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 Bill Boyle's 79 TA Restoration Project--Part 1
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 17 Aug 2015 :  11:57:03 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 17 August 2015

I've made little progress, since my last post. My grand kids were here, plus their collie (4 in the house), then my brother had to leave town and I volunteered to take on his two pups, a 5 month Lab and 15 month Golden Retriever. My older dogs, the youngest turned 8 last week, handled things pretty well, however, my brother's pups are in need of obedience training and were a handful to keep in check. There was no fighting, no mean growling, just a lot of patience exhibited by my hounds trying to slow down the pups. The first 4 hours could be described as a 3-ringed circus. But, hey, everybody got along. The kids started school, my dogs are back to napping most of the day, and I'm finally back in the garage, me and the garage cat (wherever it's hiding).

Today all the paint was removed from the driver's side rear quarter and the trunk lid. Tomorrow, both will get the epoxy primer treatment. Then it will be on to stripping all the paint from the passenger side quarter panel etc.

So, there's the PS quarter panel, door and roof to strip yet.



"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 18 Aug 2015 :  1:37:14 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Got and early start this morning clearly out stuff once again to provide the room needed to apply epoxy. Housekeeping followed with an eye to minimize the amount of dust floating around in the garage. Fortunately epoxy is just a protective coating which will be lightly sanded later for primer filler or primer-surfacer.

Yesterday afternoon, a couple of hours were spent masking areas that didn't need epoxy on it. Masking is still a real chore. It takes time to get things just right. I need to look into some newer methods of doing this.

After getting everything in order, I asked my son Brian to take some photos of me using the spray gun. I had no idea the took over 400 digital picts. He should have hit the "video" button. I chose 5 to display--I didn't want to bore anyone with using paint stirrers or measuring cups and putting on and taking off my mask.

The first pict is right after completing all paint stripping of the quarter panel and trunk.



The next photo shows me hitting all the edges first to make certain they get enough on them.



Here, the trunk lid is receiving it's last pass of epoxy.



Quarter panel and trunk lid completed. It was dry to the touch in 20 minutes.



Here, Brian capture's me with a clean measuring cup--the one that was used to mix the 2:1 ratio. BTW, this is a fresh 3M respirator mask. The one previously used was discarded. These are throw aways.



After the epoxy dried, I could easily spot two ding locations on the panel that need some extra attention. A little body filler/ glaze and sanding will get rid of them.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 21 Aug 2015 :  2:01:35 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Friday 21 August 2015

Below is a photo of the bottom of the back seat of my passenger bucket seat. It's made of the same plastic as the sail panels and lower rear arm supports. All of these are breaking down--decomposing. I don't know what this plastic cover part is called, can't seem to find it anywhere in my catalogs (Ames, Classic). I need to get replacements....

Anyone have an idea what they are actually called and who, if anyone, has new ones for sale. Email me at bboyle@boyleworks.com. Thanks.




"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 21 Aug 2015 2:03:09 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 21 Aug 2015 :  2:09:29 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 21 August 2015 Just a quick note--

Interior parts removed on the passenger side to allow access to the 2 nuts retaining the wheel spoiler in place. Removed the spoiler and now have full access to strip remaining paint from passenger side rear quarter panel. I plan to hit it with epoxy next Tuesday morning then proceed with stripping the passenger door.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 21 Aug 2015 :  3:29:14 PM  Show Profile
Doing well Bill, real well!

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Sparafucile
Sitting Bull

158 Posts

Posted - 21 Aug 2015 :  8:11:26 PM  Show Profile
I am thinking of investing in a 3-D printer for those hard to find parts.

Spara
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 25 Aug 2015 :  2:19:37 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 25 August 2015 Not much to report.

Last night the rear wheel well and passenger side door jamb were masked off for epoxy primer in the morning. However, my plans were dashed because of the super high humidity. T-storms are expected this afternoon so I'll have to wait and see how the weather looks tomorrow morning. All I need is a 2 hour window....

Looking at my calendar, I want to have all the exterior body parts coated with epoxy before Halloween and all body parts coated with primer before December. The passenger door will be taken down next week and shot with epoxy. That will leave the roof to do in the following 5 weeks or so.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 25 Aug 2015 :  9:46:00 PM  Show Profile
Be looking for and A/C window unit. That should control the humidity.
You could be chillin like Bob Dylan.


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 26 Aug 2015 :  08:43:06 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Mark--I have a portable AC unit in place. When stripping paint the AC is shut down and the garage do is opened. Same goes for shooting the epoxy. So, as soon as the door is open there's no climate control. This is why humidity is such a factor. My compressor is near the garage door so it can pull in fresh air. Running the AC with the garage door down would also cause a bit of a lighting issue as well. With the door open there's plenty of light to see what's going on. I realize it's not an ideal situation...wish it were better...but this is what I'm dealing with.

This morning the epoxy will go on unless it rains. So far, so good.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 26 Aug 2015 :  2:21:42 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 26 August 2015 -- More epoxy protection....








"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Admin
Ye Olde Webmaster

844 Posts

Posted - 01 Sep 2015 :  09:13:16 AM  Show Profile
Update: Tuesday 1 September 2015

The mirror, door panel, handle and lock were removed, and paint stripping is underway on the passenger door.

Having removed the handle and lock on the driver's door recently, that experience helped me remove everything a bit faster this time.

Mark (B&P) I decided to try paint stripping with the AC on in the garage. In the past with the garage door open, outside temp and humidity were factors to deal with. I'm keeping the dust down by vacuuming every 5 minutes and that seems to be working out. I am far more comfortable too.



"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 04 Sep 2015 :  3:02:00 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 4 Sep 2015

This afternoon I completed removal of all paint from the passenger door. A little work on the panel is left to do and it will be ready for epoxy coating.

I can finally see the light at the end of the paint removal tunnel.


*********
While on a break, my son picks up the slack.



Yep, that's the "old man" back on the machine.



Done...no more paint...soon to be worked with a skim coat of body filler--Got to be straight you know!



Our newest family member--




"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 04 Sep 2015 8:15:49 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 08 Sep 2015 :  1:25:27 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 8 Sep 2015

Shot 2 coats of epoxy on the passenger door this morning. Removing paint from the roof is next on my agenda.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 23 Sep 2015 :  10:31:12 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 23 Sep 2015--Wrong fasteners again

Today I learned something, or at least confirmed, once again, the difficulties encountered in purchasing the correct parts for my 79 TA.

This morning the windshield reveal molding was removed. A few places along the roof and groove had a 3M silicone adhesive helping the clips hold the molding in place. This stuff was applied by me in 92-93 when the car was previously refinished. What was noticed as a difference between the retaining clips used for the windshield molding and the molding for the rear window was the back uses metal clips while the windshield uses plastic ones. There's more....

Months earlier a box of 50 metal clips were purchased to replace all the clips for the molding, front and rear. Today, I found out that the windshield studs that the clips mount to have a wider diameter neck than those used for the back window. When I discovered that, I tried the same metal clip on the rear window stud and discovered that they fit, but won't seat and dislodge with the slightest tug--not right. What does this mean? I purchased the wrong retaining clips for the car. This is very frustrating.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 23 Sep 2015 :  10:59:42 AM  Show Profile
Ugh!

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 23 Sep 2015 :  11:35:24 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage
Being able to get parts in a day or two has helped with restorations, but i feel it's added more frustration...you expect everything now! When i go to the parts store for something easy like a starter, i'm annoyed if they don't have it or if "we can have it by 1pm/tomorrow am."

Maybe we're just spoiled now, it's great that you can even GET some of these odds and ends repopped! I can't imagine doing the quality restorations that are done now on the high end in, say, the early 90's when a lot of these little things weren't new and you were sitting there refurbing little OEM pieces here and there.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 23 Sep 2015 :  2:47:56 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Well, I went back to my AU-VE-CO catalog and compared the old retainer clips to those illustrated as "actual" size in the book and found the correct nylon (not plastic as referenced in my previous post) for the windshield moldings and the correct metal clips for the rear moldings. They are both packaged, a 100 per box, enough for 7 or 8 Firebirds.

Efforts to locate these parts locally failed. Another Internet order will soon be placed.


+++++++

No other choices left--new order placed and they arrive in a few days. It's back to stripping old paint.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 23 Sep 2015 8:56:44 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 24 Sep 2015 :  4:42:38 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 24 Sep 2015

Well, I never got to stripping paint today but wound up spending hours working on the windshield moldings. "Time flies when you're having fun." Anyway, these 3 pieces of molding are in excellent shape but for the finish on them. So, all the black paint and primer was removed with a wire wheel and then cleaned with lacquer thinner and sanded with 220 grit paper. Two coats of primer were applied followed by two color coats of black followed by 3 coats of clear. These pieces sparkle.

The black paint is a Honda black from Dupli-Color and the clear was from Express Paints--it is gloss. No more matte finish as there's no UV protection with it. The clear from Express Paints contains a UV protective ingredient so it should last years longer than the matte styled finish. The rear window moldings will get the same treatment.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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bluebird
Cochise

USA
292 Posts

Posted - 26 Sep 2015 :  10:03:56 AM  Show Profile
Coming along good Bill! I found a good car cover and parking in the shade helps a long way in preserving things.

"Experience is the best teacher, unfortunately, it's the costliest!"
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 03 Oct 2015 :  09:16:55 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 3 Oct 2015

This morning the remaining square inches of paint were stripped from the roof of the car. All paint on metal has been removed. Oh happy day!

Because the car sits on jack stands, a short scaffold was built that provided enough height so all of the roof could be reached with the DeWalt. Unlike the hood, trunk and sides, the roof has little structural support so pressure and rpm on the machine was kept to less than 600 rpm (variable control). The abrasive disc cut best at very low rpm and doing so avoided the bounce of the machine at higher rpm and the flexing of the roof.

The roof is in excellent shape. No hidden rust anywhere, so that was a relief. There is a very tiny rusted spot on the lower part of the passenger side "A" pillar that was dug out. It's been treated with rust inhibitor and will be fixed with a little body filler.

What is left to do is to use a wire wheel in the grove where the molding studs are located and on the underside of the roof by each window.

My plan was to shoot the roof today, but I'm at least a day or two behind with my plan. Part of this is because the leaded area between the roof and quarter panel on the passenger side needs some reworking. (Torque from the 400 twisted the unibody and caused a minor crack between the roof and quarter panel.) I'll probably heat the area and rework the material a bit, and follow it with a little body filler to get things back into the right contour.

Once everything is satisfactory, the roof will be lightly sanded again followed by extensive housekeeping to clean up the car and the garage so epoxy primer can be applied to preserve the metal. Dust is my enemy.

Progress is slow. Lots to do yet.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 03 Oct 2015 :  8:24:42 PM  Show Profile
Had the same windshield clip problem with the GTO. Clips ordered from a Pontiac vendor were completely wrong and would not work. Quite frustrating to say the least. Luckily I had a top notch windshield installer who was able to track down the right stuff and came back another time to do the job.

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 03 Oct 2015 :  8:51:05 PM  Show Profile
Car is going to be brand new when done!

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 03 Oct 2015 :  10:19:55 PM  Show Profile
Agreed, looking great. Bill does nice work!

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 07 Oct 2015 :  09:02:00 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 7 Oct 2015

Stripping the paint off the roof was completed last week. Paint on the edges where the windshield and rear window molding reside and along the underside of the roof where top window weather stripping sits had to come off.

Since the rear window is not coming out (not being replaced) protecting it from getting scratched was a problem I needed to solve. Simply applying a few strips of masking tape on the glass, wasn't going to provide enough protection IMO, so I added a long strip of plastic atop the first strips of tape and then masked over that. The plastic used was from plastic corner bead used in home wall construction. Two strips were cut from one corner bead. The material is flexible and curves nicely on the rear window.

With the glass protected, a small wire wheel attached to my variable drill was used. Rotating the wheel counter-clockwise removed the paint easily. It was followed with light sanding to get the edges clean and the metal more uniform.

The tiny rusted spot at the bottom of the 'A' pillar passenger side was also repaired.

The crack that revealed itself on the roof to rear quarter panel (from engine torque twisting the uni-body) was next to fix. This area has some of the leaded-type material used by the factory. Some of it was removed and some new material added. This was tricky as I dug deep toward the spot welds that hold the panels together. This was done in hopes of getting the fissure line and rebuilding it with Super Alloy #1. I didn't think that a fix would be a fix by applying body filler to the area. It might look good cosmetically for a while but was a real repair. The repair needed to be sound structurally and the Super Alloy #1 from Muggyweld should work.

With torch in hand the area was heated and a small amount of Super Alloy #1 melted into the cavity I had made. Once it filled to the top it was allowed to cool and then it was ground down below the sheet metal surface. This was all cleaned up and body filler was mixed and applied to the entire area.

After drying over night, the body filler was sanded this morning. A second coat with glazing putty was applied afterwards. (The glazing putty is added to make the filler more spreadable.) As I type this, that mixture is curing. It will be sanded down again to get the best, and smoothest contour. Glazing putty may be needed to get it really good.

When I get around to it I'll post a few photos.

Back to the garage.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 08 Oct 2015 :  2:55:33 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
The first photo below--All clear and color coats are off leaving substrates to cut through to bare metal. For me removing all the paint from the roof was the most time consuming. As mentioned in an earlier post reaching over the roof doesn't allow much pressure to be exerted on it. The roof is also flexible and the machine needed to be run very slowly to cut or it would gyrate and bounce. Lesson learned here--go slow.



The next photo, I'm working on the passenger side of the car where the leaded-type material between the roof and quarter panel needs to be repaired.



In this photo the roof is down to bare metal and I'm start to clean up the edges. Note the vinyl corner bead attached to the window with tape to protect the glass from getting scratched.



The wire wheel does a good job but final clean up is done with sandpaper to get the edges smooth and clean.



Here is the passenger side, where the fissure (crack) need to be repaired. Body filler alone would only provide temporary cosmetic look, getting on it once or twice, the crack would come back unless more metal was melted into the fissure--so that's what was done. The red line is where the fissure was located.



This last photo shows several applications of body filler and glazing putty to get the roof and quarter panel on the same "plane" again after grind things down etc. This is now at a point where it's ready for a coating of epoxy to protect the metal from flash rust.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 09 Oct 2015 8:20:29 PM
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 08 Oct 2015 :  8:38:57 PM  Show Profile
Good job, very patient and using the right tools always helps.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Brian R
Crazy Horse

USA
1672 Posts

Posted - 09 Oct 2015 :  10:07:40 AM  Show Profile
Bill - just curious. Would heavy duty sub-frame connectors stiffen the body up enough to prevent future stress cracks? I have no idea, just curious.

Beautiful work BTW !
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 Oct 2015 :  4:13:21 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Brian, I believe auto crossing events were the real cause of the crack, not drag strip passes. Auto crossing put more stress on the suspension than going through the gears in a straight line.

So, I do believe subframe connectors would have helped keep the body more rigid and the crack may not have happened. Since, I don't plan on participating in auto crossing anymore, and the likelihood of me running at the strip is pretty low after this resto, the need for subframe connectors is pretty low. However, that doesn't mean I won't do it.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 09 Oct 2015 8:21:48 PM
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2015 :  05:17:59 AM  Show Profile
Wow, lots of progress when I'm absent a few days! Btw mine cracked in the same place and has been fixed a few times over the years. It cracks again each time after awhile and this time I have left it alone and noticed it stops at a certain point. I'll be interested in how your repair holds up as I believe mine was not done properly at the body shop.

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2015 :  1:56:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage
I guess, if it cracks again, only thing you can do is put duct tape over it ;)
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2015 :  08:49:17 AM  Show Profile
All that low end Pontiac torque, I've seen this a lot on Firebirds but not on Camaros for some reason.

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2015 :  11:07:09 AM  Show Profile
My bird has the same crack both sides. Born with a smog motor, don't think the torque is the issue. Cutting the body at an obtuse angle vs. the arch of an A-body could be the difference.

Note/ Had a full size Bronco with the same cracks.


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2015 :  2:11:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Let's see some picts of those cracks. Are they in the same location on each or something different? Perhaps it's a manufacturing defect and not related to twisting of the body under hard acceleration.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2015 :  8:31:24 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 11 Oct 2015

It took me forever to do housekeeping in the garage which was a prerequisite to masking and taping the car so the roof would be ready for epoxy. The day got away from me...so tomorrow, if things go smoothly on other things going on, I'll shoot the roof.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 12 Oct 2015 :  5:27:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 12 October 2015-- Columbus Day.

Plans to shoot epoxy in the morning fell through so, I decided to give it a shot (pun intended) in the afternoon. Temperature was a little hotter than usual and didn't think it would effect anything, however, it did effect the flow of epoxy and how it laid down on the roof. I'm not concerned about the appearance as it will all get lightly sanded before the first coat of primer-surfacer is applied. All the sheet metal is coated with epoxy.



The plastic front and rear bumpers and spoiler parts are next to tackle-- strip 'em and apply primer with flex additive.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 13 Oct 2015 08:38:41 AM
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Brian R
Crazy Horse

USA
1672 Posts

Posted - 13 Oct 2015 :  10:43:57 AM  Show Profile
Nice - You are getting there Bill!!!
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 16 Oct 2015 :  11:15:20 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Another Update: 16 October 2015

I've begun working on plastic parts. The urethane rear bumper cover is on the work surface and it too requires the stripping of all previous applied acrylic lacquer paint. The front and rear bumper covers were not previously taken down to the raw plastic but prepped with sealer and coated with primers for the acrylic lacquer finish that I applied in 92-93.

This time all of that has to go as the bc/cc urethane paint is not compatible with lacquer.

After removing the license plate lamp bracket (which I cracked and now need to replace) I noticed small fractures in the bumper cover on the under side. There are two rectangular notches and there are breaks on each corner. I could probably let this slide as nobody would know these exist, but you know me--I can't let it go--gotta fix it.




The top of the bumper cover also has an issue. In fact, there was a small circular crater, probably a mold defect from the factory that existed for years until it was corrected by me in 92-93. This defect in the urethane needs to be filled again. However, this time I'm going to use a 3M product Automix # 05833. It's a two-part epoxy that is a filler and adhesive. This product will be used to fill this little crater and also repair the fractures on the underside. There's a process to do this and I will show that when it's time to publish what I've done.





In the mean time, I'll be carefully stripping the old finish off the flexible rear bumper cover.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 16 Oct 2015 11:16:01 AM
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Admin
Ye Olde Webmaster

844 Posts

Posted - 17 Oct 2015 :  08:59:15 AM  Show Profile
Part 2 of this thread continues with the progress on my restoration. This is the last entry on Part 1 and is now closed.

Go to : http://psp.aquacomp.net/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10088

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

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