, put painted brackets on, etc. Welcome to the site!

Pick a streetable cam and compression ratio, and go from there!
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 23 Aug 2012 :  10:26:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cortcomp

Painting with motor out is great! climb right in, mask stuff off. 60% gloss is used a lot. I've done like 4 cars that way with great results. Easier to paint motor on stand, put painted brackets on, etc. Welcome to the site!

Pick a streetable cam and compression ratio, and go from there!



Can I just re-use the stock cam? I want to keep it as close to stock as possible :)

Thanks for the quick reply. I got some pictures up now.
-Corey
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rad400
War Paint

USA
1242 Posts

Posted - 24 Aug 2012 :  07:38:25 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice ride man and welcome to PSP.

Conrad
79 Trans Am 400 auto Crower 60210 Torker II Holley 750 vac sec. #12 heads,3500 stall.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4009 Posts

Posted - 24 Aug 2012 :  08:31:15 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
There is no point, IMO, just to simply reassemble the engine with worn 49 year old parts. You should be able to get the same camshaft--perhaps from Melling as well as stock hydraulic lifters.

Do you know which cam is in the engine? (It is probably the '472'. Melling sells a cam and lifter set. See: Melling # : CL-SPC-5)

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Heddman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 24 Aug 2012 08:54:29 AM
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Brian R
Crazy Horse

USA
1448 Posts

Posted - 24 Aug 2012 :  09:16:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great car!

I just did my engine compartment a year or so ago. Perfect time to do it with the engine out.

Take a lot of close up pictures before you go any further. This can be a big help later on as I promise you - once you get started you will find yourself removing more and more. That's all good though as these are so easy to reassemble. De-greaser and lots of it. Spray it, let it soak in, hose it out, repeat. Spray it again, take a big brush and a small detail brush, scrub the daylights out of it, rinse, repeat. At this point 95 percent of the crud will be gone.

Get some wire wheels - both flat and cone types, using your drill,grind it all down to bare metal. Wipe totally clean with a tack cloth. Prime, smooth the primer down with a light sand paper. Clean all dust with tack-cloth. First coat of finish. Sand out ANY and all flaws, tack cloth, repeat. I have 3 and in some places 4 coats of high gloss finish and it looks great. I chose high gloss as it cleans up very easily.

Sounds like a lot of work but it goes quickly and you will be happy every time you pop the hood. It is very much worth it. I also did the frame, power steering pump, steering shaft, etc.

Using zip lock bags, label all brackets, bolts, screws, etc. Clean them and - using a piece of cardboard for the screws and bolts, stick them in and spray a couple of coats on them too. If you don't, the old crud on them will look like crap when you put it all back together.

Have fun and believe me, short cuts will bother you for as long as you own it. Going full bore is well worth it!!!

Edited by - Brian R on 24 Aug 2012 10:52:24 AM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
4324 Posts

Posted - 24 Aug 2012 :  11:13:14 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Ok i didn't go as far as brian :) I degreased it, pressure washed it, brake cleaned it, and then started painting over existing with different gloss levels of paint from kimball midwest. It's durable stuff. Other companies likely make a "heavy solids" paint. I used it on a boat outboard and it was great.

Anyways, AC and 4 bbl to boot! Love that color, my 66 cat is the same color, although not as shiny. They are nice riding and driving cars!
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
6379 Posts

Posted - 24 Aug 2012 :  12:56:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Agree wih Bill, don't even think about reusing the cam if you're redoing the engine. There are a bucket load of cams that will provide the stock characteristics you seek, some will even provide more power even though it's not on your "list".

"Chevy": even the name sounds cheap.

Edited by - Phil on 24 Aug 2012 12:57:24 PM
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67drake
Sitting Duck

Azerbaijan
1049 Posts

Posted - 24 Aug 2012 :  3:06:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice car!


71' GTO Original 400 M20 3.23 posi
13.95@102.1 MPH on street tires
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 25 Aug 2012 :  1:58:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
thanks for the compliments :)

and for the cam, I am not against changing parts just thought it might be okay to reuse. I'll get that lifter/cam kit. Anything else I should change? If i was to use a different type of cam, how much would it actually benefit me? and what cams would you recommend? Also, if I do change the cam would I have to change anything in the heads/intake/exhaust?

Thanks!
-Corey
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 25 Aug 2012 :  2:10:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
is this: the correct cam/lifter kit?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Melling-Camshaft-Kit/_/N-8zna3?itemIdentifier=179562_0_0_

Cause it's a lot cheaper through autozone than summit.

Also, I am looking for pistons/rings/main bearings/cam bearings

Any recommendations on brands for any of those pieces?

Edited by - Cornelius on 25 Aug 2012 3:50:57 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4009 Posts

Posted - 25 Aug 2012 :  5:58:54 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That's the right one.

The machinist needs to assess the block and determine what needs to be removed to clean it up. + .030" is typical for new pistons so the machinist should know what to do to get the proper clearance between the piston and cylinder wall. If you are doing a simple rebuild, all you need are new cast pistons. Again the machinist should be able to help you there. The key is they need to resemble the stock ones. Do not get pop-up pistons--wrong for Pontiac engines.

Forged pistons are generally heavier than cast ones. Forged pistons require rebalancing and possibly adding some weight to the crankshaft. Balancing isn't too costly overall...it's something you just need to keep in the back of your mind as part of your budget strategy.

Most guys go the forged piston route and get the required balancing. Talk with your machinist. Ask him about the pros and cons from his perspective.

If you buy pistons yourself...you'll need to give them to the machinist so he can measure them before he performs any boring.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Heddman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 25 Aug 2012 :  6:27:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm using Mark Degroff's machine shop in Northridge. He's super close to my house and has a pretty good reputation from what I could see from searching his name. My neighbor had a few motors bored out by him and a mechanic friend recommended him. He said a normal cast aluminum piston would be fine for a cruising around car which is all it will be. It might see the freeway and a few little car meet ups and that's about it.

for pistons, what's the difference between these two?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-W288P30/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-288P30/

Or should I go all out and get these? (forged) only forged I found for the motor, unless you know of another.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed-Power/844/L2111F30/10002/-1#

For the rod bearings do i need something called a "Chamfered Bearing"?

Thanks so much for the help so far, I know it's a lot of questions that might seem pretty annoying but just wanna do my first build right :)

I start class on Monday for engines at a community college near me, and I ordered the jim hand How to Build Max-Performance Pontiac V-8s
and How to Rebuild Pontiac V-8s books.

Thanks for the help so far!

-Corey

Edited by - Cornelius on 25 Aug 2012 7:33:25 PM
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
2499 Posts

Posted - 26 Aug 2012 :  3:19:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Welcome Corey to PSP. A stock build sounds refreshing. Your machine shop guy should have access to a torque plate for final cylinder honing. If not you may want to search for some one who does.

Bull Nose Formula, 461, R44TS, DEX/MERC
69 GTO-400/670/373/4Spd
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sixt8bird
Chief Many Horses

USA
1114 Posts

Posted - 27 Aug 2012 :  12:06:54 AM  Show Profile  Visit sixt8bird's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Torque plates are not necessary unless you want every tiny bit of HP. If your machine shop doesn't have one, don't sweat it. The factory didn't torque plate their millions of engines.
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rskram
Cochise

265 Posts

Posted - 27 Aug 2012 :  10:16:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm curious if anyone knows or has experimented to see how much torquing down a head actually distorts the cylinders? Sometimes I wonder if some machine shops just say they did it and didn't really even bother? How u gonna know unless u watch? I suppose you could torque a head down after you got it back from the machine shop and stick a dial bore gage up through the bottom to see if the cylinder is true?
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
2499 Posts

Posted - 27 Aug 2012 :  10:59:07 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
after installing the plate, the bore flexed .003 on my last .030 over 400. More or less .0015 on each side of the bore. My guy has 2 plates for chevy and 2 for fords he uses routinely. I had to locate, beg, and barrow a Pontiac plate from a perfect stranger. Almost no questions asked from my new pontiac bud, Doug Ferney. Doug is into stock rod, low buck, bracket racing his 65 GTO. But he still feals strongly about plate honing all the engines he builds.

Bull Nose Formula, 461, R44TS, DEX/MERC
69 GTO-400/670/373/4Spd

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 27 Aug 2012 11:01:55 AM
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rskram
Cochise

265 Posts

Posted - 27 Aug 2012 :  12:13:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
3 thou is a lot, I'm gonna torque plate mine for sure then...maybe they will let me watch them do it so I won't wonder if they screwed me or not.
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rskram
Cochise

265 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  08:20:02 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
For a mild performance engine like yours a good cast piston will work fine. Bearing sizes depend if crank needs ground or just polished. I guess im not sure what a chamfered bearing is...you could always compare to the old ones when you get them. You can get by pretty cheap with this type of build and it will still run good and be dependable for you.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
4324 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  09:32:24 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Chamfered is the beveled edges, is it not?
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rskram
Cochise

265 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  10:08:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes it is, I just didn't think that there were any "special" bearings needed...idk.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
6379 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  10:10:06 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just don't use muffler bearings.

"Chevy": even the name sounds cheap.
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rskram
Cochise

265 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  12:20:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yeah you definitely don't wanna use those. Lol
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
2499 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  1:15:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nope, If it needs muffler bearings, put um in.

Bull Nose Formula, 461, R44TS, DEX/MERC
69 GTO-400/670/373/4Spd
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  4:00:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Apparently the only forged pistons my machinist can find are for a 66 or 69 motor, and he said they would work but he'd have to rebalance the crank. Should I go this route? go custom pistons? or go cast?

cast are like 500, forged are like 670+ 160 balance, custom are 800 or 900 or something around there.

Thanks,
Corey.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4009 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  4:27:25 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
What overbore is your machinist recommending? What can you afford to do?

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Heddman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
2499 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  4:52:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is that Northridge California?

Bull Nose Formula, 461, R44TS, DEX/MERC
69 GTO-400/670/373/4Spd
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  4:58:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It's 20 over now but there aren't any pistons that size. So off the shelf I can get 30's and he'll finish boring it out. I can afford either of the three routes. Just curious what's the best route for me
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  5:37:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yeah northridge ca
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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1685 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  9:39:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hooray! A new fellow Californian! And he knows what color a car should be!

Welcome Corey. Looking forward to you getting that nice GP rolling and meeting you at some SoCal events! I'm in Norco, out by Riverisde and Corona.

My two cents are go with cast pistons, perfect for street use. Either of the cast pistons you listed should be ideal. Believe me, you'll be spending more money than you are planning to, because you know how projects go... LOL

Edited by - Vid on 28 Aug 2012 9:40:59 PM
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
2499 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  10:28:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If your conserns are oil leakes and some smoking or fouling plugs, perhaps a light overhaul might be an option. If the pistons and cylinders are in average to good shape, preform a light hone on the cylinder walls, clean the ring grooves and re install pistons with new cast iron rings and appropriate bearings. Install a new teflon/graphite rear rope seal then move on to the cylinder heads. This option will save money on parts but is labor intensive. Your builder may not want to go this route because it's hard to guarentee this type overhaul. I recomend the cheap-o cast iron rings because they will seat quickly on an old bore where a chromed top ring may never seat. I hope you agree 68.

Bull Nose Formula, 461, R44TS, DEX/MERC
69 GTO-400/670/373/4Spd
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 28 Aug 2012 :  11:47:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Will these pistons work? I know they say they are for 1966 only but they are the same size bore.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-WL2269F30/

They are forged and all that good stuff.
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Brian R
Crazy Horse

USA
1448 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2012 :  09:06:31 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes. They are very good pistons and are in many engines on this site. They are the old TRW forged. Identically same piston.

Edited by - Brian R on 29 Aug 2012 1:15:06 PM
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2012 :  12:39:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
the machine shop recommended this as a small cam upgrade, look good?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K51-207-4/?rtype=10
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
2499 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2012 :  12:58:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1208&sb=2

Bull Nose Formula, 461, R44TS, DEX/MERC
69 GTO-400/670/373/4Spd
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2012 :  2:10:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
For main bearings, I see two options of full groove or no groove
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLE-MS483G/ - no groove
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLE-MS496P/ - full groove

Or there are king bearings with 1/2 groove. Help? lol
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rskram
Cochise

265 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2012 :  6:38:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dude...you have to tell everyone EXACTLY what your intentions are for the car. Things like amount of money you want to spend, rpm range, horsepower desired, daily driver or not, type of fuel that you want to use...etc. Then everyone can give you better advice.

Seems like you started out wanting pretty much a stock rebuild, now your talkin more performance. You have to be sure what you want so we all know how to advise you. There is plenty of people on here that can get you exactly where you want to be with this build.

I used to have a 69 Lemans with an HO350, it ran an 068 cam that performed very well. It was a lil animal on the street for a 350. I was very happy with it's performance "at the time." It's specs were like 212@.050" on intake I believe? lobe seperation was 113.5 I think.

The cam your talkin about with 211@.050" and 110 LS with an overbored 389 seems like it maybe should have more lobe separation
or duration or both. It all depend on what you want...that cam may be fine for you.
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 29 Aug 2012 :  10:53:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Budget is $4,000-$5,000. rpm range would probably be on the lower end considering it's more of a cruising car. Not looking for a specific HP number, just looking to get a little extra while it's being rebuilt. Weekend cruiser, maybe see 5,000 miles a year on a heavy year. Pump gas.

Did start out wanting a stock rebuild, but I figured I might as well squeeze a little extra power out of it now while I am doing it since I probably won't be doing it again. I want it to look stock but have a bit more power than it did from factory.

If you need more info let me know, didn't mean to be so vague with my questions I just jumped into this pretty blindly and didn't realize how many choices there would be so please excuse my ignorance lol.

Thanks for the help so far.
-Corey
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rskram
Cochise

265 Posts

Posted - 30 Aug 2012 :  10:23:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's ok I wasn't trying to be a Dick we just need more specifics. Do you know what casting number your heads and intake are? You are going to use factory exhaust manifolds I assume, what size is your dual exhaust going to be?

Sounds like if you have $5000 to spend you might as well go forged rods and pistons in case you want a little more performance down the road, you don't want to regret that for just a few more dollars. The factory crank will work fine.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
2499 Posts

Posted - 30 Aug 2012 :  10:48:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
IMO I dont thing that body style lends itself to a hot preformer. Melling makes what they call a torquer replacement cam with .020in./.030ex more lift
but still a smooth idle and broad operating range. I have not used it but the specks are interesting for a light upgrade
http://www.omnitek.co/mellingweb/Partdetails.aspx?Part=MTP-1&From=A

debate needed


Bull Nose Formula, 461, R44TS, DEX/MERC
69 GTO-400/670/373/4Spd

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 30 Aug 2012 10:55:19 AM
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 30 Aug 2012 :  11:17:28 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I agree that it's not exactly a sports car that's why I was goin for a stock rebuild but if I could get 50 or so extra horsepower that would be cool with me. I ordered the 51-207-4 camshaft and cast pistons. It's my dads car and he doesn't want to go too crazy on it.

Was going to port/polish also. Is this sounding alright so far?
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
4324 Posts

Posted - 30 Aug 2012 :  11:26:47 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I disagree, the GP is basically a bigger A body if i recall, with better rear setup for launches (or was that just the ventura, b body, etc with the better rear linkage).

Anyway, doesn't weigh that much more than an Abody, and that weight can help plant the rear wheels. Even full size pontiacs were a force to fear at the dragway. Hell, even wagons are getting it done at the tracks.

Anyway, here's how I'D spend 5k on a "budget" motor:

2K: edelbrock d port heads, use stock springs, etc.
1.5K: block cleaning, new rods and pistons, cam shaft, etc.
500: used 455 block with good crank and bores
1K misc gaskets, maybe RA manifolds

5K can get you 500 budget HP. depends how you want to get there, wouldn't look stock when done that way at all.

Stockish with that budget and trying to hold back i'd go:

big valve heads or have yours converted, adjustable drive train and roller rockers, but if not those in the budget maybe roller tipped regular rockers. Maybe different pushrods depending how geometry goes after milling and/or decking.

keep your 389

bigger cam, maybe some rumpy to it but lots of vacuum and kind of tame (like the XE262 was in my 428). compression level would dictate if i went with a compression building newer grind or if i had compression, one of the stock replicas that cliff, sixt8bird and others run in 10:1+ iron headed builds

new rpm rods and pistons

ra manifolds+nice exhaust

maybe some milling and decking to get some compression

do your light light light port/decent polish (you don't want big airflow with small motor/cam and kill incoming air velocity)

If higher compression, convert to pertronix or other electronic ignition, and then have a custom curve done, and have the carb done by a pro to the specs of the car.

All that is done, i bet you have a solid 13's big car that is a baby on the street with tons of vacuum and not rowdy at all.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
4324 Posts

Posted - 30 Aug 2012 :  11:29:12 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
OK, i read now that early GP's were basically full sized pontiacs, so that baby can probably launch really well when put to the task.

Wasn't until '69 that they were bigger A-bodies.
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rskram
Cochise

265 Posts

Posted - 31 Aug 2012 :  12:34:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No you don't need to spend money on porting and polishing cuz with that small cam to me its a waste of time and money. Your engine builder may want you to so he can make more money tho. :) But I would port match and maybe go with some higher ratio rockers. If you do, remember to grind clearance for pushrods. Have you figured out what your static compression will be yet? Are you goin to zero deck it? I would and then dish your pistons if you have to so you keep compression manageable....if they have enough material in them. You may not be able to zero deck, idk.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
2499 Posts

Posted - 31 Aug 2012 :  12:53:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
50 HORSE POWER!! OMG!! WERE NOT IN KANSAS ANY MORE. LETS SEE IF WE CAN FIT A HOT BUG MOTOR IN THE TRUNK.


Bull Nose Formula, 461, R44TS, DEX/MERC
69 GTO-400/670/373/4Spd

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 31 Aug 2012 12:54:31 PM
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
2499 Posts

Posted - 01 Sep 2012 :  12:27:16 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK, I took a pill and I'm turning of the caps lock. IMO A good de-carbon and fresh valve job with new springs will make the car "more snappy". A light clean up in the bowls and runners would be helpfull(per Sixty8). The light upgrade melling torquer cam (Per B&P) will be smooth, reliable, and add power. Make sure the distributor mechanical and vacuum advance are in good shape. Check the one way sprag in the torque converter. Adding a good set of dual exhaust will help. I expect a 20 to 25 HP increase. Determine the rear axle ratio and see if an increase is needed. More gear, more leverage, quicker take off. I once had a 72 impala SB 2blr that would screem through the gears because of a great rear gear. FWIW thats what I would do.

Bull Nose Formula, 461, R44TS, DEX/MERC
69 GTO-400/670/373/4Spd
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Cornelius
Tribal Scout

16 Posts

Posted - 21 Dec 2012 :  7:41:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I finally finished putting it back together and started it up on Sunday. The motor idles a little rough so I looked around for a vacuum leak. I forgot to hook up a line from the transmission which I am assuming is a vacuum line, but I don't remember what it hooks up to. It comes up on the passenger side between the head and the firewall. It's a metal line that has a piece of rubber hose on it like a metal vacuum line slides into it from the intake/carb but I don't see an open port.

Any help? :)

Thanks, pictures to come!
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
4324 Posts

Posted - 21 Dec 2012 :  8:20:26 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
you can hook it to any manifold vacuum source, either a port on the manifold (likely won't be one small enough) or on the carb. Make sure it's not ported. You can T into one of your existing lines if you like, like the one to the distributor.
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