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 Pulling a 400
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SIX8YAK
Tribal Scout

USA
13 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2017 :  1:36:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good afternoon gents,

This month I'll be taking my 400 out of the GP for a refresher. I've never pulled an engine before so I'd like some tips and/or tricks from those that have. I have a cherry picker, an engine stand, and I will need to build a crate for it as I plan on putting it in my truck to transport.

I will make sure to take plenty of photos of the bay before I start ripping stuff off, and using labeled tape and baggies for all the nuts/bolts/apparatus'. The tranny is staying in.

I plan on having it rebuilt as stock, with a .20 over bore and dished pistons, along with as lopey a cam as I can get. Any recommendations on parts to buy to get that accomplished is also appreciated.

Thanks!

1968 Grand Prix 400/TH350

Edited by - SIX8YAK on 10 Oct 2017 1:39:55 PM

BDH79TA
Tribal Scout

USA
6 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2017 :  3:13:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Obviously you'll want to drain the oil and antfreeze before pulling. In that big old car there's lots of room to work. This makes it much easier. Remove the hood. Two people for this is best. Don't want it slipping and breaking the windshield. Done that one! Also, scribe around your hinges at the hood. This'll help when putting it back on when it comes to alignment. Remove the radiator, fan and most front end accessories like the alternator and power steering pump. I usually leave the power steering pump in the car. Next would be to unhook fuel lines, electrical wiring running to sending units and the starter. Unbolt the exhaust pipes from the manifolds. One thing to consider is whether or not you want to pull the engine and trans or just the engine. I've gotten to the point I prefer to pull both at the same time. You'll either need to drain the trans fluid or purchase a cap that will go over the trans output to keep the fluid in it while tilting the assembly to get it clear of the car. I also pull the distributor so there's no chance of breaking it against the firewall. I use an engine tilter now....makes a huge difference. At this point, I'd hook up the cherry picker, take the slack out of the chain and remove the bolts from the engine mounts the trans mount and driveshaft. You may have to remove the trans crossmember. Just go slowly while lifting the engine up. Use the tilter to help get the correct angle to pull it out. There's usually something that you've forgotten to unhook. Going slow and steady is best. Once it's out you can unbolt the trans and torque converter. Good time to do a shift kit if desired and change the filter. I may have forgotten a detail or two, but that should get you started.

'79 428 T/A
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BDH79TA
Tribal Scout

USA
6 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2017 :  3:20:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sorry...I missed the part about the tranny staying in. In that case, you'll need to pull the torque converter cover and remove the 3 converter to flexplate bolts. Run a bar through one of the flexplate holes if you can to keep the engine from turning as you loosen the bolt. I use a large screwdriver to spin the flexplate around to the next bolt and repeat. Make sure to support the front of the transmission before you remove the engine to trans bolts. Once the engine is pulled I always ran some strong wire, coat hanger will do, through one of the trans bolt holes and wired it to whatever I could find to keep the trans from falling down. Just a safety precaution.

'79 428 T/A
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Cobrabill
Talking Dog

Aruba
3128 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2017 :  10:09:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Talk to someone who has experience with cams(and not anyone from Grand Terrace).A "lopey cammed engine" can end up running worse than a factory cammed engine.

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tjs44
Cochise

USA
411 Posts

Posted - 11 Oct 2017 :  09:36:15 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
2X what Bill says.Build it to drive first.Tom
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