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 Bill Boyle's 79 TA Restoration Project--Part 1
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 24 Apr 2015 :  5:26:50 PM  Show Profile
Blessings and good wishes!

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 26 Apr 2015 :  6:14:39 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Well Saturday didn't go as planned so I did a little more prep work.

The first picture is of me in front of the hood after putting on a 4:1 ratio of white vinegar to 1 part of water. It was applied with a sponge and let sit for about an hour when this photo was taken. The "vinegar water" attacks any surface rust as well as anything deeper--e.g. the pitting of the sheet metal under where the decal resided.



The next photo shows one side cleaned up with clean tap water. Note the outline of the old bird decal. You can see it because the pits are now black or dark gray. The vinegar water did it's job.



The "action photo" shows me cleaning up the other side of the hood. I'm using a Scotch Pad (green) with water and light scrubbing removes the vinegar water leaving a fresh and clean metal surface. I used my wife's paper towels to mop up the wet mess. (The quicker picker upper ) The hood was left to dry and because it rained Saturday afternoon, shooting the hood was left for Sunday morning.



The stand was moved in front of the garage with the hood on it and the hood was given the once over to ensure it was clean for the epoxy coating. After my new Devilbiss gun was clean and operational, a 2:1 ratio of Axalta's epoxy primer was created and strained into the gun. Since my brother came over to help me check out the new spray gun, he shot half of the hood and I shot the other half. That took all of 3 minutes. A second coat was applied about 20 minutes later. In this photo you can really see the outline of the old BIRD.



Here's what the hood looked like after the first coat of epoxy primer....



Here it is after the second coat...all done. The metal is protected and more body work will follow (filler primer, block sanding etc).



There was some epoxy primer left in the gun, however, the fender was not quite ready for the material. Also, humidity was rising and some condensation was reaching my gun despite having the requisite filter in place. Rather than to press the life of the epoxy and screw things up, the epoxy was discarded and my equipment was cleaned up for the next time. That took 40 minutes...

Because of the condensation, I ordered a couple of in-line desiccant filters that will attach between the hose and gun to catch condensation that passes the bigger filter. The fender will be done once filters are available.

BTW, the outside temperature today reached 95 degrees F. Is it August already?

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 26 Apr 2015 8:25:40 PM
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 26 Apr 2015 :  7:54:49 PM  Show Profile
Looks like a productive day Bill. Unfortunately it didn't get above 55 today so I couldn't work on anything. I have a lot of cleaning and painting to do with interior parts still.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2015 :  10:45:14 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: Tuesday 28 April 2015

I re-prepped the passenger side fender and masked everything that didn't need to be coated. Set up the epoxy mix and put two coats on. Fortunately this stuff dries quickly as my neighbor's grass cutting crew arrived 10 minutes after shooting the 2nd coat. The fender was already dry to the touch so there was no risk of contamination. If they had arrived 15 minutes earlier that would have been a problem.

++++++++++

Next up is the driver's side fender. All the finish needs to come off, and whatever rust is discovered will be treated and repaired. Then it too will also get the epoxy primer treatment. With the hood and fenders protected I have to sort out what should be next. Should I continue removing finish off the car with these parts off it or prime them with primer filler and then put them back on the car? Having limited space to work causes different routines and tasks take longer to complete. The logical progression of things can also become quite skewed because of space limitations. Clearly, this is no way to run a paint shop....


++++++++++

Hey Phil--I'm on a roll now.

I was looking at Rich Keller's project and noting all the parts he has placed around his home in order to have room to work in his garage. It makes me shake my head. With my limited work area, it's a constant thing moving around stuff in the garage. Yesterday, the newly coated hood was carefully placed on the roof of the car (blankets and towels under it, and a moving pad on top of it to keep sanding debris and just plain old dust off of it. It's in safe position. Puzzled as to where to safely store the fender coated this morning, my son helped me move more things around to provide a little more work space that will limit the amount of times I need to walk past the fender. It is also wrapped in a protective pad. When my wife came into the garage she suggested putting the fender on the bed in our guest bedroom. I laughed and said, "with a pillow and blanket." (It's not going in there--but the door is open, so to speak.)

The driver's side fender is now perched on the body shop horse and will be stripped of paint this week. As soon as all the old finish is off off, it will be shot with epoxy primer (weather permitting). It's not going to sit for days in bare metal this time. Too much labor involved prepping the metal for epoxy when it sits and sits.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 28 Apr 2015 4:17:08 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2015 :  7:20:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Here are a 5 more progress photos--all taken this morning...before it rained.

The interior side of the fender was in great shape and was only cleaned up. At the factory, these parts were dipped with a protective coating. There was no reason to strip this coating off to replace it with epoxy. So, the interior was protected from overspray with masking. BTW, masking took 30 minutes while spraying took only a few minutes at best. A good HVLP gun lays down the material really well.




This section of the hood has the original finish on it from the factory. For those with a good eye, note that one small section is black rather than the exterior's Nocturne Blue. I didn't strip off all the paint on this section because it was a water borne application and should not undermine subsequent 2k primer, sealer or color coats.



The fender took less than one minute to completely coat. This is the first coat, it was followed with a second 10 minutes later.



Below is a close up of one of the areas I worked to eliminate some pitting. The bad taping was an unfortunate mis-step. OOOPS. Not a big deal--fixed on the 2nd coat. Primer filler will follow and all evidence of any problem will be gone.



Here is another close up of a pitted area that was fixed. It's all coming together.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 28 Apr 2015 7:22:25 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 06 May 2015 :  10:28:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 6 May 2015

The driver's side fender is receiving minor body work to repair rusted areas atop the interior part of the fender. Over the years, rainwater accumulated near or around the weld points and eventually broke down some of the surrounding sheet metal. No through holes or bad welds just replacing lost metal for cosmetic purposes. Most were fixed using either Super Alloy 1, or JB Weld.

I used a Dremel to shape and remove excess material and 80 and 120 grit sand paper to smooth things out.

Once all of the body work is performed, I'll take the exterior side of the fender down to bare metal and shoot it with epoxy primer. Again the inside of the fender is in pretty good shape so just a good cleaning is all that's needed.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 07 May 2015 :  2:15:24 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Here are several more body work progress photos--

On the stand for some photos--

















There are a number of areas to repair before the old paint is removed. Fix it first.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 May 2015 :  09:49:52 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 9 May 2015

During the past two days, I've been repairing the rusted areas shown in the above photos. As it turns out, many things were used to attack the rust and to deal with the lost metal. In some areas I used a small piece of thin aluminum that was attached as a backing plate so the Super Alloy 1 would not drop down to the floor. The backing plates were attached to the inner steel part of he fender with a 1/8" rivet. This was done in two places. Using it provided the "stop" needed so alloy could fill the space. It worked like a charm. When contouring or shaping was needed, I choose JB weld. I used the quick set product so I could work on it the same day. My Dremel was used to get the contours right. Once everything was filled and ground flush to the sheet metal, imperfections were dealt with using a skim coat of body filler, or putty. Within 20 minutes, it was sanded and added to if necessary and re-sanded. This process was time consuming yet it turned out like there was never any rust.

Once all of this was to my satisfaction, out came the Dewalt and the fender was stripped down to bare metal. My son Brian jumped in to help me, so it was done in a couple of hours. Once down to bare metal, the fender received a 4:1 vinegar "bath" and sits on the stand with a golden orange cast right now. This coating will be washed off with clean water an hour or so before the fender receives epoxy primer.

There are a few more areas that need my attention including the wheel well lip before I get it ready for epoxy primer. Maybe Monday of next week....

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 09 May 2015 :  12:31:44 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage
You are making great progress, with great attention to detail. You may well end up with a car so nice that you'll want to just look at it instead of driving it!
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 May 2015 :  4:21:18 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
It's too big to fit on the mantle. I'll drive it.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 09 May 2015 :  8:50:44 PM  Show Profile
hehehehe, good for you!

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 15 May 2015 :  3:58:50 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Progress update: 15 May 2015

It's been a long week. The week in photos.


















This isn't me...I captured my son, giving me a hand on stripping the fender.

















After the 2nd coat of epoxy, I could see two (2) small dings in the fender. Otherwise, it's quite straight. Those ding areas will be repaired when the filler primer is applied. Until then, all I need to do is keep it safely stored inside the garage so nothing happens to it. Except for the plastic bumpers, everything else will be worked on the car except for the trunk lid.

More to come as work continues.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 15 May 2015 :  9:04:46 PM  Show Profile
You go! Lookin real good Bill, real good.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 20 May 2015 :  10:22:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
I have found by attending numerous car shows that the color and sheen on a car's inner fenders, the part visible from the engine bay when the hood is up, is very important to many judges. This is true when the judges are looking at vehicles supposed to be similar to the factory--not custom, or altered.

Constantly fighting the factory versus what I like thing, considerable time was spent looking for a semi-gloss paint that would give me that factory look. A while back I settled on Duplicolor's DA 1603 semi-gloss acrylic enamel to apply on the inner fenders of the TA. While Kyrlon's semi-flat is close, especially good on the chassis and other under hood parts, the spray can nozzle provides a narrow fan unlike what you'd see with a spray gun. Overlapping with Krylon nozzles--is not too good IMO, and coverage often leaves streaks. . Also, the Krylon semi-flat is acrylic lacquer. The Duplicolor I chose was acrylic enamel. For those of you thinking about similar painting tasks, here are a few differences between acrylic enamel and acrylic lacquer. These are things you should know before you buy.

Lacquer can be recoated over and over. Enamel takes longer to dry but is harder. There is a short window for applying a second coat. There is also a waiting period before you can repaint if the window is missed--maybe days later. Re-coating after the window is missed requires light scoffing of the surface. Lacquer can be damaged more readily than enamel, but can be recoated and repaired easier and faster. Dry time is fast. Enamel may dry to the touch but takes a long time to cure. Lacquer can be applied over enamel, but enamel can't be applied over lacquer without a conflict in the chemicals.

The reason I chose Duplicolor's' acrylic enamel DA1603 was based on the sheen, and the heartier surface.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 20 May 2015 :  11:21:52 AM  Show Profile
Mike and I were discussing this last week and he indicated a Satin Black will resemble the original a bit more than gloss or semi-gloss. I painted one of my inner fenders with a gloss black and it just didn't look right. I'm going to buy a couple different cans and see what I like. Lets see some pics when you do one of yours. I'm very curious to see it.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 20 May 2015 :  12:40:32 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Rich--I've order the paint and it should arrive in a few days so I can complete the painting of the inner fenders. Will take picts and post them...stay tuned/.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 20 May 2015 :  2:02:32 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage
"60%" semi gloss black is generally considered correct. I found most semigloss blacks are close enough. For toughness and better spraying, as bill mentioned, i used duponts AE on the truck and was pleased.
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70 bird
Tribal Scout

19 Posts

Posted - 27 May 2015 :  8:37:44 PM  Show Profile
Looks good Bill!!
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 29 May 2015 :  11:43:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Hey Rich, below are a couple of photos of the inner fender (driver's side) that was painted this morning at 7:15 am in the cool air--71F. What you see is two coats. [ The second coat caught a flying bug who ventured too closely. A small part of him or her will be part of the TA for who knows how long. ]

This is semi-gloss acrylic enamel from Dupli-color. I ordered several spray cans from an Internet vendor and it took 7 days to arrive. (It felt like an eternity. ) The long 3-day Memorial Day Weekend probably slowed things down.


+++++++++
1 Jun 2015

I realized today that the previous photos taken and displayed were not very good photos. So, with a clear, sunny Florida sky this morning, a few more pictures were taken. These are far better and more representative of what I actually see. A cloudy day didn't do the Dupli-color DA 1603 justice, so I removed those poor photos and replaced them with these.








"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 01 Jun 2015 11:19:33 AM
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 29 May 2015 :  11:59:32 AM  Show Profile
That's the look, very nice! E-mail me your link to the product.

----------------------------

After the photo's were replaced I'm convinced that is the color I'm going for, thanks my Floridian friend

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY

Edited by - rkellerjr on 01 Jun 2015 3:49:04 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 03 Jun 2015 :  08:49:29 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: Wednesday 3 June 2015

I don't mind revealing my mistakes, or pointing our flaws...we all make mistakes and seldom is anything perfect. When I took photos of the inner fender on that cloudy day and saw how poorly my photography was after posting the photos, I thought it was the settings on the camera or a fingerprint on the lens. Nope. It was simply poor lighting, so pictures were taken on a sunny day. What a difference good lighting makes!

The passenger side inner fender is being reworked right now as there are far too many light scratches on it to suit me. I can't have one top side looking great and the other just so-so. A little light sanding, a little primer filler (which I ran out of--never fails) and it can be re-sprayed with a few coats of Dupli-Color DA 1603 acrylic enamel.

I'll post a couple of photos of both inner fenders when they are finished.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 03 Jun 2015 08:50:03 AM
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Merrik66
Cochise

USA
370 Posts

Posted - 04 Jun 2015 :  01:26:04 AM  Show Profile
Really looking great. I know it's tough to tell from Picts on digital devices but it really does look like you've got the sheen nailed. The effort is showing good results.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 04 Jun 2015 :  09:05:49 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Thanks, Adam.

Last night I gave the re-worked passenger side inner fender one final coat of primer so it would be ready for paint in the morning. Here's what it looked like on the stand just before painting it with the black acrylic enamel.



Below is the final product... two lights coats plus a final medium wet coat. Photo was taken 30 minutes after the last coat.



"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 22 Jun 2015 :  09:27:49 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 22 June 2015.

Early this month I pinched a nerve in my lower back. It has been debilitating and I've been unable to work on the car or do anything physical. I'm hoping to resume work on the car in August. Until then, I'm taking it easy.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 22 Jun 2015 09:28:27 AM
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Brian R
Crazy Horse

USA
1672 Posts

Posted - 24 Jun 2015 :  12:01:48 PM  Show Profile
Sorry to hear that Bill. Best of luck to you.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 25 Jun 2015 :  09:11:13 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 25 June 2015

Thanks Brian.

Being inactive, knowing how much needs to be done, has been difficult for me and I've had way too much idle time to think about this project. Yesterday, my back was aching so I decided to spend some time in the garage, on my feet, putting tools back in their place and tidying up a bit to prep for more work.

Today, my back seems to be pain free. Maybe doing something physical helped.

Anyway, what I plan on doing soon is to remove the door handle, lock and window weather stripping from the driver's door. That will be done in preparation for the stripping of paint off of it --to do some other day--when my back is about 100%.

I'm day by day now, I think.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 25 Jun 2015 :  09:15:55 AM  Show Profile
Glad to hear you are at least mobile

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Merrik66
Cochise

USA
370 Posts

Posted - 26 Jun 2015 :  02:55:40 AM  Show Profile
Hey bill, I'm seeing the same situation on my 63' with the shallow rust pitting in a few spots...tailpanel pinchpoint and some lower fender locations. But, Not in stress point areas. When you used that super alloy did you heat the surrounding metal with a propane torch?, mapp? Or other. Also, did you use one of the temp guns to check for that 350 melting point? I really like the idea of what you did there. Looking forward to more posts and we are so grateful for your documentation of this process. Your helping those of us who may embark on the task you've undertaken. Hope your back is coming around.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 26 Jun 2015 :  11:36:20 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Had lighting issues in the garage this morning...fluorescent tubes wouldn't light so had to tackle that but back felt a bit funny after that so work on the car is on hold a little longer.

On the Super Alloy One--

I didn't use a heat sensor to detect the melting point. It is hit and miss using this stuff until you get experience with it. On occasion the sheet metal was over heated, Using MAPP gas, you have to avoid concentrating the flame but work around it in a circular motion several inches from the repair area. The company has a video that is helpful, it gives you the right information, more or less, but technique will vary depending on the metal being repaired, whether curved, flat, and if there's a backing plate to help fill the hole. The stuff grinds off nicely and can be sanded. Body filler is a must though just as if you were using brazing rods or welding. Body filler is for finish work to get it truly smooth and flat.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 27 Jun 2015 09:11:00 AM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 27 Jun 2015 :  09:10:24 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: Saturday 27 June 2015

Up early and tackled the driver's door. Removed the door handle and the door lock.

How I did it--

1. Released the bottom door side glass stop so window would drop to lowest point with glides and scissors mechanism still in place. Note: Location of bolt was marked to return it to original location.

2. Removed two nuts on door handle and released the clip to the arm that operates the door latch. The clip was gently pried open with a small screw driver. Unit, less arm, was removed, bagged and tagged.

3. To remove the door lock, the large U-clip that holds the unit must be pushed to free up the lock-tumbler unit. Unless you have small hands, there is no room get down passed the glass to reach and try to dislodge the clip. This is what I encountered. So, a little more working room was needed. All the top glass stops on the door were marked for current location as well as the top bracket that holds the scissors mechanism firmly in place, there are two, front and rear. Returning the mechanism and glass to the original points including the glass stops is critical so the window's up and down operates smoothly without scratching the glass. Once all bolt locations were marked they were backed off to permit the window, which is DOWN, to be move closer to the inside of the car thus allowing a tad more room for hands to work and tools to be used.

4. The U-clip barely needed to be moved, but it's been in place for over 3 decades. My hand still did not have enough room to properly grasp the clip and there was still no room for my hand to move to dislodge the clip. So, I believed that it could be pried off with a large and long flat screw driver. I was right and dislodge the clip. This was placed in the same bag with the handle and tagged.

The reason the locking unit was removed is to replace the old gasket that was original to the car. The gasket fits on the outside of the car and seals it to the body when the clip on the inside of the door is installed. The tight fit prevents water/dirt etc from getting inside the door body.

I should also mention that the door felt-rubber seal was removed too. While it is in good condition and could be reused, it isn't show class anymore. (They've held up pretty well considering the South Florida climate.)

Based on my experience removing the U-clip from the lock, it may be a real chore to get it back on later. I may have to ask my wife to slink her smaller hand in there to clip it back on. More on that....

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 30 Jun 2015 :  10:27:54 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
In the recent past, you'd open the door, look down and see this--



Another view from under the door. Sheet metal...gone. Not good. This had to be fixed!




"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 30 Jun 2015 :  10:31:08 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 30 June 2015

More rust repair

Yesterday, the inside rear corner of the driver's door was repaired. Over the years water, moisture, probably some snow too, enabled rust to eat away part of the lower body of the door. Nothing effected the door skin, just the frame. Here's what I did.

The rusty areas were cleaned up with a wire brush and grinder. All "peninsular" type rusted areas where trimmed back then the remaining metal was treated with a rust dissolver, cleaned off with water and protected with 2 coats of primer.

After that was done, I began rummaging through my scrap metal box that contains, brass, bronze, SS, sheet metal and aluminum. I used a 12" piece of aluminum strap to form the "spine" that would be shaped to match the round contour of the door that had been eaten away. This "spine" would be fastened in two places and provide support for the sheet metal that would be the new skin filling the void.

Once the "spine" was fastened, shaping the sheet metal and bending it to emulate the contour took the most time. Once I was satisfied with the shape, the sheet metal was riveted to the door at strategic points. To finish this will require some body filler and glaze to make it just right. That will be a little extra work.

The whole repair, thus far, took about 5 hours. When the door is repainted, the repair will go pretty much unnoticed, so I'm happy with how it came out. It should be good for a long time.

++++++

Paint stripping on the door has begun. It should take 2-3 hours, but I'll break my work time up because my lower back is still on the mend. From all outward appearances, this door is straight--no dings to repair.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 30 Jun 2015 1:47:39 PM
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rad400
War Paint

USA
1251 Posts

Posted - 30 Jun 2015 :  2:42:23 PM  Show Profile
Looking good Bill.

Conrad
79 Trans Am 400 auto Crower 60210 Torker II Holley 750 vac sec. #12 heads,3500 stall.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 01 Jul 2015 :  1:46:44 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Thanks Conrad.

Below is a photo taken today of the repair made to the bottom of the door. It's ready for blue paint now. To get it looking like this, some body filler and glazing putty were used to fill in imperfections and to hide rivets fastening the sheet metal to the spine.

Once the door is re-painted...the repair will not be noticeable. The original rubber seals on the both doors will be replaced along with new door panels etc.




"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 06 Jul 2015 :  09:31:22 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 6 July 2015

"How soon we forget" applies to me.

I made a brief comment in an earlier post how straight the driver's door was...and exuded great pleasure over that fact. However, my pleasure soured while stripping off all the paint last week.. That straightness was no accident. When I refinished the car in the early '90s, that door was made straight as an arrow. Now, I'm doing it all over again.

Once it's mostly straight, I'll shoot the door with epoxy primer. More filler will be used later on to get it "perfect."

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 Jul 2015 :  11:15:38 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
With the driver's door down to bare metal, I've spent time "straightening" the door panel (again). Aside from the typical parking lot dings (there were a few) much of the door had to be reworked. Somewhere along the line, someone leaned their body (butt?) into the door. Running a straight edge horizontally and vertically I can make out a shape--so that is almost corrected.

What I've learned using the Eastwood body filler is that very little hardener is needed. Working time is very short and I've experimented adding glazing putty to the filler so it's more spreadable. On one occasion this week my blend was no good. Typically 20 minutes after application and it's ready for sanding. When the "blend" wasn't hard in 35 minutes, out came the rotary sander to remove the bad blend.

The temperature in my garage and probably the humidity have something to do with the curing time. Yet I know it's mostly a chemical reaction going on that makes the filler hard so it can be sanded. It seems the hotter the garage the faster you have to work with this stuff. It may be different in other conditions...I just don't know, but I'd bet it is.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 09 Jul 2015 11:17:59 AM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 13 Jul 2015 :  11:49:33 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 13 July 2014

Here are four photos taken during my work on the driver's door. The first photo is the door as it appeared before any work was done. It was a shame the finish on it could not be saved....









Tomorrow morning the door will be coated with epoxy primer.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 13 Jul 2015 11:51:26 AM
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 13 Jul 2015 :  12:52:12 PM  Show Profile
Good work buddy

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 14 Jul 2015 :  10:29:59 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
This morning the door received two coats of epoxy primer. The bare metal is protected and can sit as I move on to the rear quarter panel.

The epoxy leaves a hard semi-flat finish over metal; over body filler it comes out flat--easy to spot.






So now it's on to the quarter panel and trunk lid--a lot more paint stripping ahead.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 14 Jul 2015 :  12:34:58 PM  Show Profile
Keep working it big guy


Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 14 Jul 2015 :  3:36:45 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Ha, ha, ha...I know that guy...wish he'd getting cracking.

Took this before photo of the driver's rear quarter panel. Moments before the photo, the spoiler was removed from the trunk. It's fiberglass, as most of you know, and it too needs to be stripped of all existing lacquer finish. That will be done chemically as will as the front and rear bumper covers and other "plastic" parts....the side light and the faded out rear black window molding needs to come off too. I'm curious to see how the rim around the rear window faired. Rust or no rust? I'm hoping the later.



Stripping paint starts again tomorrow.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 19 Jul 2015 :  4:42:33 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Well, I've been removing the bc/cc and a couple of substrates from the driver's rear quarter panel leaving some primer in place to protect the body until I'm ready to take it to bare metal. It kind of has a camo look to it right now...my son Brian got a kick out of that and said why not just clear coat it. A TA in battle dress...different..but not for me.

The rear wheel spoiler had to be removed. Having done this before, I knew there were two cap screws that needed to come off and accessing them was through the inside of the car where the back seat "arm rest" plastic is located. While sitting in the back seat I got to take a good look at the interior.

The camel colored carpet is bleached out and the true color exists only under the back seat floor mats. Looking at the arm rest, which is made of plastic, there are scrapes on it revealing decomposing plastic. Plastic window trim moulding along the roof is beginning to go south and is decomposing. The sail panels are already falling apart. It also appears that the package tray that I previously installed 22+ years ago needs to be replaced again.

The rear seat is a three part arrangement. The seats are still in good shape--hardly used--they are soft. The rear back, however, especially the area on the top near the package tray, is very brittle--it's a goner.

The headliner cardboard is hopelessly warped and will be replaced too. Lots of
parts to order

I have to take a deep breath when I reach for my wallet.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 20 Jul 2015 :  11:23:13 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: Monday 20 July 2015

Removing the rear bumper cover.

Getting the bumper cover off requires removing the bumper assembly from the car. There are 8 carriage bolts with heavy washers and hex nuts (11/16 socket) and 4 studs with cap screws (7/16 socket) that must be removed. In addition, it's best to remove the rear light housings, left and right, disconnecting the bulb sets from the casing including the license plate connector.

With all the retaining fasteners off, the entire bumper assembly can be detached from the body. Keep at least 2 top nuts in place on the carriage bolts so the bumper doesn't crash to the ground, or worse yet on your noodle.

The plastic bumper cover is held on to the steel horizontal frame of the bumper with plastic retainers. They are the push through type with a drive pin in the middle. I had hoped to salvage these and use them again, but each one was brittle and broke off. ( It never fails. Another part to find.)

My son Brian helped me with this and that saved a bunch of time.

That's it for today. On to removing coconuts from our trees. (Had Isaac Newton sat under a coconut tree...he wouldn't have remembered anything for days. )



"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rad400
War Paint

USA
1251 Posts

Posted - 20 Jul 2015 :  1:45:36 PM  Show Profile
good info on rear bumper removal

Conrad
79 Trans Am 400 auto Crower 60210 Torker II Holley 750 vac sec. #12 heads,3500 stall.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 21 Jul 2015 :  1:59:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Another head smacker! UGH!

The rear bumper filler--the waffle stuff between the cover and steel frame-is made of plastic. It was designed to provide shape to the bumper cover and help soften impact. The operative word is "plastic." Like so many other plastic items on my TA that are either decomposing or becoming brittle, the "filler" is becoming brittle. It would fragment into hundreds of pieces and not do me any good if struck from the rear. Moreover, the bumper cover would not be supported by anything in a couple of years. It's on its way out!

Today, the filler was removed from the frame so the frame could be cleaned up and repainted. When that was done, I grabbed the filler and a piece of plastic broke off in my hand. Looking closer, I saw fractures and cracks in many spots. This old piece isn't going to cut it. Now I have to hunt down a better used OEM from a newer donor Firebird living in a cooler climate. (The intense Florida Sun devastates plastic).

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 23 Jul 2015 :  10:17:57 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 23 July 2015

Progress photos--

This first photo was shot earlier this month marking the beginning of the paint removal on the driver's rear quarter panel (and trunk). Rather than to take all the paint off, I decided to leave substrates on to protect the paint until I was read to take it down to metal. Reason: Humidity is so high now that I didn't want the panel rusting. I also learned that stripping this substrate off the car was easy and fast and that it could be done in little time allowing a short window from bare metal to epoxy coating.



The second photo shows further progress. Trim around the rear window is off, so is the rear wheel spoiler, rear deck spoiler and of course the rear lights and bumper.

My son thought it interesting that I left these substrates in place--a nice camo look! Anything to jerk my chain....



The last photo is an early morning photo of me taken by my very understanding wife.



What I will probably do is continue on to the passenger side rear quarter panel removing the top coats and then proceed to take it all down to bare metal. This will be followed with epoxy primer.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 23 Jul 2015 :  11:37:52 AM  Show Profile
Holy crap! P R O G R E S S ! Like the overall bibs too, Bill. You're working like a true craftsman.

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 23 Jul 2015 :  2:18:27 PM  Show Profile
So what's the name of your restoration company?

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 23 Jul 2015 :  4:16:51 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
How about Dust R US.

+++++++
Pieces-parts: Ordered exact push-pin retainers for the front and rear bumper covers. Also found an Ebay seller with a good rear bumper filler from an 81 FB. I'm in luck as its from Michigan--much cooler weather up there than here. I should get another 20 years out of it.

For those of you attempting a similar project, be aware that the AU-VE-CO (Automobile-Vehicle Parts CO.) parts catalog is a must have. The huge catalog contains specialty fasteners, clips, nuts, screw etc for cars. The company has been around since 1916, nearly 100 years.

Between the Internet and this catalog, hunting down the exact parts or replacement parts is very possible.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 28 Jul 2015 :  11:30:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: Tuesday 28 July 2015

The fastener and clips ordered the other day arrived as well as the bumper filler. The plastic bumper filler is identical to the one it's replacing with correct part number. It appears to have been manufactured a month after mine in 1979. It came off of an 81 FB according to the seller. However, the condition of it is "like" new so I'm very pleased with it and installed it on the steel bumper brace.

For those of you unfamiliar with this piece, it has tangs that fit into the steel bumper brace to locate it. These tangs do nothing to hold it in place and often break off. With my old one, I added two bolts to secure it in place on the steel brace. The same with was done with the replacement. Now it stays securely in place without the bumper cover installed.

I'm working on the passenger side quarter panel. As with the driver's door, there's some body filler previously applied to get that panel arrow straight. Body filler will be reapplied again. This will be worked and gotten straight again before I strip the remaining substrates from the driver's rear quarter panel --which is straight--and the trunk.

To get the curves and contour correct, a template tool is used at various points on the straight fender and compared to the opposing fender in the same spot. Body filler and glaze will be applied repeatedly until the shape between the fenders is nearly the same at those points and rendered smooth and straight, vertically and horizontally.

I have a "long board" pneumatic sander at my disposal and a Dura-Block 16" sanding block (for adhesive backed sand paper) to do this job. I'll use 80 grit.





"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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