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 Blocks / Cranks/ Rods and Pistons
 Sealed Power E-300K 60 ring gap
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beertracker
Cochise

403 Posts

Posted - 21 Dec 2018 :  5:58:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is what Sealed Power told me;

"on a N/A engine with a 4.211" bore size your first & second ring end gap should be 0.012?-0.022?, note: for every 0.001? of oversize bore the ring end gap will be 0.0031? bigger." I told them the piston I am using.

1. Does the range look ok based your work? Would I gain any benefit by setting all ring gaps to a tigher range maybe .014-.016"?

2. I thought the second ring gap should be bigger than the first?

3. Is ring end gap determined by the ring manufacturer, piston manufacturer or both? I haven't contacted Speed Pro on this.

Pistons are Speed Pro L235NF-60. Rings are Sealed Power E-300K 60 Vingate rings. They are going in a non-nitrous, N/A Pontiac 455, 4.151" bore, .060" over. Pistons are Speed Pro L235NF-60.

bt



Edited by - beertracker on 25 Dec 2018 12:47:42 AM

Corncob2061
Cochise

USA
346 Posts

Posted - 22 Dec 2018 :  11:08:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
File to fit usually come with instruction. .0045 per inch of bore on the top, add .005 to the second is what I have done with similar engines. .012 sounds to tight to me, maybe on a really stock rebuild. Last 455 I did with the same pistons but .030 over I went .018 top and .023 second. No advantage to running the second ring the same, it is mainly for oil control. I can think of a few OEM diesel engines that do not have the second ring at all, the only effect being they use a little oil.

The ring end gap depends on the bore size, intended abuse, piston and piston ring design and metalergy. Ring thickness and metalergy probably have some impact, but most of that is already decided by the piston design. If the rings do require a special gap they nearly always come with instruction on what to change. I would say ring gap is decided most by the bore and the intended use for the piston design. I did a ceramic ring set once, and some total seal zero gaps, only times I can think of that I used a spec different than the piston mfg recommended.Jay

Edited by - Corncob2061 on 22 Dec 2018 11:46:57 PM
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beertracker
Cochise

403 Posts

Posted - 23 Dec 2018 :  12:54:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is the rotary ring filer I am using; https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80514/10002/-1 I am planning on using the 170 grit side for a finer cut. Something to be aware of is placing the ring on the proper side of the stop per the pic. Also I need to get a fine abrasive stone for removing any burrs on the ring ends. What do you use for this step; fingernail file? See Checking Piston Ring Gap below.

Directions: Using the Tool

1. Place the piston ring on the outer edge against the stop and the ends squarely against the grinding
wheel. A light, even pressure against the wheel works best and will help prevent grinding too large a
gap.

2. Turn the handle so the grinding wheel turns towards the inside edge of the ring (counter-clockwise
when viewed from the handle side of the tool).

3. CAUTION! This is a diamond grinding wheel. It cuts fast!

Checking Piston Ring Gap

1. Carefully remove any burrs on the ring ends before placing the ring in the bore. A light touch with a
fine abrasive stone works well.

Thanks,
bt



Edited by - beertracker on 23 Dec 2018 12:59:08 PM
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beertracker
Cochise

403 Posts

Posted - 25 Dec 2018 :  12:49:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Are there any advantages to having the second ring gap larger than the first?



Edited by - beertracker on 25 Dec 2018 12:51:44 AM
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Corncob2061
Cochise

USA
346 Posts

Posted - 29 Dec 2018 :  12:50:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have read that to narrow of a gap on the second ring can unlodge the top some and make it not seal as well. The extra gap is suppose to equalize the pressure between the rings. In reality, if you did gap it the same I doubt you would notice anything. It is far enough from the top of the piston it should not expand to the point it would ever cause and issue, and a few thousandths gap on the second will not effect much. The rings expand more the closer they are to the heat at the top of the piston. So you can run the second tight, it does not expand as much as the top. Total seal runs the second ring tight (less than the top) on some of their sets. But as far a I can tell, there really is not advantage to doing it that way unless your doing power adders and have to run a really wide top gap.

I use a dremel with polishing disk or stone to clean up the nicks. Sometimes just a really fine file.

I remember using the sides of a makita 14in cut off saw to do ring gaps once when we were somewhere with that had no special tools. Just hit the trigger and let the momentum with no power do the cutting. Was surprised how well it worked. Did not even have to dress the rings up much. Practiced with some old rings to see if it would work and then made it work. Jay
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beertracker
Cochise

403 Posts

Posted - 07 Jan 2019 :  3:54:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The first ring gap all measured .020" out of the box. The second ring gap measured .022". I only had to dress up two of the second rings to get the gap at .022". Both of these gaps are within the Sealed Power spec so I am going with these numbers. Time to install the rings and get ready for crank, mains and rear main seal install. bt


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beertracker
Cochise

403 Posts

Posted - 11 Jan 2019 :  1:02:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My ring set uses a oil expander, top rail and bottom rail. When I install these is there a correct side up or can I install these any side up. I know I have to clock the rings after install. bt


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Corncob2061
Cochise

USA
346 Posts

Posted - 11 Jan 2019 :  1:05:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Any side up on that
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