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 Bead blasting your car?
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4797 Posts

Posted - 01 Apr 2010 :  09:33:39 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've removed exterior paint using sanders and paint remover. It was tedious work. Has anyone treated their car to bead blasting as the early prep for new paint? If so, what did it entail? What did it cost? Was there a primer put on the car immediately to prevent rust on the shiny metal?

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 01 Apr 2010 09:51:47 AM

PontiacMatt
Many Ponies

USA
1410 Posts

Posted - 01 Apr 2010 :  11:12:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
About preventing rust on shiny metal, I was watching a show the other day (Chop Top i think it was called?) and IIRC they said they rub the metal down with transmission fluid. Claimed it protects the clean metal from getting rust. I have no idea if that would work, but might be something to look into.

*72' Pontiac Lemans* - Work in Progress
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Kiwi Mal
Cochise

New Zealand
690 Posts

Posted - 01 Apr 2010 :  3:35:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill, when my car was being striped the panel beater took the front and rear bumpers and other plastics, flares etc to a bead blaster to have the paint removed. It is a lot more gental than sand.
A good way of removing paint from the body panels is to use those plastic wire wheels that go on a angle grinder. I can put up a pic of one if have not seen them before.

Mal

Edited by - Kiwi Mal on 01 Apr 2010 3:37:34 PM
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7223 Posts

Posted - 01 Apr 2010 :  3:45:43 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
"Chop Cut Rebuild"?

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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PontiacMatt
Many Ponies

USA
1410 Posts

Posted - 01 Apr 2010 :  9:10:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil, That might have been it... I just had Speed channel on while browsin the forums. It was two guys choppin the top on an old hot rod, not sure what it was. come to think of it, might have been "Two Guys Garage"...

*72' Pontiac Lemans* - Work in Progress
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dgray
Cochise

845 Posts

Posted - 02 Apr 2010 :  07:09:55 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Soda blasting is the best thing going now. It protects the metal from rusting (for a time) and it removes paint but not metal. It also disolves in water so you won't have grit in cracks and crevices like hood or trunk lid braces etc. You just wash it away. There are contractors that can come to your site to do this. I don't know the cost in your location but if you google 'soda blasting' you can find someone and ask. If you are trying to remove rust from metal use a harder media. Check this out:

http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1939_ford_tudor_paint_job/index.html

Edited by - dgray on 02 Apr 2010 07:22:12 AM
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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1685 Posts

Posted - 11 Apr 2010 :  8:39:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Soda blasting sounds like a real breakthrough!

Back in the late 70's I had a buddy help me sandblast my Chevy Vega. I'm still not sure what possessed me to do that. What a disaster. I tried my best to tape off all crevices, jambs, etc but all of the dust created by blasting virtually destroyed the car. The doors, hatchback and hood all squeaked like the Munster's front door, one of the power window motors died, the wiper motor died and I don't think I ever got the interior or engine bay completely clean.

But I saved all that time that sanding would have taken, LOL

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Christ
Howling Wind

USA
1808 Posts

Posted - 11 Apr 2010 :  11:25:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit Christ's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bill,

if your prepparing to taken it down to bare metal. Primer does not protect it from moisture or rust. It needs to be sealed. Primer actually will hold moisture.Once you get it primered you have to aply a sealer to the primer!
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Taman
Red Bird

USA
844 Posts

Posted - 14 Apr 2010 :  4:42:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I had mt TA soda blasted. The tape didn't help. Dust was everywhere. I haven't any issues with any power equipment. Had a lot of cleaning. Didn't hurt glass or any trim pieces. I was very happy with soda blasting.

Everything Under The Sun Is Intune
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dgray
Cochise

845 Posts

Posted - 17 Apr 2010 :  8:43:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I talked to a soda blast guy today and he said it would cost 6-7 hundred dollars to blast a large-car at 150.00 per hour.
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mike mcarthur
Pony that Jumps

USA
2475 Posts

Posted - 17 Apr 2010 :  11:29:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit mike mcarthur's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've been looking at the units Eastwood has. They look pretty good and are much cheaper than paying someone to do it.

It's the stuff you learn after you know it all that's important
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4797 Posts

Posted - 18 Apr 2010 :  09:17:04 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
$650--was the car in pieces at the time or was it whole when done? Was that only for exterior work?

I can see blasting it myself with equipment doing one fender, then another, then the hood, door panels etc if I removed the pieces first to get the inside parts as well. To me, the inner parts should be repainted as well not just the exterior.


Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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dgray
Cochise

845 Posts

Posted - 19 Apr 2010 :  2:28:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I talked to the soda blast guy today because your questions got me curious, even though I'm not in the market for that service at this time. He stated that the cost goes by the hour. If you have a completely stripped down car on a rotisseri he can strip it in about 4-6 hours including the trunk, doors, and hood, inside and out including the bottom, but not including the frame for which he personaly recommends sandblast. He does both. If you want to try to do a car on the frame and cover what you don't want blasted he can do that too for $150.00 per hour at your site. He said that he can control the blast quite well so he can do door edges and hood edges without doing the whole part. He has a portable compressor like those used for jack hammers and the price includes the media. I didn't think to ask about travel charges. This guy is based in Sturgis, Michigan about 20 miles from me. There are similar operations all over the country. They are used a lot on fiberglass boats so I expect that Florida is crawling with them (even though there are more boats registered in Michigan than there are in Florida).
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bnorris_74
Crazy Horse

USA
1442 Posts

Posted - 19 Apr 2010 :  5:33:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
(even though there are more boats registered in Michigan than there are in Florida).


But many of those registered boats are probably at the bottom of one of the Great Lakes. Lake Huron, Erie and Michigan.

Cue up the Edmund Fitzgerald song.
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Aguila1
Buffalo

USA
85 Posts

Posted - 12 Apr 2011 :  11:32:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
On my car I stripped with paint stripper and scotchbrite pad wheels down to clean bare metal. I bead-blasted wherever I would see tiny black oxide spots, but quickly discovered the glass would get into my eyes, etc. and worried about the silica getting into my lungs. That's why you glass bead in a cabinet. I did find that using an air eraser loaded with aluminum oxide got rid of those stubborn black oxide spots quick and safer, though I still use glass bead minimally being careful to blast away from myself.

As to soda blasting: We hired a guy to blast my brother's '88 GTA. It took over four hours and cleaned to bare metal beautifully and as an added bonus the soda residue protected the car from rusting for weeks. Now the bad: Soda blasting will get everywhere inside even if you tape carefully, so I would never use it again on an assembled car, but only on a bare shell. The ugly: The soda blasting pocked-up the fiberglass and urethane pieces so badly it took a huge amount of time to repair them negating the time-saving from blasting as opposed to chemical stripping. It really ruined anything plastic. Operator error? Probably, but I won't chance it again.

To keep bare metal from rusting use a phosphoric acid solution and rinse with clean water and dry thoroughly. Even working in humid SC my car didn't rust for a week. I primed with HOK zinc-rich primer as soon as the rust repairs were done. Five years later: zero rust issues.

Again, my build on CarDomain:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2973935/1979-pontiac-trans-am/page-2

And here's more on my brother's GTA paint prep in an unfinished write-up in the same:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2301577/1988-pontiac-trans-am

No problems with his euro-red repaint, either, though he drives the 360,000 mile original unrebuilt 305 TPI every day. HOK has proven to be as durable as PPG or anything else out there. Great stuff!

1979 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am custom, shaved, House of Kolor Kandy tangerine base coat, airbrush graphics, 462 w/ 1968 #16 heads, 13:1 compression, Ross pistons, Crower Sportsman rods, Pro-Gram billet 4-bolt main caps, Crower 60919 cam, 4L60, powered by e85.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5339 Posts

Posted - 13 Apr 2011 :  11:01:00 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've heard caution against soda blasting because of paint adhesions issues. Here's a ckip i dug up. If you google about sodablasting, you'll find those extremely for it and extremely against it:

"Soda blasting is controversial in hotrodding because substrates that have been soda blasted often display poor adhesion characteristics as a result of blasting residue left on the substrate. In addition, even when the residue is completely removed, soda blasting may offer no savings over conventional media blasting, because of the extra steps required to remove the residue.
Nevertheless, in the right conditions, soda is a useful blasting medium."

"Soda blasting residue removal
Holdtight 102 has been recommended for use in cleaning soda-blasted surfaces prior to application of primer. More details on Holdtight 102.
A vinegar and water solution is occasionally recommended, but has also been cautioned against. (needs verification/confirmation)
Pressure washer and soap (Simple Green or Purple Power). While the car is wet, rinse with a hose. Do this at least 2-3 times. If any of the residue re-dries, water will not neutralize it, and it will have to be retreated.
Dish soap with warm water and a red scuff pad. Scrub panels and rinse with hose three times"



Just some things to think about.
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