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 1320 (Pontiac Straightline Performance)
 Bolt in roll bar
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DanM
Cochise

212 Posts

Posted - 25 Nov 2019 :  12:36:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have plenty of time to plan so this is a bit premature, but, what the heck.

After I finish my convertible's rebuild I will very likely be running under the 3.49 roll bar rule for convertibles. If I ever want to go more than once down the track at Epping I will need a roll-bar. But this is my daily driver so I need something that bolts in just for the trips to the track.

Any personal experience with such things?

Corncob2061
Crazy Horse

USA
589 Posts

Posted - 12 Dec 2019 :  9:23:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have never done a cage in a convertible, but some things are the same. You will need a minimum of a 5 point roll bar and you will be good to 10.0. Going to have to race with the top up or wear wrist/arm straps. Most people put the extra side bar on the front and do a 6 point as it makes the frame more ridged. On a daily driver I would just to a 5. The front bar usually just swings out of the way, and it pulls right out once the pins are out. That means the other 4 point have to be bolted or welded to the frame. I do not think NHRA will let you put in any flange to unbolt other than were it bolts directly to the frame. On a convertible it should be doable to put the top back and pull that cage out though with some thought put into designing it. The seat belt harness attaches to the cross bar, so the seat belts will be coming out with the roll bar. It probably should be crome moly tubing so it is lighter, and easier to pull out and smaller dia. Jay
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Brian Baker
Mongo

USA
1056 Posts

Posted - 13 Dec 2019 :  12:09:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I really can't add to what was already said, except this:

Bolt in roll bars have historically been made from thin material, or the improper material, to meet NHRA/IHRA safety specs, which relegates them to "show only" purposes.

If the tech inspector at the track sees that the bars are bolted to the floor/trunk pans, they're not going to let it pass inspection, so if you run under the E.T. requiring a roll bar, they're likely going to tell you to park the car.

If you're serious about the roll bar, you can still put one in that is legit' for safety tech AND make it "streetable" and maybe fun for your convertible. Swing out door bars are acceptable, making getting in and out of the car easier, but they don't allow for a removable cross brace on the main hoop (this would be the brace the front seat backs would rest against or mount to, and is also used often to mount the shoulder portion of aftermarket 5-point harnesses). You can retain the rear seat by having the rear support bars for the main hoop pass through the rear package tray area, or behind the rear seat, into the trunk area. This will all be custom work but in the long run is the same price as if you'd purchased a kit from someone like S&W and had a welder install it. Custom bending it to your car will also maximize interior room for passengers, especially in the back seat. Lastly, paint it to match the color of the body for summertime fun with the top down.

Will Rogers never met a liberal.
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