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 Intake to Timing Cover Coolant Seal
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mkpontiac
Buffalo

52 Posts

Posted - 14 Jun 2009 :  5:42:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It seems I have always had a very small coolant leak from the connection between the timing cover and the intake. There is often but not always a little puddle of coolant on the valley pan under this area. Other then making sure I tighten the bolt that pulls the manifold against the seal between the timing cover and the intake prior to tightening the intake manifold bolts, what steps should I take to make this area leak free? Is a specific brand of seal recommended?

Mark

68bird
Sitting Bull

USA
221 Posts

Posted - 14 Jun 2009 :  5:57:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I had the same issue couple years ago. I replaced the rubber ring with new and also applied some clear blue silicone around each side of gasket being careful not to put too much and seal off the passage, its held up well and leak free.

Robb Hermes
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Cobrabill
Talking Dog

Aruba
3128 Posts

Posted - 15 Jun 2009 :  12:45:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'll go with Robb except i'd use grey or red permatex.I never use the blue.I would also seperate the water jacket from the manifold.That way you don't disturb the seal again for minor stuff.

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Brian Baker
Mongo

USA
1050 Posts

Posted - 15 Jun 2009 :  4:27:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Lastly, tighten the bolt from the crossover to the timing cover/pump before you do the final torque on the intake bolts. I always torque the intake bolts to 20 ft/lbs and then tighten the crossover bolt until I see some sealant begine to ooze around the area, then I finish torquing the intake to factory specs. If you seperate the crossover from the manifold, you can repeat the same process, but just on the two crossover bolts.

Will Rogers never met a liberal.
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Taman
Red Bird

USA
844 Posts

Posted - 15 Jun 2009 :  8:08:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Make sure you tighten the front bolt to the timing cover first. If you tighten the manifold first, the manifold will not pull forward to seal the leak that happens there. Then torque the manifold down. That's how I do it and have never had a leak there.

Everything Under The Sun Is Intune
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 17 Jun 2009 :  10:35:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
He stated he tightens the intake to timing cover bolt first but still has the problem. I concur on the permatex. I had the problem early on and started using a "light skin" on the washer seal and haven't had a leak on our Pontiacs in decades.

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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mkpontiac
Buffalo

52 Posts

Posted - 18 Jun 2009 :  12:36:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you all for your responses. I will use some permatex on the seal.

Mark
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Pontiac Dude
Sitting Bull

USA
199 Posts

Posted - 18 Jun 2009 :  08:08:38 AM  Show Profile  Visit Pontiac Dude's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I used Permatex Grey silicone and never any leaks. On both sides of the grommet. Some aftermarket intakes the housing is too thick and might need to be ground down so the grommet protrudes a little better to get a seal. Also use neverseize on the bolt into the cover.

## 1976 T/A, Hydraulic roller, 3460lbs, stock suspension & Pump gas. N/A: 9.78@136 ##

I Specialize in ALL American Muscle Iron.
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Edited by - Pontiac Dude on 18 Jun 2009 08:11:32 AM
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dgray
Cochise

845 Posts

Posted - 18 Jun 2009 :  6:31:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I use a coating of permatex aviation cement on the rubber donut and tighten the water connection before I tighten down and torque the manifold. Cutting the water connections loose from the rest of the manifold is a good idea too, although I have not tried it myself.
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Taman
Red Bird

USA
844 Posts

Posted - 23 Jun 2009 :  10:50:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If they would make the seal .030" thicker it wouldn't be an issue.

Everything Under The Sun Is Intune
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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1685 Posts

Posted - 27 Feb 2010 :  02:22:27 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Taman

Make sure you tighten the front bolt to the timing cover first. If you tighten the manifold first, the manifold will not pull forward to seal the leak that happens there. Then torque the manifold down. That's how I do it and have never had a leak there.



Wouldn't pulling the intake forward upset all that tedious port gasket matching where the intake runners meet the head?
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 27 Feb 2010 :  10:27:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No, movement is not much at all but it is still better to separate the crossover to avoid this.

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.

Edited by - Phil on 27 Feb 2010 10:28:04 PM
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Vid
Kicking Horse

USA
1685 Posts

Posted - 04 Apr 2010 :  9:26:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
After re-reading all of these posts I conclude to forget all of the work involved with different colored sealing goop, separating water crossovers and retorquing numerous bolts. Just let it leak and dab it with a rag once in a while, much easier! LOL
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455 Formula
Sitting Bull

USA
244 Posts

Posted - 23 Jan 2012 :  4:40:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Taman

If they would make the seal .030" thicker it wouldn't be an issue.




Old post, but thought this might help...

The seal in the Best Gasket Set #17078E is about .045" to .050" thicker than the one in the Fel-Pro set and has a much smaller hole, which gives more contact area...Robert
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 23 Jan 2012 :  4:49:47 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Good to know, i've always thought that if they made it just a little thicker it would solve this issue. Isn't that hole just for bypass when the thermostat is closed? Not like the slightly smaller hole would make a difference.
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455 Formula
Sitting Bull

USA
244 Posts

Posted - 23 Jan 2012 :  7:17:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The hole is about the same size as the hole in the intake, but it is much smaller than the Fel-Pro 'O' ring, so it has more sealing area.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 24 Jan 2012 :  11:12:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cobrabill

That way you don't disturb the seal again for minor stuff.

What do you consider minor stuff?


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 24 Jan 2012 :  1:02:01 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Id consider minor like trying different intakes or swapping lifters or fixing sn intake gasket etc.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 24 Jan 2012 :  1:26:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I rate jobs by how many shop towles it takes to complete a task. Anything over two rags I consider major.


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 24 Jan 2012 :  3:15:52 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
B&P - nice system!
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 24 Jan 2012 :  4:34:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
On the weekend, two rag jobs (or more) should be accompanied by an adult beverage.


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 24 Jan 2012 4:37:43 PM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 24 Jan 2012 :  5:42:31 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
How about a beverage for every two rags...and if you get past six beverages it might be time to take a break.
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455 Formula
Sitting Bull

USA
244 Posts

Posted - 25 Jan 2012 :  12:05:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I use way too many shop towles.

Anything that takes more than 2 Domino's pizzas is major...
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