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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 04 Mar 2015 :  08:51:36 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
That's what I thought too Rich, but it's just the opposite. The first change I prepared for the worst and was completely surprised on how little oil dripped. The filter was nearly full too. With a filter change, some new oil is poured into the filter so oil pressure comes up faster on start. The filter is hand tighten just like the PF-24 would be.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 06 Mar 2015 :  07:37:10 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 6 March 2015

My wife seldom goes into the garage, and never looks at what I'm doing or have done on it. She's no longer "nosey." However, she did ask how close the car was to getting painted. That was a bit of a surprise question. That question made me think, so I could respond with... "several months away." With the engine and subframe and suspension in the front all "clean and pretty" now, the next phase following installation of the radiator support to the subframe, is the real start of the body work. Body work means dust, so I'll need to protect the engine area from getting dust in every nook and cranny. The entire front end will get wrapped in visqueen.

There are three body parts that need bodywork: hood, and inside top on both fenders. This is rust work. Ooooh---my favorite.

The rust repair on these parts will be done off the car as will the stripping of the old acrylic lacquer BC/CC finish. When complete my plan is to shoot each with epoxy primer then mount the fenders back on the car. Then it's on to stripping paint off other sections until the car is coated with epoxy primer. Then, every effort will be made to get everything straight as possible with block sanding. The long journey continues....

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 06 Mar 2015 :  09:03:44 AM  Show Profile
Awesome Bill. One of these days I'd love to drive down and go to a show or two with ya.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 06 Mar 2015 :  1:30:04 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Rich,
South Florida, that is, West Palm Beach, Broward and Dade County have a slew of car shows between January and April. After that it becomes intolerable to sit in the hot sun until November. So, maybe next year Rich. Maybe the car will be done by then.
+++++

Forgot to add in my previous post that the front sway bar with new poly bushings and hardware was installed as well as the fan. The bolts that hold the sway bar bushing mounts to the subframe are metric. Another example of SAE and metric interspersed on this TA 6.6 built in CA. It was a real bear trying to install this by myself--could have used a strong helper to assist me.

I'm getting close to getting the radiator core support re-attached to the subframe its...coming soon.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 06 Mar 2015 :  4:49:50 PM  Show Profile
We'll see what next year brings then. Mine will certainly be back together and she'll make the trip. Course, that is a looooong boring trip down 95.

Anyhoo, back to your regularly scheduled channel.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 07 Mar 2015 :  11:07:32 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Sway Bar: Decided not to powder coat or shoot Awlgrip marine paint on it. Since the car will not be outdoors much, there will be little chance for it to get 1) dirty or 2) rusty.

Endlink bushings and sway bar bushing are poly not rubber.

This is the first time using "red" bushing. "I'm just a wild and crazy guy." .


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 Mar 2015 :  07:02:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Where to relocate my vacuum pump? I learned something....

I met a fellow yesterday displaying his 67 GTO at a local car show. His car, later in the day, won a trophy, 2 other Pontiacs won trophy's too--great to see. But...what I wanted to relate was that his 400, bored .030" over sporting Edelbrock heads, an RPM manifold, and Doug's headers, also ran a vacuum pump. I didn't notice it because it was hidden under the fender in the space in front of the wheel well. [He also had a MSD unit concealed there too.] I was telling him about my 400's engine needs for vacuum/brakes when he said, "me too." With his set up, he was only pulling about 11" Hg at idle (4 speed manual). The location of this vac unit interests me, as the unit that was previously installed on the front of the engine is presently off and I'm looking for a place to put it. To position my vac unit in the same location will require me to remove the plastic air cleaner intake tube that currently resides there. Fresh air that my Q-jet draws comes from the back of the shaker.

This '67 GTO was a beautiful car in every respect. Worth a bundle, I'm sure.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 09 Mar 2015 07:03:25 AM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 Mar 2015 :  10:01:37 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Some times I don't think things out well. That's what happened to me this morning while re-installing the radiator core support. The core support rubber bushings were shot so a new aftermarket bushing kit was ordered and delivered from Fbodywarehouse. The kit isn't a GM duplicate but should spec out correctly, I hope.

What I realized this morning while bolting the core support in place was that measurements from the firewall to the edge of the unit on both sides of the support were never taken. Ooops.

Consequently, the core support will need to be adjusted when the fenders go back on. In, out, left, right, maybe all of them to get everything to align with the hood and fenders. I'm also hoping the height of the rubber bushing is very close to the originals too. All of this will be dealt with later on.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 10 Mar 2015 :  5:10:14 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: Tuesday 10 March 2015

The radiator and shroud were pre-fit and they look okay, but still believe adjustments to the radiator core support must be made when he fenders and hood go on. That should be fun...lots of fun for another day.

Today, the AC condenser, which sits in front of the radiator (on a slight slant) was installed. Looking at earlier photos, I opted to install it using 4-5/16" x 3/4" SS bolts with SS washers and nuts purchased at Home Depot. The steel hardware left a rust ring--SS shouldn't do that. This will be better.

Tomorrow I may install the vertical support bracket that secures the headlight crossmember in place; maybe the bumper support too.

BTW, I'm still going through the kit of SS fasteners from Totally Stainless to see what can be used on the TA. So far, my money was wasted as only a few fasteners have been used--those around the cowl. It appears the real focus is on Camaro not Firebird, unless there was a big change in how they built Firebirds in later years.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 11 Mar 2015 :  08:54:56 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Where's Mr. Obvious when you need him?

Well, it's not so obvious to me. I need a little help. OK--a rescue.

The hood release bracket mounts to the front vertical support brace. The cable with handle attaches to the bracket. Anyone with a 2nd Gen TA have a photo of this arrangement? Please email me if you have one. bboyle@boyleworks.com

Thank you,
Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 11 Mar 2015 08:55:30 AM
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 11 Mar 2015 :  09:22:45 AM  Show Profile
Sent an e-mail

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 11 Mar 2015 :  10:15:45 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Thanks Rich.

Apparently the cable set up came into being for 79-81 TAs. After looking at the Fbodywarehouse video, it was "obvious" that the bracket that holds the handle is fastened to the bottom of the bumper not the vertical support.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uu5dHAeH5Bs

Bill

++++++++
Lesson Learned: Never assume. The passage of time screws with your memory. Make notes, draw pictures and place all that info in the "bag and tag" baggies for future reference.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 11 Mar 2015 :  10:27:01 AM  Show Profile
Glad that helped.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 15 Mar 2015 :  08:28:28 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 15 March 2015

The radiator. Months ago, the radiator was given to a shop for repair. They made the repair. However, after dipping it in chemicals, the shop painted it. It looked bad. Paint was too heavily applied--it didn't look clean. Disappointed, paint on the tanks was removed with chemical remover. That was messy. It was cleaned, and sat in the garage for months.

On Friday, it was inspected. The gloss paint the shop had applied to the fins was flaking off. A shop brush was run across it a number of times on each side and paint just fell off of it. I'll bet it wasn't dipped in water, or not enough water and cleaner applied to eliminate the chemical bath they gave it. There was enough paint particles that came off of it to sweep up and dump in the trash.

The side tanks were clean from where paint removed was applied months earlier so each tank was now re-cleaned, scotch padded, re-cleaned again and painted with Eastwood's Radiator Black. Despite my cleaning efforts, two small "fish eyes" appeared that had to be fixed. Those areas were later treated with light sanding, cleaned with Windex and repainted. That worked.

After drying the radiator was then placed in the fan shroud along with 4- rubber inserts--2 on the top and 2 on the bottom. With help from my son, we positioned the shroud with radiator in the radiator support.

+++++++++++
The Totally Stainless SS kit I purchased for the TA is a total bust. The few bolts used will be removed and replaced with the original OEM fasteners. Then I plan to contact Totally Stainless about the matter. It truly appears that next to nothing works on my 1979 TA. At this point I can't recommend it for a Pontiac.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 15 Mar 2015 09:20:11 AM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 18 Mar 2015 :  11:44:36 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Well I hope all of you had an enjoyable St Patty's Day. We did.

Facing bodywork a lot of different things have run through my mind. Holes in the hood where rust was starting need to be filled, so I'm thinking of mig welding, and that means more tools. My tendency is to buy the best tools I can afford given the work that needs to be performed. Consequently, I typically buy things that will last or at least hope will last a long time.

Removing all the paint from the body is another chore facing me. I've considered conventional sand and chemical paint removers. The availability and cost of media blasting .... I'm not going there. So, looking at ways to remove paint by sanding or chemicals is high on the list. Paint removers are quite flammable and clean up is messy. Then there's the issue of ridding the surface of all contaminants so the new coatings aren't adulterated that cause more problems. Standard machine sanding is messy too with dust and dirt everywhere. Clean up is a job. Also, sanding and fine particles can get into your lungs. Protective masks are very important.

New sanding abrasives are available that cuts down old paint fast. These abrasives were uncommon when the car was refinished in 92-93. So, they make stripping paint with a machine far more attractive. Time wise, it's a good thing. Mess is probably the same.

Never enough tools! Ordered a Dewalt DWP849X 7" variable speed sander/polisher and 3M Scotch Brite 80 grit hook and loop (velcro) abrasive pads for it. Both should be in my hands next week. 80 grit abrasive should cut paint quickly. The pads were ordered through Eastwood. Also ordered the smaller 4.5" abrasive kit with backing plate too--all hook and loop stuff. The reason for the Dewalt was dependability and its variable speed settings--more control over the machine and paint removal--less heat too.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 18 Mar 2015 6:07:35 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 20 Mar 2015 :  1:15:47 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
After installing the radiator support and steel bumper, the space in front of the car has decreased leaving little room to walk around the front of the car. My tool chest was positioned in front of the car when those parts were removed from the car. Now, its been relocated (once again) to the side of the garage.

Since the hood is the next thing on my work agenda, a wood frame of sorts was built on to my work bench today so the hood can lay flat on it while it's stripped down to bare metal. More rearranging of things in the garage are necessary before I start the stripping process and everything I can protect from dust will be shrouded in plastic. My shop vac will see plenty of duty too.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 20 Mar 2015 :  3:10:00 PM  Show Profile
Sounds like a real Rubik's cube!

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 20 Mar 2015 :  4:38:17 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
LOL Phil--I've never solved a Rubik's Cube either.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 24 Mar 2015 :  2:19:15 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 24 March 2015

Work commences on the hood: My new Dewalt variable sander/polisher is being used along with cutting discs from Eastwood. I'm trying the 4 1/2" "cleaning" disc that's 80 grit in cutting power. It cuts pretty well. The variable speed of the Dewalt lets me dial in the speed. I tried 600 and settled on 1400. This spins the disc giving good control while removing substrate and paint. The "cleaning" disc does get the sheet metal hot, but not so hot they you can't touch it once it cuts to bare metal.

My estimate is that it will take 8-10 man hours to remove all the paint from the hood. (I wish I had a man to do it for me. )

Yes, I'm wearing a particulate mask (3M N95 rated) to keep the dust from getting into my nose and lungs. After a few minutes, dust is collected by brush, broom and shop vac. Trying to keep housekeeping part of the sanding process should cut down on dust in the garage and inside the house.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 24 Mar 2015 :  2:34:09 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage
It sucks going through it, but the end result is so worth it. Keep at it bill!
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Brian R
Crazy Horse

USA
1672 Posts

Posted - 25 Mar 2015 :  4:57:19 PM  Show Profile
Bill,

Hope that's working well for you.

When I did my engine compartment - all down to bare metal, I used a drill and a wire wheel. It ripped right through the 42 year old paint like it was butter. No where near 8-10 man hours. More like 4 or 5.

Is there a reason why you wouldn't want to do it this way? It left nice smooth paintable bare metal and sounds like it was a heck of a lot faster.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 26 Mar 2015 :  07:27:09 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Below shows the beginning removal of paint from the car. When the car was repainted in the early 90s, the hood shows that all OEM was removed and taken down to bare metal. The new finish was built up, starting with the metal being etched, followed by the yellow, gray primer-filler, red sealer, then base coat (blue) and CC. This was a DuPont BC/CC system.

Brian, you refer to removal of paint in your engine bay using a drill and wire wheel working well. I can only guess that the paint you removed didn't have as many substrates as what is on my hood surface.




"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 26 Mar 2015 :  07:40:11 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Here is a close up of the various substrates being removed.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 27 Mar 2015 :  12:50:20 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Brian R--the stripping process is going better than previously expected on the hood. I re-estimate for it to take about 5.5 hours or so. I'm using a little more pressure and the cutting is much more aggressive.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 27 Mar 2015 12:50:51 PM
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Brian R
Crazy Horse

USA
1672 Posts

Posted - 27 Mar 2015 :  4:13:58 PM  Show Profile
That's great Bill !

Going to be beautiful before you know it!
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 29 Mar 2015 :  08:32:43 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Just a couple of observations.

The TA hood sported the bird on the hood for 13 years and was badly worn when it was removed from the hood. The hood was taken down to bare metal, yet, minor pitting existed under the decal. The hood was treated with a DuPont etching chemical before it received the yellow protective coating. Working on the paint removal process this past week, it was evident that the substrates previously applied prevented further breakdown of the sheet metal under the decal area. The minor pitting that existed in 92 did not worsen. This tells me the system used and its application worked very well.

In 1992 there was no evidence of blemishes other than minor pitting under the former decal. Rust did form elsewhere during the next 20+years--where the drilled holes now exist in the front on the hood, driver's side. (See photos above). While grinding away, this past week, on the same side front, I spotted one tiny dark mark in the sheet metal and when it was probed it broke through--clearly a rusted out area. When the passenger side front is tackled next week, I'll be looking for similar dark blemishes.

As mentioned before, I'm not going to fill these .38 caliber sized holes with body filler. My goal is to fill them with metal whether by brazing or welding. I do have a product also mentioned earlier in this long thread from Muggyweld. It is an alloy that they claim can be melted by flame to fill sheet metal holes. I've seen their video on it and that persuaded me to give it a try. The process is simple enough. Heat the parent metal and apply their special flux to that area near the hole. Then, when the flux turns color, with flame still being applied add the stick of alloy to the flame. It will melt filling the hole. It may have to be worked to fill larger holes adding alloy as you go. While I have oxy-acetylene available, I will try MAPP to see if that provides sufficient heat/flame to the sheet metal.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 31 Mar 2015 :  3:14:31 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 31 March 2015

Muggyweld's super alloy was used today to fill all the holes in the hood. Like anything, there's a trick (technique) suggested for this product to work. I'd have to spend a lot more time with the product to get the technique down like the videos shows, but I got it done. I used a MAPP torch as the heat source.

The smallest hole was my first target. I found that applying the liquid flux then heating the parent metal (sheet metal) getting the flux to turn caramel brown then adding the stick super alloy worked pretty well. Larger holes were more difficult, aside from using more super alloy. Getting the right temperature was tricky despite the caramel color of the flux. In one area, the sheet metal got too hot and it became a bit warped. It's nothing that can't be corrected with a skim coat of body filler later on. Enough alloy was added to each hole so that it required grinding off of the excess to make it come flush with the sheet metal. The area will be treated with skim coats of body filler, and necessary block sanding to get it all straight.

The passenger side of the hood still has paint on it so that will be tackled next. However, lots of things to do around the house as we near Good Friday and Easter this coming Sunday. So, I don't expect to get back to the car until next week.

So far, so good. If the passenger side of the hood in the same location shows signs of rust, I need to seriously rethink using the original hood versus getting a brand new hood. My repairs, I believe will hold up, but I 'm wondering about new rust areas coming to the surface after the car is painted. Its a gamble....

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 31 Mar 2015 3:16:28 PM
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 31 Mar 2015 :  3:58:01 PM  Show Profile
Bill, is that stuff like the "Alumalloy" that was on the market a few years ago? I'm wondering how it takes to being covered with filler, primer, paint etc.?

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 31 Mar 2015 :  5:48:23 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Phil, I don't know about that product. Muggyweld has different alloys that can be used for different temperatures. Super Alloy 1 is some form of solder because it doesn't melt the parent metal. It apparently bonds to it. Since tensile strength isn't important, and this stuff is 20,000 psi, I figured it may be adequate to simply fill thin sheet metal. After reviewing the Muggweld website and see numerous videos, I came across the one that fit my situation.

http://muggyweld.com/low-temp-steel-repair

I could see how this could be used to fill the old insignia holes on our old cars, or perhaps holes from old chrome strips and the like as well as other small drilled holes.

Whether this stuff is contrary to today's automotive substrates is not known, however, I'm betting it will not cause a problem with epoxy primer, sealers, primers and top coats. Actually I'm more concerned that I didn't catch all the rust coming from the underside that I couldn't yet see.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 31 Mar 2015 :  8:34:34 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Here is a close-up of one area on the hood repaired with Super Alloy 1.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 31 Mar 2015 :  9:45:34 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage
Man, nice work!
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 01 Apr 2015 :  10:07:58 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Thanks Mike.

This morning my attention went to the opposite side of the hood to see if there were any visible blemishes along the front. Yesterday, the large 7" hook and loop back pad arrived so the 7" cleaning disc, similar in cut to the 4.5" could be used on the hood. This size cleaning pad really cuts quickly and within 1 minute the front edge, 3" wide, along the passenger side of the hood was bare metal. Nothing there--looks new. So, my focus returned to the holes that were filled yesterday.

With hammer in hand, most of the minor warpage, caused by my inept use of the flame causing too much heat, was corrected. Lots of soft taps, and I mean lots, did the trick. Some additional grinding was necessary where the holes where filled as the sheet metal leveled out with my "love" taps. It's pretty straight as far as I can tell by feel and a few skim coats of body filler should make it look like nothing had been repaired. [That's my goal.]

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 07 Apr 2015 :  09:54:48 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 7 April 2015

Since my last post, an additional order was placed with Eastwood. This time it's for body filler, glazing putty, PSA backed 180 grit sandpaper for block sanding, and dry guide coat. Most of the order should arrive today.

For those interested, Contour Premium Body Filler and Contour Glazing putty were ordered. It's my presumption that these products are made by another well known body filler manufacturer and labeled for Eastwood. I strongly suspect Eastwood's Contour Premium line is the US Chemical and Plastics (USC) product, USC Pro-Gold.

Once these arrive, I'll tackle the repaired hood area.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 08 Apr 2015 :  1:32:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
The Contour Premium Body Filler is easy to work with and is ready for sanding in 20 minutes. The hardener, requires less than prescribed, which may be due to the high temperature in my garage. The dry powder guide coat didn't arrive so, I won't be able to complete the leveling as I had hoped to do today. BTW, this stuff is DTM which means it can be applied directly to metal. Sanding is being performed with 80 grit. It's coming along.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 08 Apr 2015 :  1:45:59 PM  Show Profile

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 Apr 2015 :  10:48:46 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
After working the body filler yesterday, one particular area wasn't quite right. My sanding kept revealing a high spot. So, out came the power sander and small 3" x 3" area was cleaned back to metal. Then with body hammer in hand, I was able to flatten out that high spot. As the sheet metal was lowered around the Super Alloy 1, grinding was needed to stay flush with the sheet metal. This wasn't a quick operation. Hammer and grinding, hammer and grinding got me to a point that appeared about right. Back to body filler....

This morning more body filler was added stretching up the hood several more inches which allowed me to sand and straighten everything up. Now, I'll move on to a minor ding received 30 years ago that was corrected in '92 and uncovered while sanding the paint off the hood. So far, so good.

[For safety all sanding is done with a N95 3m particulate mask in place. Body filler is mixed and applied while wearing a 3M respirator that covers my nose and mouth. Sanding dust is kept to a minimum with constant use of the shop vac with filter and collection bag in place. The garage floor is swept and vacuumed often. In addition, nitrile gloves are worn while mixing filler, applying it to the body and while sanding. I've discovered that using these gloves provides a more uniform and more sensitive touch while touching the body I'm working during block sanding. ]

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 09 Apr 2015 :  11:26:36 AM  Show Profile
Some pics would be cool of the work you are doing

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 Apr 2015 :  1:00:20 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Here's a few photos taken yesterday and today--



This filler is easy to spread and easy to sand in 20 minutes with 80 grit.







Below are the two sanding blocks. Glazing putty was used sparingly and can be seen in this photo. There were no "pin holes" that needed to be filled, just a few deeper sanding scratches that needed touch up.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 13 Apr 2015 :  5:55:14 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Today, the Devilbiss HVLP spray guns were checked and then a bunch of things were moved in the garage (again) to get to the compressor. The last time it was used, it didn't sound right and I suspected a loose drive belt. So, this afternoon, the compressor's safety shroud was removed and the belt was readjusted. Once reassembled, the compressor was tested. Stops running at 120 PSI and kicks in again around 90 psi. Check. All valves work as do the gauges. Check. Attached the water collector, and located the "at the gun" pressure control valve. Check. Things are falling into place.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 13 Apr 2015 5:56:11 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 15 Apr 2015 :  09:36:54 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: 15 Apri 2015

My hood is completely stripped to bare metal now. The whole process took close to 7 man hours that included time spent cleaning and collecting paint dust.

My Dupont (now Axalta) order for Cromax 2540S gray epoxy primer (EP) and activator will be placed today and tomorrow I'll go pick it up at the paint supply store. One gallon of EP and 2 quarts of activator should do the whole car. It doesn't get reduced and the mix is 2 parts EP to 1 part activator.

If things go well, the topside of the hood will get one wet coat on Friday.

The abrasive disc provided an 80 grit finish to the metal. Once the EP is on, it will protect the metal from rusting. It's a non-sandable sealer. Following this, the passenger side fender will be stripped and coated with EP, followed by the driver's side. Once, all these body parts have been coated my goal is to put them all back on the car, making all necessary fitment adjustments.

There's lots of work ahead....

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 15 Apr 2015 :  2:01:18 PM  Show Profile
Go, go, go!

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 15 Apr 2015 :  8:22:43 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Some progress photos....














"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 15 Apr 2015 :  8:46:56 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage
That bare metal looks great, you'll have an awesome surface for primer to bind to.
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Admin
Ye Olde Webmaster

844 Posts

Posted - 20 Apr 2015 :  09:59:14 AM  Show Profile
I had hoped to have the epoxy primer in hand last week. This didn't happen as my order was never placed. (Anyone else have siblings that don't follow through on things, or am I the only one with such luck?)

Anyway, this delay has caused more work, as the the bare metal is beginning to rust and that will have to be treated and sanded before I shoot epoxy on it. Humidity is getting higher and higher as we approach the rainy season in South Florida.

The old finish was sanded off the passenger side fender (which is off the car) and now the inside is being cleaned up. It's in excellent condition.

There are areas, I'll call it the "shelf" that is the part of the fender that bends into the engine bay, the hood springs mount to it. There's some rusted areas that will be corrected so it looks like new.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 20 Apr 2015 :  4:33:38 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Rock and Roll! Picked up the epoxy primer and activator this afternoon. It sure lightened the old wallet a bit, but I expect that to happen.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Brian R
Crazy Horse

USA
1672 Posts

Posted - 21 Apr 2015 :  10:54:04 AM  Show Profile
Great stuff Bill - I really look forward to these updates!
Thanks and keep it going!!!!!
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 21 Apr 2015 :  3:03:22 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Thanks Brian--I hope this stuff may be helpful to some of you guys down that pike.

Here, some new things recently done on the passenger side fender, specifically the top fender to firewall bolt hole area.











I realize that many would not have bothered to do this. Most would have ignored the pitting and just left it that way. Since, my goal is to have a show car, this had to
be fixed.

Today, it's a dreary, rainy day. My plan to shoot epoxy on the hood is delayed again, which allowed me to work on the passenger side fender. It's almost done and ready for epoxy primer too. Maybe I can shoot booth on the same day.

Since these parts are off the car, following epoxy primer, each will sit in the garage protected from the elements. The only bad side to that is the epoxy coating hardens and the window for applying primer is short--maybe up to 72 hours. Once that window is gone, the epoxy primer needs to be sanded with 320 to get the surface ready for a urethane 2K primer-filler.

For those who may not recall, I'm using Dupont (now Axalta) from start to finish.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 21 Apr 2015 :  9:33:21 PM  Show Profile
Great stuff Bill, attention to detail will pay off in the long run.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 23 Apr 2015 :  2:56:56 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Update: Thursday 23 April 2015

Oh hum...rain delay again on the epoxy primer--

So, back to the hood to finish sanding off paint from the side edges. While using the 4.5" abrasive disc, I discovered small dark spots in the metal. When they were probed, each blemish broker through--MORE rusted areas to treat and fill. I probed along the entire edge like you would do to locate dry rot in wood and found an area about 12" in length containing these bad areas--tiny holes but rust nevertheless.

Each hole was enlarged slightly where probing would not break through. Super Alloy 1 was used to fill them. Excess was ground down flush with the sheet metal and body filler was skim coated to hide grinding marks and other minute imperfections. I'm writing this as the filler cures.

Just plugging away...yet it seems to be going very slowly.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 24 Apr 2015 :  11:19:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage
Alright--the weather will be clear tomorrow. So the hood will get the once over with a cleaning disc, be cleaned off with Prep-Sol and shot with epoxy primer. If that goes smoothly, I'll do the same with the fender. Wish me luck.

Progress photos to follow.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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