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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7218 Posts

Posted - 06 Jul 2017 :  09:50:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow, lots of progress here! But we have to persuade you to move out of that swampy greenhouse-barren car land!

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 06 Jul 2017 :  10:38:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Morning of 6 July 2017

The floor pan is finished. I'm pausing to determine what should be pursued next. When parts are ordered but not delivered (as of yet) it really stalls things.

After spending an hour in the garage this morning with the door open, I was drenched with sweat. It was 86 degrees at 9 am and the humidity is very high. There's no breeze to speak of so my body is reacting to it like it's 100.

Thinking about it, here's a partial list of major tasks that need to be handled:

1. The hood needs to be block sanded and re-shot with primer;
2. One of the fenders needs to be sanded and both need to be re-shot with primer;
3. The rest of the car needs to be block sanded and re-shot with primer;
4. The fenders need to be mounted and fitted with the hood;
5. The axles needs to be cleaned up and refinished;
6. The gas tank needs to be pulled and the new one installed;
7. The dash board needs to be repaired/ or/ the cap installed;
8. All of the new plastic interior pieces need to be cleaned, prepped, and dyed;
9. The insulation needs to be installed;
10. The old windshield needs to be removed and the new one installed; while the
window is out the metal part of the dash should be repainted to freshen it up.

11. Locating a person or shop to paint the car and body pieces that need to be assembled on to it;
12. Locating a shrink to get me through this.



"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 07 Jul 2017 :  10:20:45 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike,
Your brought it up a while back and mentioned that perhaps I should paint this myself at home. I have to say my frustration finding a shop to do it my way is making me reconsider your suggestion. To do it would require a major change, at least a temporary one, in my garage space.

The ceiling is 8' high. Should I build an enclosure within the garage to form a make shift paint booth would be challenging. The garage door when open lowers the make shift ceiling to 7 or so feet. Width wise, I could probably manage about 4-5 feet from the car to the wall of the make shift booth. Lighting would have to addressed as well as ventilation.

Everything non car related would have to exiled from the garage for several days--perhaps stuff could moved to our enclosed patio--rather than trying to rent a storage locker for a month or more that would entail renting a truck, loading and unloading and loading and unloading back into the garage. (Tired just thinking of it). 90% of this work would have to be done by me with minimum assistance from others.

Doing it at home would save me thousands of dollars and although paint imperfections would be more likely to happen all of them would be corrected by me--whatever it would take.

Something to ponder.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 07 Jul 2017 :  2:44:19 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Several photos of passenger side floor plan--








"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7218 Posts

Posted - 07 Jul 2017 :  3:58:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Boyle

Update: Morning of 6 July 2017

The floor pan is finished. I'm pausing to determine what should be pursued next. When parts are ordered but not delivered (as of yet) it really stalls things.

After spending an hour in the garage this morning with the door open, I was drenched with sweat. It was 86 degrees at 9 am and the humidity is very high. There's no breeze to speak of so my body is reacting to it like it's 100.

Thinking about it, here's a partial list of major tasks that need to be handled:

1. The hood needs to be block sanded and re-shot with primer;
2. One of the fenders needs to be sanded and both need to be re-shot with primer;
3. The rest of the car needs to be block sanded and re-shot with primer;
4. The fenders need to be mounted and fitted with the hood;
5. The axles needs to be cleaned up and refinished;
6. The gas tank needs to be pulled and the new one installed;
7. The dash board needs to be repaired/ or/ the cap installed;
8. All of the new plastic interior pieces need to be cleaned, prepped, and dyed;
9. The insulation needs to be installed;
10. The old windshield needs to be removed and the new one installed; while the
window is out the metal part of the dash should be repainted to freshen it up.

11. Locating a person or shop to paint the car and body pieces that need to be assembled on to it;
12. Locating a shrink to get me through this.







11 & 12 are Unicorns.

I think you should paint it yourself. You already possess the skill and ability that most of us lack in that area. Are you able to rent a PODS container to put in the driveway to temporarily store your garage contents or do you have an HOA who would forbid it? If not, how about borrowing an enclosed trailer to use as a temporary storage unit assuming you know someone who has one and isn't using it? This way, your stuff is right there in the driveway if you need anything plus saving all the time relocating it off site.

Then you're just prepping an open, empty garage for the paintwork.

How about renting a booth somewhere? (I've only heard of this over the years but never personally pursued it.)

I'm only half serious about this last suggestion but I also know a few people who use MACCO to finish paint their classics with good results. However, these are certain shops who happen to have a few key experienced people and/or an owner who has expertise. That's a crap shoot in your area I'm sure. And these classics are drivers and not show cars. I seem to remember you were going for the gold sort of with this project..

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.

Edited by - Phil on 07 Jul 2017 4:04:33 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 07 Jul 2017 :  8:36:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Phil and others--

My wife is not against me hiring a shop to paint the car. She also believes that I can shoot it in our garage in a dust free environment. She watched me paint the TA in '93 so she has confidence that I can do it again. She believes that I should build a paint booth inside the garage!

My wife knows, as we've discussed it, that just painting equipment should be in the garage and anything that is unnecessary be removed from it and stored. I did think of a large POD to put in the driveway to use, but I'm afraid one of my snooty neighbors would wind up calling City Code enforcement just to hassle me.

It looks like our covered patio may become a temporary storage area for all my garage gear etc.

More on this in the days and weeks to come.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 08 Jul 2017 :  09:40:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Saturday morning-- 8 July 2017

Early this morning, the trunk lid was block sanded with guide coat to see if there were any low areas. Found quite a few, nothing major so I mixed some thin body filler to skim coat it. Everything looked good. Sunny sky not a cloud any where when I started. Guess what, it's been pouring now for 25 minutes straight, hard, and when it started, it was like a Chinese fire drill getting everything put back in the garage under cover. The trunk was still curing when the rain began. Whether the curing process will be effected by rain drops...not sure.

Weather forecast was no rain today. HA. Weatherman, guess again.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 08 Jul 2017 5:10:22 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 08 Jul 2017 :  5:09:38 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Product overview:

I've been using 3M's body filler #33177, just finished the quart can. It is a very good light body filler. It is easy to use, sands within 20-25 minutes and doesn't gum up 80 grit paper. Use a small amount of catalyst in hot or warm weather. I found that it was impervious to rain drops that fell on my skim coat this morning and sanded the surface without issue. I've added Evercoat's Honey Plastik to make it more creamy and spreadable. It's a great product too. Two thumbs up to both.

I'll be using an Evercoat product next (Rage) and will opine on that body filler too.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 08 Jul 2017 7:42:38 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 Jul 2017 :  5:52:57 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
My very necessary diatribe--

Today the forecast was rain and because of it, I spent a portion of the day rifling through my unbelievably large assortment of wood screws of all sizes and material (bronze, brass, steel, and aluminum), machine screws, sheet metal screws, hex bolts, lag bolts, nuts, washers...you get the picture. Meanwhile, the sun is blistering the pavement. No rain in sight.

I kept organizing and trashing some hardware that I'll never use. All of this effort is being performed on one side of the car. On the other side of the car where most of the TA's new and old parts are stored, I squeezed in the trunk lid to sand on it yesterday. . It's sitting on saw horses, all block sanded and ready for more coats of primer. There's maybe 18" of room between the trunk lid and the car, just enough room to stand or sneak by.

There is so much stuff in my garage that my AC is laboring trying to cool the garage.

You see, with all the part boxes piled up, there are so many more surfaces that are sucking the cool air coming out of the unit. At 7 am, the temperature in the garage typically averages 82 degrees now. When the AC is clicked on it will lower only 2 degrees to 80. 80 is an okay temperature to work in; however, there's no room in the garage to work. It requires me to spend a half hour or more moving things outside to the driveway. When that happens, the outside temperature quickly overrides the AC unit driving the inside temperature beyond 82 to 85 or more, then when everything is outdoors and the garage door is closed, the AC labors to drop the temperate down. When it finally starts to drop down, the rain comes.

The sky can be clear and within a few minutes storm clouds roll in from the everglades or the beach and deliver hard, torrential rain. Stuff outdoors is spread out and voluminous and not under a tarp so it has to come in. This stops my work, causes me to relocate my work and act frantically bringing stuff back into the garage. That shuts down my activity ...maybe for hours, maybe for the day. The garage becomes a mess because of the haste in bringing stuff back into it. This has become a ugly routine.

I created this situation. Too many large pieces of wood working equipment consume too many square feet of garage space. They have to go.

The forecast was rain--no rain today at all.




"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 09 Jul 2017 5:53:56 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 10 Jul 2017 :  10:03:32 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Monday 10 July 2017

Block sanded the driver's fender this morning (inside the garage, it's raining with T-storms).

The fender is in excellent shape and only a few areas need to receive a skim coat of body filler. These areas were revealed using guide coat.

One area is at the very front of the fender on the side where the metal bends at 90 degrees for the fasteners. That bend causes a ridge at the edge of the bend and a valley behind it. The other area is down low where the fender attaches near the firewall/door. Again, factory bends cause a valley at the bends. Evercoat Rage body filler will be used this time as a skim coat.

Both fenders and the rear trunk lid will need to be masked again before getting a final primer coat applied to them. That primer will be sanded with 320 or 400.

I'm not sure when the final primer coat or coats will be shot...hopefully this week. In the meantime, if the weather is inclement, I'll rearrange things so I can block sand the hood in the garage.



"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 10 Jul 2017 :  10:14:52 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
This final coat of primer, is that final before paint? If so, you may want to consider stepping up to 400 minimum, 500 maybe? (Not doing 320 then 400/500, just doing it.)

Reason i say, IIRC, your car is a metallic color, albeit dark, and i imagine you'll be doing base coat/clearcoat. Single Stage will fill a 320 scratch no problem but on metallic base i see a lot of guys going 400/500+. I'm doing 600 on the 56 currently, but because i had it on hand. It's single stage but half is a metallic color and i'm nervous going under 500.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7218 Posts

Posted - 10 Jul 2017 :  10:37:46 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill, I can't imagine how difficult it must be to paint anything with the level of humidity where you are located.

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 10 Jul 2017 :  10:43:47 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I can't imagine sanding everything with the level of humidity where he's located!
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 10 Jul 2017 :  12:12:04 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Phil and Mike--

As I type this, the sun is out with scattered thunder clouds. It's rumbling in the distance and my dogs are on alert. They get antsy.

It was humid and hot in Shreveport, LA when I painted the car in 93. So, I'm used to hot humid weather. The difference is I'm older and it wears me out. Having to move around in tight quarters also is physically taxing. Being unable to proceed frustrates me but this is my situation, not much I can do about the weather. The lawn is vibrant green--Glad I don't cut it myself anymore.

Applied some body filler to the areas mentioned above and sanded them. Just added a little more to get it right. The Evercoat Rage sands easily. It appears to be as good as the 3M I used earlier. The 3M is less expensive quart or by the gallon.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 10 Jul 2017 :  3:21:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike--forgot to answer your question-

The primer does not precede the color coat. Sealer follows the primer. It will get 1 coat of medium gray, Chromapremier 42440S 2K Sealer. If it doesn't get paint right away, the sealer must be sanded with 600 wet, which is very likely, given I'm a one man show.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 10 Jul 2017 :  10:06:07 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Gotcha, you're right on track then.

I still think you're going to get everything done and be like "well, all that's left to do is spray it..."
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 12 Jul 2017 :  09:16:42 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Wednesday 12 July 2017

Touching up the bottom of the passenger side fender closest to the door. Added a skim coat of filler and it's curing right now. Once it's sanded both fenders will be ready for their next coat of primer. The hood is currently waiting to be block sanded and is perched on the TA's roof. I'm not sure how much will need to be done to perfect its surface but should know soon. Also, took another look at the shaker scoop and re-sanded around the rivets to ensure the primer sticks to the surface properly--I don't want any peeling. The trunk lid is also ready. I'm hoping that once these parts are masked, all can be coated at one spraying event. That would be terrific.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 12 Jul 2017 :  9:19:16 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Late evening update: 12 July 2017 9:15 PM

We have rainy, inclement weather again and will storm on and off for a couple of days. This postpones shooting more primer. It also slows my ability to block sand the hood.

Tomorrow my plan is to place the hood on two saw horses just outside the garage door. I will attempt to block sand when it's not raining and stop when it starts up again. A tarp will be close by.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 13 Jul 2017 :  09:09:34 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Thursday morning 13 July 2017 9:08 am

My plan is in effect. I got 2/3 of the hood block sanded finding several high areas and lots of low areas. They are not in the same location on each side of the centerline except for around the scoop opening. That I'm not surprised of because of the bend in the metal to form the lip around the scoop hole.

Right now the hood is covered because it's raining. I have 1/3 of the hood to block sand and if all goes well I'll proceed with skim coating the low areas with filler, block sand again etc. If the weather cooperates a little I'll be able to do all of this today.


+++++++
Well, the weather worsened. Sanded the remaining 1/3 of the hood and applied some filler, one minute later it started to pour and the filler was not cured--ruined skim job.

I'm done until we have fair weather!

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 13 Jul 2017 10:42:13 AM
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 14 Jul 2017 :  07:43:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking forward to it being completed Bill, great job on everything.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 14 Jul 2017 :  6:20:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Looking forward to it being completed Bill, great job on everything.


Thank you Rich.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 16 Jul 2017 :  3:16:41 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: 16 July 2017

Rain stalled my efforts with the hood so I moved back to the interior of the car. With the Acousti Shield on hand, the pre-cut and lettered Dynamat pieces where grouped, laid out as specified per the instructions on the floor pan and glued in place (self-adhesive back). The select pieces of Dynamat are strategically placed to remove the hollow "boink" sound of thin sheet metal. The product deadens the vibration. Next is the Acoustishield insulation. Those pieces are precut to fit the entire floor pan and receive a spray adhesive to bond it to the Dynamat and the floor pan. Here are photos.









The entire floor pan received the Dynamat that included the back seat area.

BTW, my wife was so enthusiastic about this product that she assisted me with the placement of the Dynamat. She wanted me to move to the insulation but I told her that would be premature as too many other things needed to be done and I didn't want to damage the insulation with my big feet.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 22 Jul 2017 :  08:51:57 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
During the past week our immediate family saw our boy collie's health decline to such a degree that he required a blood transfusion. He was critically ill with a mass in his duodenum. Because of our great love for him, we spared no expense and proceeded with difficult surgery. Our surgeon told us the mass didn't look like cancer and was some form of bacterial infection. She got it all and we were quite relieved. He was recuperating from surgery and then suddenly 30 hours later became gravely ill. The medical prognosis was not good should we proceed with a second surgery to eliminate the new infection....

This was devastating, heartbreaking information...so we spent time with our wonderful boy dog, loving and comforting him, saying beautiful things to him, telling him how much we loved him. Buddy passed away the morning of 19 July. Our household is in mourning. Our two lady collies miss him and are grieving. Even little Tux, our Manx cat, who was initially befriended by that big loving boy is showing sadness.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 22 Jul 2017 :  09:50:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I'm sorry to hear that Bill. Pets are members of our family too, i know how rough that can be.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3406 Posts

Posted - 22 Jul 2017 :  09:56:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sincere condolences. Pets are family


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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Hikin Mike
Tribal Scout

USA
20 Posts

Posted - 22 Jul 2017 :  3:26:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit Hikin Mike's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Sorry for your loss Bill. Yes, pets are family.

- Mike



'69 Firebird 400 - Goldenrod Yellow, 455 +.060, '6s-7' heads, Comp Cam 276AH-10 (#51-309-4), TH400, Ford 9-inch w/3.08, 800cfm Q-jet, Stock Intake, Hooker Headers, Flowmasters
'68 Coronet 500 Convertible - Medium Gold Metallic, stock 318 +100,000 miles
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 26 Jul 2017 :  11:07:28 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Wednesday 26 July 2017--Where has this month gone?

Today looked like it was going to be a clear day. That was abruptly interrupted with a massive lightning strike close to our home which shook the house and startled people and animals alike. So much for thinking about working outdoors.

Things have been quiet at our home since our boy dog took ill and subsequently died. Nothing is back to normal; moreover, normal has changed. Our two female collies have been depressed and perhaps confused over "Buddy's" absence. Their behavior is different so I can only surmise they are missing their boy too.

With the weather thwarting my efforts to re-prime the hood, trunk lid and fenders, I've focused on other car things that are not exactly in logical sequence.

New replacement 6 x 9 rear speakers were purchased from Crutchfeld 4 years ago. They've been sitting in the box all this time, so, with the garage door shut, I focused my attention on their installation. These speakers are far superior than the inexpensive speakers the factory installed.

With the interior being gutted and Dynamat strategically placed on the floor pan and on the sheet metal trunk and cabin divider, it was time for me to install these new speakers.

The factory used two metal grills to protect the speakers. These grills saw use on numerous GM vehicles and have 4 protruding screws that penetrate the metal deck and secure the under mount speakers to it with lock washer-nuts.

The new speakers, also 6 x 9, use a slightly wider grill frame and grill. The frame is plastic and the grill is metal. The grill and frame are black and if used, would sit 1/2" above the package tray. The OEM's are nearly flush with the package tray, a look that I prefer. After considering my options, I decided to secure the new speakers to the deck without using the plastic frame and metal grill. Instead, I 'm using the perforations in the package tray to allow sound to pass. This is a nice clean look and sound should be much better than ever before. AcoustiShield jute insulation will also be used between the Dynamat and package tray.

I'm not an audiophile so I'm not seeking the highest quality sound from my radio. Vroom, vroom...still far more important.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Brian R
Crazy Horse

USA
1672 Posts

Posted - 27 Jul 2017 :  08:17:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill,

Just spent 30 minutes catching up....

Very sorry to hear about your dog. It's amazing how much of a part of the family they are.

Regarding the TA - Great progress. Can't wait to hear about the final coat. I suspect you really are going to do it yourself !
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 27 Jul 2017 :  11:10:32 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike T, Mike M, Mark and Brian, I sincerely thank you for your condolences. Buddy boy is sorely missed.

Progress is being made on the car, but it is slow going for me. What one would think that a simple, straight forward operation like installing rear speakers would take a couple of hours; I've spent 6 hours on it so far.

The new 6 x 9 rear speakers are mounted in the rear deck. AcoustiShield insulation has been trimmed to fit the oval speaker holes in the deck and some of the aluminum foil that is on the top side of this insulation was trimmed back so it can't been seen through the circle perforations in the package tray. I was in and out of the back seat numerous times getting the fit just right. None of this will be glued down until the car has electric running so I can test the radio and speakers.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 27 Jul 2017 :  12:21:31 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I feel you on how fast things SHOULD go. I'm shooting my two tone doors. I thought i could mask off the smaller color and be on the other color in like an hour. That was yesterday at 5, still working, still haven't shot them. Slowly forward i guess.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 28 Jul 2017 :  09:04:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Brian R

Bill,

Just spent 30 minutes catching up....

Very sorry to hear about your dog. It's amazing how much of a part of the family they are.

Regarding the TA - Great progress. Can't wait to hear about the final coat. I suspect you really are going to do it yourself !



Ditto what Bill said, I'm just now catching up and reading through all I've missed. Sorry about Buddy.

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 28 Jul 2017 :  2:26:33 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
"My get up and go, got up and went." Fortunately, I'm kind of forced to take a break from the car grind as our grand kids invade our home this Sunday. The pool water is perfect now, so they will be hanging outdoors soaking up the sun and texting their friends about the size of the ripples in the pool.

Our dogs are sure to break out of their depression and will bark and carry on watching the kids in the pool. It will be the liveliest it has been in weeks around here. Maybe the break will re-invigorate me too.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 29 Jul 2017 :  10:24:58 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
What a difference another day and a good night's sleep will do for one's energy level. It helped me.

Update: Saturday 29 July 2017

This morning, up early and began focusing on more interior parts. The sail panels, lower rear side panels and some molding trim need to be dyed camel tan. The sail panels and lower rear side panels are new. While the lower rear side panels were ordered in camel tan, the plastic is too pinkish--so they will be dyed. Everything will need to be cleaned up to rid the plastic of any contaminants left over from the manufacturing process. Then each plastic part will get a light dusting of camel tan and then 3-4 light coats. Afterwards, each will get 3 light coats of low luster clear to get the correct OEM sheen. The dye and clear are SEM products.

The center console vinyl is in excellent condition, however; I believe the vinyl has darkened over the past 38 years. I'll clean it up and see what difference there is between the newly dyed sail panel and the center console. If the difference is quite noticeable, I'll freshen up the console.

More to come...stand by.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3406 Posts

Posted - 30 Jul 2017 :  12:32:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
some times a glass of water perks me up.


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 05 Aug 2017 :  2:14:27 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
With my enthusiasm returned, another interruption!

My wife and I left for Disney World on Monday with the grand kids. We got back yesterday around 5 pm after braving Splash Mountain, Thunder Mountain, Pirates of the Caribbean, Carousel of Progress (saw it in 64 at the NY World's Fair) and the multitudes of hot sweaty 30 somethings pushing kiddie carts, carriages, wearing heavy back packs, and donning wet weather gear while they waited in long lines with their brood of children to get into the most popular attractions in the Magic Kingdom. We averaged 50 minutes per attraction when not using the Fast Pass option which typically cut wait down by half. BTW, that was only one park. EPCOT was busy too but the heavy rains curtailed much outside activity for an hour to two hours at a time.

My wallet is slimmer (once again) but the grand kids had a great time overall. They buzzed about it all the way home...so I know they really enjoyed themselves.

Why am I including the above in my project progress? Well, it is that sort of delay that interrupts things--family stuff--it's part of life. Sometimes it's bad things, illness, accidents, losing a job, getting divorced, or cool things like getting married, HS and college graduations and so on. Fortunately, this week's delay was good because it was with grand kids and they know grandma and grandpa are fun people.

++++++++
Update: Saturday 5 August 2017

Interior work temporarily postponed! Weather is fair so, back to the body.

Today, I've been block sanding the passenger side rear quarter panel and the passenger door. Guide coats reveal several areas that need just a little more work to get everything straight. Skim coats of body filler will be added to those needy areas and sanded again. Once that's complete, I'll move on to the other side of the car. I hope to get both side done and ready for more primer in the next couple of days.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 06 Aug 2017 :  7:38:13 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bill, i have been using the below recently on recommendation from my local supplier. It's good stuff, it dries so smooth and without pinholes that it's glossy. Knocks down quickly with 180 and then i 320 it smooth. Lots of little imperfections in the 56, around emblems or past repairs or whatnot, and i have to say i'm a fan, none of the issues you had prior to using the honey + filler:

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/usc-icing-lite-gold-finishing-glaze-26012-p-30946.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_JrMBRDPARIsACis1Hx2FeFYIecQJpeteTbOFvkmWuYQKIe96x-CmnJzk7N2nysR0Pk-yRsaAvGlEALw_wcB

My back garage is pretty much a paint booth now. Exhaust fan, $20 florescent lights strung along the walls. A screen door with furnace filter blue material as a filtered inlet to keep the bugs out. The inside and outside of all 4 doors, hood, trunk lid and inside of the trunk are done. Been sanding all week, might be ready for the first color wednesdayish. I'm not going quite as far as you: Straightening chips and imperfections, down to metal in some spots, spot primering those spots, sanding 320/400 and 600, shooting color and clear. Not doing another coat of primer in between unless i break through (since the factory paint is still there). That factory red oxide is tough stuff! This car won't be quite at the level of yours when done, i'm hoping to avoid wetsanding the whole car for the mirror finish i have in the truck, but i guess it could be done later. It took me a few weeks and tries, but i got a new tekna copper gun and got it dialed in, and settings recorded, so i can paint reliably and uniform in the 75-85 degree heat we've been seeing.

I have a feeling before too long you'll be in the same boat.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 07 Aug 2017 :  09:10:36 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike--just finished applying a skim coat of Evercoat Gold on several spot locations on the passenger door and rear quarter panel. It should be cured enough to sand in 20 minutes or so.

The Evercoat Gold seems to work pretty well when mixed with their Honey to thin the product. There's about 1/2 quart left of this stuff but don't know how far it will go with other panels left to be touched up.

Yesterday, my plans to do the above went awry when my son and daughter in law popped in during the afternoon and stayed through dinner. Family comes first.

If things proceed well today, I'll block sand the other side and go from there. Our grand kids are still here so they need to have grandpa's attention from time-to- time so things may be delayed just a bit.

You seem to be getting things done on the 56. That's good.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 08 Aug 2017 :  10:09:12 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: 8 August 2017

I'm still working on the fenders and doors, both sides now. I've blocked sanded and touched up some areas with body filler. The high areas I spotted where given the old hammer and punch taps and then glazed over with filler. While I found few areas that were either high or low with the guide coat, I did one additional verifying step to see if my work was doing the job. I applied a wet coat of Prep-Sol to the area with a towel. When it goes on it goes on wet, and the reflection on the surface reveals anything the guide coat and block sanding failed to reveal.

It appears I got most of the spots but see that a little more fixing is needed. This process is s-l-o-w and tedious but I believe it will be worth it in the long run.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 09 Aug 2017 2:06:17 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 09 Aug 2017 :  2:38:31 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Wednesday 9 August 2017

I spotted a high spot on the left rear quarter below the horizontal design line. This slight protrusion was when something I was transporting inside the trunk (years ago) shifted and struck the quarter panel. To solve this, I broke out the body shop tools and tapped on the high point until the high spot was gone. A little body filler was applied on the area and sanded.

The driver's side sail panel/roof seam was next. The seam had been worked many months ago and I got the contour looking pretty good. Today's effort was to get the contour more exact and ready for another coat of primer. With all the block sanding performed, even with the shop vac handy and being used frequently to suck up much of the sanding dust, the garage is quite a mess. The garage needs some quality housekeeping.

Once all the sanding and housekeeping is performed, the car will need to be masked off (again) so it can get more primer filler. Then everything gets sanded again with finer paper and ready for the sealer.

Some say that a sealer is not necessary when the car is stripped of all its paint and substrates of epoxy and primer are applied. My intention is to go the extra step (and expense) to apply 2 coats of sealer to the primer. The sealer will segregate the softer primer from the color coats and that will also aid in adhesion of the color coats. It also avoids having to apply more coats of color. Typically, sealer is applied immediately before color coats. However, in my situation, the sealer will have to be wet sanded because I know there will be a delay in shooting color.

Is it 5 o'clock yet? Because I could really use a cold one.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7218 Posts

Posted - 10 Aug 2017 :  10:13:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've had to catch up on your project as well, Bill. I'm so sorry to hear about Buddy.
Re: the T/A, wow you've been making steady progress. I should have shipped Rockford to YOU!

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 12 Aug 2017 :  10:55:40 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Saturday 12 August 2017

Rain the past few days...today is bright and sunny so the hood is on a stand being block sanded some more. It's coming out nice. A few low areas have been skim coated with filler and are curing as this is being typed. In a while, I'll be back at it getting those low areas uniform with the rest of the hood. If no further filler is needed, the hood will be ready for another coat of primer.

So, both fenders, trunk lid, doors and rear quarter panels have been block sanded. The roof will be last in this exercise. I believe the roof is in very good shape and don't expect to apply much filler, if any, to it. The only areas that may require a little more filler are the roof seams. I'll know more when my focus is entirely on the area.

Inching my way to another coat of primer on these parts.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 13 Aug 2017 :  12:07:41 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Sunday 13 August 2017

Completed block sanding of the hood this morning. Tomorrow (weather permitting) two coats of gray primer filler will be shot on the hood. Other parts may get primed as well.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 14 Aug 2017 :  2:53:41 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Monday 14 August 2017

A sunny day...a chance to make some more progress.

Bellow are 8 photos showing the work I've performed on the hood over the past several days. This morning, 2 coats of primer were shot after block sanding and correcting minor flaws on the hood surface days earlier.


















"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 14 Aug 2017 :  4:16:35 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
LESSONS LEARNED

I wasn't going to write anything about my encounter with Axalta Coatings Customer Service, but it's been grating on me since the call to them was made earlier today.

First off, while I'm a hobbyist, this is the 6th car that I've painted. This spans over 48 years. During that time paint chemicals and ingredients have changed. So, I'm no paint expert, but not exactly a novice either. I chose Dupont now Axalta Coatings because I've had good luck with their painting systems.

Some background: I owned a car that was red. The paint was new, as was the car, but the paint from the factory was awful. There were sections on the car's body that faded out in the Florida sun. The car was returned and those bad panels were repainted. Within a few short months the same red paint was fading again. It was time for me to apply my newly learned skill of spray painting. My father had taught me how to use a Binks gun and I used it spraying yachts.

Upset with my crappy looking car's paint, I decided to strip it off and repaint the car. I choose Dupont. Not knowing much about the automotive painting process, I relied heavily on the old fellow behind the counter at the paint supply company. I was about 19 then and he was in his 60s. I followed his lead and purchased the materials he recommended. What I learned from trial and error was later corrected by this old fellow.

When applying the acrylic lacquer primer, the heat of the day was causing the primer not to flow but kind of spackle from the gun. The entire surface would be sanded smooth, but I didn't like this surface. The old fellow behind the counter was told about my dilemma and recommended an additive that slowed the drying process of the lacquer. Instead of instantly drying the additive allowed the paint to hit the surface of the hot metal and be wet for a minute or two before it started to cure. This allowed the surface to be smooth.

In later years of painting lacquer, this information helped me avoid having primer lay down rough. The primer used in 93 on the TA flowed as it should and the primer was smooth to the touch when dry.

With this in mind, I purchased Chroma Premier Pro 33430s Productive Primer Filler. Okay, what's in a name? Seeing the words "Pro" and "Productive" and reading the info about the product, this looked to be the best quality primer they offered. Today, I learned that in my situation, painting in a garage and not in a paint booth, this product was designed for shop production--quick work. Consequently, the ingredients were designed to flash quickly. In a somewhat controlled environment like a paint booth, this product goes on easily and flows leaving a smooth finish. In a hot, South Florida climate it would do fine in a booth, but not too good in a garage or outside of a garage. Again, I learned this today.

What irks me is the attitude of the customer service rep. I told him what I was trying to do, and was unhappy with the way the paint laid down on the body of my car. It should have been pretty smooth. He informed me, like I was a freaking idiot that had no idea what I was doing. When I asked him about the next product I was going to use, he became more flippant with me, like he had a burr under his saddle or something. I asked about using the right sealer that would flow smoothly. He gave me the information, but again he was leaving off what he was thinking to himself--that I was an A*&&%$@ painting my car.

Should I dare to ask about color coat? Yes, I did. He became agitated with my question so I cut him off and said that I'd call back at a later date when the stars where in proper alignment.

The primer I applied this morning was shot before 9 am. The mixture was exact. The HVLP was set correctly, and my arm control was not lacking while doing it. Yet, the surface is a bit rough. It could never be not sanded. It needs sanding and will be sanded for the sealer which is not to be sanded.

If I could change midstream to another paint system like PPG, I would, but mixing systems is asking for problems.

Because of this bad experience, I can't and won't recommend Axalta to any of you.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 14 Aug 2017 :  5:11:18 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That doesn't surprise me, they tell you that you can't mix hardners or reducers but the local axalta jobber won't sell me the "right" additives because they're so pricey they don't carry them; even the local body shops don't use them. What they say and what you actually do in the shop are usually two different things. I agree that everything is made to dry right now, right now, right now! Seam sealer dry in 15 min, primer ready to sand in 20 min, bondo ready to sand in 15 min.

You may have gotten a bad rep. I've only called a couple times and not been treated poorly (although they were pretty annoyed by my using nason hardner in centari paint...) I've also had the local jobber call if i had a weird question or formula to work up.

On the mixing paint systems, LOTS of guys mix, especially the clear. Very common to see guys using, say, epoxy primer, 2k primer, and BC from one company and then SPI's clear. I've used the nason 2k primer over 320 sanded previous paint, then chromebase or whatever over that, and then whatever clear i decided to play with. honestly, no issues. I know they say they won't warranty something if something bad happens, but let's be honest: They're going to wiggle out of the warranty anyways saying it was a prep issue, or reimburse you the cost of materials which isn't anything compared to the work in fixing it.

On a different subject, i see you going like crazy on sanding between everything. What's your basic order of materials on this car? Generally, it's epoxy primer, bondo and filler primer, sealer, paint, clear. I've cheated with 400, spot prime any sandthroughs, 600, paint, clear. We did my amazing truck with 320, 2k nason primer, centari single stage and then clear while it was still wet. A couple of those you put on "Wet on wet" and sanding isn't recommended or needed (i know the dupont DTM epoxy we used on a project wasn't to be sanded and was a HUGE PITA to sand if you got past the window.)

I feel you're working yourself to death sanding between coats of things that maybe you don't have to. Then again, every little but of effort makes the finished project better than the next guy. I can tell you for sure the two sanding steps that REALLY make a difference: Blocking with a long block on that last coat of primer before paint or sealer (this is around guidecoat time), depending on your product, and wetsanding with a block again after clear before buffing. Both of those will give you a mirror you can honestly read fine print out of.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 15 Aug 2017 :  11:34:00 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Morning of 15 August 2017

Got up early and set up to shoot more primer on the fenders following block sanding. Applied two coats. All previous sanding scratches are now gone and that's a positive. Also shot the shaker with 2 coats.

I'm getting close to the bottom of the gallon of primer and will need to purchase more to complete the rest of the car with two coats. The stuff is expensive.


These parts will cure for a few days before they get sanded with 400 grit paper. This grit provides a good foundation yet a smooth surface for the sealer that will go on next.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 21 Aug 2017 :  12:54:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Monday 21 August 2017, the day of the total eclipse

On Friday, the hood was sanded with 400 grit paper. This morning the trunk lid and passenger fender were sanded. However, the bottom of the fender where it wraps near the door jamb didn't get an adequate amount of primer so it will get spot primed and sanded tomorrow (weather permitting). Later in the week, I will sand the roof and remaining body panels.

Note: I'm using P400 paper that sticks to my Dura-Blocks. The adhesive on the Mirka brand paper is not as sticky as the adhesive on the 80 and 180 paper. The fine sanding dust from the 400 tends to cause the adhesive to fail in short order. The 400 paper also fills quickly and requires changing every 2 minutes of use.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 21 Aug 2017 :  10:32:22 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Wetsand man, that keeps the paper going a lot longer, and better finish. Get one of the silcone water blades. I sand outside with a garden hose when panel is off. Hose down sand some, hose off, water blade one pass makes it dry, check, keep moving.

It's messy but the dust is on the floor as slurry instead of all over, and you can make much faster sanding progress. Sanding is easier, you move quicker, finish is better, and way less paper used. Also, i find the adhesive doesn't stop sticking in 5 minutes. In fact it almost holds too well, ripping when you go to change.

I just got done wetsanding the 56 to 5000, doing buffing now. I feel you working in this heat!
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 21 Aug 2017 :  10:32:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
One of these water blades:

http://www.autozone.com/wash-mitts-chamois-and-other-wash-and-wax-accessories/wash-mitts-sponges-and-squeeges/pilot-automotive-california-jelly-water-blade/265392_0_0?cmpid=PS:3:3:1&s_kwcid=AL!5142!3!193263437919!!!!327935744844!&ef_id=VKxdTwAABDkjzXwu:20170822023238:s
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 22 Aug 2017 :  07:30:50 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Mike--Thanks for your comments.

Shaping is done but I'm still looking for imperfections in the surface. Spot priming those areas when they are located.

When all of the 400 dry sanding is done, I'll re-examine the surface again for imperfections and go from there.

Our weather has been stormy all night and it's still raining as this is being typed. This may be a down day for me.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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