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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1683 Posts

Posted - 16 Dec 2009 :  3:04:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yesterday I pulled out the points from my original points distributor and dropped in a Pertronix Ignitor module with a new (matching) Pertronix coil. Double checked that everything was set up right, turned the key - no spark.

So I am invetigating how I hooked it up. The more research I do, the more conflicting info I see about if there is a ballast resistor, a resistance wire, or nothing at all. I have the Ignitor set up as if no resistor - red wire to + on coil and black wire to - on the coil. The ignition wire (that hooks to the + on the coil) runs to a harness with various other wires and behind the firewall, tough to trace!

Has anyone here installed one of these Ignitor critters on a '67 "A" body and if so how'd you wire it?

PS: I hooked my wallet to my multimeter and it reads "negative $75" instead of "overload" LOL some multimeter humor there for 'ya, LOL

Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
6194 Posts

Posted - 16 Dec 2009 :  3:46:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Vid, If running the original "resistance wire" from the harness, you should set it up to run with the resistance wire OR, replace the resistance wire with a appropriately sized standard wire if you want to run it as you have it set up now.

The instructions are typically generalized and it is common (for example) to see a Ballast resistor in older Chryslers, while GM typically used resistance wires.

I've put these kits in customers cars over the years (60's-early 70's GM's) and basically dropped in the kit and ran. I had one bad unit which was an earlier design, but Pertronix improved the kit by the time I used the next one.

"Chevy": even the name sounds cheap.

Edited by - Phil on 16 Dec 2009 3:52:05 PM
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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1683 Posts

Posted - 16 Dec 2009 :  4:23:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil thanks for the scoop. My follow up question is (blushing) um... where is the resistance wire typically located and how will I know it when I see it? All the wiring leading up to the coil looks the same to me. Is it a thicker wire, a certain color wire...?
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bnorris_74
Crazy Horse

USA
1259 Posts

Posted - 16 Dec 2009 :  4:41:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hook your meter up to one of the wires going to the +coil terminal and read the voltage with the ignition switch on. The one reading 7 or so volts will be the resistance wire. You should have another wire on the + side that comes from the starter that supplies 12V power with the key in the start position.

Brian
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bnorris_74
Crazy Horse

USA
1259 Posts

Posted - 16 Dec 2009 :  7:33:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm going by memory but my car has a black wire to the + coil terminal that is the resistance wire. There is a purple wire on the + coil terminal that is the 12volt start wire.

Brian
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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1683 Posts

Posted - 17 Dec 2009 :  01:18:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys, got it figured out and fired up. The Ignitor unit was bad. My shop is about 20 minutes from Pertronix HQ, I ran over there this afternoon. They tested it and replaced it under warranty, no hassle what so ever. They mentioned that their coils are "spot checked" meaning for every few made, one is selected and tested. The coil was fine. The Ignitor unit was dead however. 100% of Ignitor modules are checked before they leave the factory, so they were politely implying that I must have damaged it somehow. I don't see how I could have, but they replaced it happily none the less. Dropped it in and VROOOOOOMMMMMMMM. What a wonderful world. Tomorrow I get to some fine tuning and at long last - DETAILING. Pics will follow soon.
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bnorris_74
Crazy Horse

USA
1259 Posts

Posted - 17 Dec 2009 :  10:56:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sounds like Phil nailed it. You better go back and pick up a spare igniter unit or have a spare point distributor in the trunk in case of another failure during a road trip.
Some people swear by the Pertonix units and others swear at them.

Brian
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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1683 Posts

Posted - 17 Dec 2009 :  12:58:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
LOL Yeah Brian, I sent my brother an email saying I am going to rebuild my spare dizzy with points, he objected and said just keep a spare module in the glove box, LOL. Call me old fashioned...

This guy at "go fast for less" would agree with me on the points: www.gofastforless.com

A spare in the trunk? Trunk?! I Sir, drive a wagon. I think I'll have my sign guy make a small decal for the tailgate that says "GOT GROCERIES?" LOL Thanks again Phil and Brian for your support and advice.
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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1683 Posts

Posted - 18 Dec 2009 :  3:19:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sometimes I feel like a mechanical genius and other times the gaps in my knowledge are like the grand canyon. I have another question not related to the ignition, but to minimize the number of posts here I'll just continue on with this thread.

I put in a new idler arm along with an aftermarket sway bar. Everything went in fine, but now that I am driving the car my steering wheel is a bit off center. Seems like there is an easy fix for this but for the life of me I can't remember what it is. Anybody here?
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bnorris_74
Crazy Horse

USA
1259 Posts

Posted - 18 Dec 2009 :  7:46:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Turn one tie rod adjuster in and the other out. Equal amounts for each.

Brian
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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1683 Posts

Posted - 19 Dec 2009 :  7:39:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Danke schn! :)
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