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js292
Sitting Bull

USA
128 Posts

Posted - 17 Apr 2017 :  2:38:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My fiberglass rear spoiler is mismatched as well,so a fiberglass part (if available) may not have been any better.



71 Formula 455
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Admin
Ye Olde Webmaster

847 Posts

Posted - 18 Apr 2017 :  11:53:25 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Update: Tuesday 18 April 2017

This morning Aircraft paint remover for fiberglass was applied by brush to the fiberglass rear spoiler. The goop needs to remain wet so lots of coats were added before the scrapper was put into use. My trusty Stanley saw horses were set up outside the garage and a 3/4" 34" x 34" piece of plywood was set upon the two horse. As before, the scrapings would be placed in a bankers box cover with paper on the bottom so when it was time to clean up all of the old finish-remover it could be rolled up and discarded. A small throw-away brush was used to apply the coats.

Probably too much detail, but this piece was in good shape when I re-finished the car in '92-93. The spoiler was sanded then with several grades of Wet and Dry sandpaper to get ready for the following: A primer, red sealer, color coat and clear (all DuPont).

So, what was stripped from the spoiler? All of these were removed with the paint remover. I got down to the original painted surface which was still hard and in good shape. Repeat applications of the remover and a little elbow grease with the plastic scraper got it pretty smooth.

Clean up was simple. The spoiler was washed off with water from the hose and wiped clean a few times with paper towels. The remover is neutralized with water. The water also allowed me to see areas that definitely needed some sandpaper. The next thing was to dry it off and proceed to lightly sand the spoiler. I used 120 and 220 grit. All paint dust was removed with Prep-sol on a paper towel. This got most of the dust off and I could see where there was a need for a little body filler--imperfections in the spoiler from the factory. These will be treated before the first coat of primer. I started today's work at 7:30 am and closed the garage door at 11:35 am. Enough for today.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 19 Apr 2017 :  10:31:05 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Wednesday 19 April 2017

Disassembled the taillight housing separating the outer smoked lens from the inner lens and housing and cleaned up all these parts. The gas door mechanism is off. There was some minor rust on the metal edges and around the mounting holes, that was it. So, it will be treated with some fresh gloss paint and remounted on the tail light. The primer coat is drying right now.


++++++
Just to point out: The rear of the TA where the taillights mount is interesting. It's easy to see that Pontiac wasn't indulging in painting the body uniformly. The exterior of the car is GM 29, Nocturne Blue. Several passes of the spray gun is necessary to get the correct shade of top coat. However, the rear of the car never got much paint. Just enough to prevent rust but not enough to match the exposed body panels etc. I was debating whether this area should be painted. There is no rust anywhere and the rear bumper cover and tail lights cover the unexposed area so I'm leaving well enough alone.

+++++
I've had a change of position concerning my cracked dashboard. The new dash cover purchased last year will not be used. My intent is to purchase a full reproduction unit and install it. We shall see....

Just contacted Ames and the full dash is still scarce and virtually unavailable. I am on the waiting list along with 91 others. I'm not happy about this to say the least. It could be several years I was told before one is earmarked for me. How pathetic is that.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 19 Apr 2017 11:30:41 AM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 19 Apr 2017 :  2:15:50 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Maybe a trip to just dashes is in order vs waiting for a repop?
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 20 Apr 2017 :  5:29:00 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Thursday 20 April 2017

Events around my garage led me to do something that needed to be done--that is--conduct a full inventory of new parts. My focus was on the interior parts.

All boxes were gone through and contents noted. What I was afraid was going to happen was buying parts that I had already purchased, 2 or 3 years earlier, that I had forgotten about.

As a result, the parts list of "present new parts" showed me what was left to order. Today, a number of items were ordered. The biggest item, however, was not an interior part, it was a new Stainless Steel gas tank with all relevant parts to include a new sending unit.

Why a new tank? My old tank had a long term problem that made me feel quite uncomfortable for safety reasons. The neck at the tank had a small crack that leaked fuel when the tank was full. Bad news. So, it was time to get a replacement. A new SS tank isn't exactly OEM but it will look nice for a long time and the new sending unit should straighten out a vacillating gas gauge.

As for working on the car itself, nothing today. Tomorrow, I plan to work on the new front bumper cover. It needs to be prepped for primer.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 21 Apr 2017 :  11:42:46 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Friday 21 April 2017

This morning I used a Scotch-Brite ultra fine scuff pad (gray) with water and SEM Scuffing paste to clean the raw urethane bumper cover. The goal was to clean the surface as well as scuff the plastic to a nice dull finish. Particular attention was paid to various curves and crevices. It was cleaned up with water and towels, scuffed again and cleaned once more. It now appears to be adequately dull for the next step.

Of note was the fact that the cover needs to "unfold" a bit from storage and traveling to my home. It is outside in the bright sun right now with a few helper braces to get the shape closer to what is should be.

Of note also is that the grill holes are not drilled for the hardware clips. That will be done later on.

Seeing the bumper all scuffed and clean, I inserted the two old grill pieces to see how they fit. Fit was quite imperfect. It is very likely that a new L and R grill is in my future. The old ones are warped, misshapen and the plastic is breaking down. They will be thirty-eight years old next month.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 22 Apr 2017 :  12:06:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Saturday 22 April 2017

Installed and aligned the taillights this morning. The alignment is better than in the past, but not at all up to the standards of today's cars.

Went through my "pieces-parts" boxes containing all the little baggies with parts for the car that were removed. Each baggie contains a brief description of the pieces and where they go. I'm glad I did that, it will help me immensely on reassembly.

Since I was working on the rear of the TA I found the rear bumper hardware including the old plastic retainers that hold the rear bumper cover to the steel bumper. Those little plastic retainers are no good so new ones are needed. All the steel hardware for the bumper was cleaned up by putting them under a wire wheel, washing them with acetone and giving them a couple of coats of clear lacquer. That should protect them from tarnishing and thwarting rust and corrosion for a while.

Unhappy with the old grills, the L and R grille pieces were ordered late yesterday afternoon.. They will arrive next week so, I will have new pieces to go with the new front bumper cover.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 24 Apr 2017 :  10:25:51 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: 24 April 2017

I'm tired this morning. Our male dog has had digestive problems on and off for a month and asked to go out at 1:50 am, then later at 5:30 am. Yesterday I was up early to attend a car show that wound up being rained out. It poured almost the entire day--not typical weather here. So, I could use a couple of hours extra sleep to rebound.

Anyway, this morning the last piece of metal was striped of paint. It's the small rear panel that fits between the rear window and the trunk lid. It's all cleaned up--shinny metal--and will be treated with 4:1 vinegar and water like a did with other metal body parts. When time allows, I'll move stuff around in the garage, break out the compressor, spray gun and shoot the piece with a couple of coats of gray epoxy primer.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 25 Apr 2017 :  2:44:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Below are two photos of the panel described above that fits between the back window and the trunk lid.

All of the paint has been removed from the piece and a mixture of 4 parts vinegar to 1 part one was made and applied to it. Chemical reaction takes places within minutes...the metal will turn rust color. Once on there it could be wiped off immediately and dried and epoxy coatings applied to protect the metal from rust. Keeping the rust color vinegar mix on for several days will prevent the metal from getting surface rust When ready, use a sponge and fresh water and wipe it all away. Once fully dry it can be coated.






"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 25 Apr 2017 2:45:38 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 26 Apr 2017 :  06:32:52 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
26 April 2017

Wow...I just realized that 2 years ago today, the TA's hood was coated with epoxy. It's been leaning against my garage wall (covered) since then. I guess the epoxy has cured.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 26 Apr 2017 :  09:19:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 26 Apr 2017 :  8:50:35 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: 26 April 2017

Today the two "A" pilar moldings (metal) were cleaned up. They were in very good shape color-wise, however, one area mostly exposed to sunlight on the windshield side had discolored so both were painted Camel Tan and now look crisp.

The top interior moldings that run along the top of the window on each door posed a problem. New replacement moldings are available but Steve Ames, in his catalog, recommends re-using the original GM pieces if possible as the replacement parts are of poor quality. I know the originals fit, so, these molding were cleaned up and repainted with SEM Camel Tan plastic coating and then coated with SEM low luster clear coat. Hopefully, this treatment will slow the plastics deterioration. These pieces had been painted in '93 and even at that time were beginning to break down. So, I will keep my eye on re-newing these pieces provided the quality improves. Who knows?

The two sail panels as well as the lower arm rest panels for the rear seat will need to be cleaned, treated and painted with SEM Camel Tan and the low luster clear. I hope to do both this week.

I have to laugh. My garage is beginning to look like a meat locker because I have many pieces clean and painted "hanging from the rafters." This was my only solution as space is very cramped. One has to improvise when space is limited.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7218 Posts

Posted - 27 Apr 2017 :  08:46:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's interesting about the vinegar, I'll have to try to out. Things are moving along in the Boyle garage!

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 27 Apr 2017 :  09:57:04 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Thursday 27 April 2017

This morning, the "bun" plastic on the driver's seat was removed and the seat mechanism examined. The mechanism was detached from the seat frame (4 bolts) and the surface rust was hit with the wire wheel, cleaned, and treated with coats of Kyrlon clear. The 4 ball bearings that work the slide were lubed as well. The seat operated smoothly when the car was new, but since I was the only person driving it, the mechanism kind of settled into one driving position. Moving it became erratic. Hopefully the lube will improve that operation, at least for a while.

By the way, I found an upholstery shop that will recover my seats, front and rear. New seat and back foam will be used on both buckets and in the rear I'm staying with the original foam. Few people sat in the back seat so the foam is not deformed from use. It appears to be sturdy and firm. I will be providing the seat covers (Legendary) and bucket seat foam to the shop. [The door panels, seat covers and foam are on my "to order" list. ]

Our South Florida weather has moved from "winter" to spring with a morning filled with humidity. It's been quite mild for the past several months...I expect the humidity and temperature to equal one another in the coming weeks. I know, "don't sweat it."

Bill


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 27 Apr 2017 :  10:25:03 AM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Glad to see this moving along! You've motivated me to get around to painting my 56. It's at the body shop getting 3 rust spots replaced, then i guess i'll have to get out in the garage and start sanding, can't let you have all the fun!
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2017 :  08:31:54 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: 28 April 2017

Performed and update this morning to my parts inventory based on deliveries received yesterday.

Today, I'll do "house keeping" and re-locate things in the garage so I can access my compressor, paint equipment and supplies. I hope to shoot flexible primer on all the urethane pieces (front and rear covers and spoilers) this weekend if the weather holds.

BTW, the new grills are of very good quality. They are in a raw state and I'm pretty certain they were not mounted in a raw state. They are either coated with flat or semi-gloss paint--not sure which--because the old ones are quite weathered.

Bill


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 28 Apr 2017 08:33:19 AM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2017 :  3:15:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
As Gomer Pyle would say, "surprise, surprise, surprise."

My shinny new stainless steel gas tank was delivered this afternoon...days earlier than expected.

Tomorrow, I plan on shooting all my exterior urethane parts...weather looks good.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7218 Posts

Posted - 29 Apr 2017 :  08:43:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Excellent work Bill. Where'd you get the grills, Ames?

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 29 Apr 2017 :  12:15:04 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: 29 April 2017

Yes, the grills were purchased at Ames.

This morning, I broke out the spray equipment and set up to shoot the rear bumper cover. It was given the once over with SEM plastic cleaner and wiped dry. Then I poured 12 oz of SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer into my cup.

I gave a few test shots on a practice sheet and didn't like the fan or amount of product coming from the gun. As a result, the spray gun was disassembled and re-cleaned. There was some visible areas of epoxy primer that was cleaned up with acetone. Then I changed the tip from 1.5 to 1.8 and got the primer to flow through the gun.

What I noticed on the test sheet was that the pressure was too low and the primer was not flowing. Several adjustments were made and I got a decent pattern. The bumper cover got two coats. The first was a medium wet coat and it flowed pretty well, covering adequately and filling scratches in the urethane. A second coat was given about 15 minutes later and I wasn't happen with the product. In that short period of time, the outside temperature rose just enough so the primer came out almost dry. I played with pressure and fluid controls and nothing really helped. I had the same problem many years ago (in the 60s) shooting acrylic lacquer when I didn't have a retarder that would slow the drying process.

The SEM flexible primer surfacer for urethane is a no-mix product that comes ready to shoot. This may be true for the best of conditions but doesn't take into account the humidity and rising temperatures happening in South Florida.

When the product is too dry, it is drying almost coming out of the gun and lands on your surface in a way that gives a rough crinkle finish to the surface. The epoxy primer used previously to protect the metal on the car after removing all the paint from it, went on as it should and the reducer that was part of the mix allowed the material to flow, dry and cure after it was on the surface. Retarder is very helpful, to say the least.

After shooting the rear bumper, I decided it was too humid and hot to shoot the spoiler as I intended to do. Instead, the spray gun was disassemble and cleaned. [Boy, that is one aspect of painting that I really dislike.]

About an hour later, I got 320 grit Wet & Dry sandpaper and lightly sanded the cover. Using water and a light touch, the cover turned out baby-butt smooth and is probably ready for color coats (which will happen eventually).

Depending on the weather, I may attempt to prime the urethane spoilers between 6 and 7 pm tonight when the temperature and humidity are likely dropping off.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 29 Apr 2017 8:55:55 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 29 Apr 2017 :  7:54:15 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Evening Update: 29 April 2017

As I stated earlier, it was too hot to shoot this SEM Flexible primer surfacer so I waited until 5:30 pm to give it another try. IMO the temperature and humidity greatly effects this product and while it seemed easier to shoot with less crinkling, I'd have to give it only a "C-" rating. If the product had a retarder that slowed the dry time it would probably flow better on to the plastic surfaces and give a smoother finish before sanding. Here's what I did--

I shot the front air dam (this needs more work because of various dings etc from road debris) the two front wheel spoilers, the two rear ones, and the end caps for the rear spoiler. All of these pieces (except the air dam) need to be sanded smooth before the next coat of whatever I decide to put on it. The SEM primer surfacer may be the first substrate and I may follow it with the same primer I'll use on the metal surfaces of the car.

The air dam will get some body work to it, filling in rash marks, some pitting, scratches and the like. That will be sanded smooth and another coating of SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer will be applied, then sanded smooth.

The front bumper cover (nose fascia) was left for another day.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 29 Apr 2017 8:57:45 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 01 May 2017 :  11:08:49 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: 1 May 2017

Notice: Eastwood's Premium Contour body filler is not a product that I can recommend. It has proven to be:

1. Difficult to spread because it is thick and not very pliable.
2. Working time is extremely short as it begins to harden immediately.
3. The alleged curing time to sand the filler is extremely inaccurate.
4. Even when an excessive amount of time is allowed before sanding--1 hour, 2 hours etc, the filler sands very poorly and gums up paper. Way too much time is expended trying to smooth out the filler with sandpaper, no matter the grit.

5. Adding Eastwood's glazing putty does improve the spreading of the filler but not enough to do anything other than small areas. Working time is extremely short --maybe 2 minutes at best.
+++++++

My front air dam needed to have some filler to repair damage from debris. The product was mixed with just a dab of catalyst and within seconds, the fillerl was thickening. I quickly applied it to several areas on the air dam completing my application in one minute or less...and the stuff was barely spreadable towards the end of that minute.

One hour later...efforts were made to block sand the air dam with 220 grit. The filler was gummy and would not sand. Another 20 minutes later...same problem. Another 15 minutes...same issue but I kept sanding using more and more sandpaper. Angry as hell, I became so frustrated that I used a Scotch-Brite pad with acetone and rubbed the filler until all of it came off but for some filler left in minor scratches. Then I applied water and 320 W and D and sanded everything smooth. The air dam needs more work but not with this product!

Following this, the remaining 2 quarts of the gallon of Eastwood's Premium Contour body filler was swiftly deposited into the trash.

It is obvious that this produce is made by someone and sold under the Eastwood banner. I have no idea who manufactures it, but it is a poor product.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 01 May 2017 :  1:12:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've ordered this product: http://3mcollision.com/media/pdf/QG_Filler_Final_NPI_Flyer_1.pdf

3M says it's quick to grip and very easy to sand. 3M Quick Grip Filler #33177

It's got to be better than the other one I just trashed.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 01 May 2017 :  7:54:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've downloaded a few photo of previous work and two are below. The first photo is of the prepped rear bumper cover. It was stripped of all paint from my refinish job from '93 and sits awaiting the first coat of SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer. The second photo was taken minutes following the first wet coat of the product. A second coat was shot adding more primer. I wasn't happy with the second coating as it went on too dry. No photo of that. The cover was later wet sanded and came out nice.





"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 01 May 2017 7:55:14 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 03 May 2017 :  3:20:03 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Wednesday 3 May 2017

UPS made yet another parts delivery to the house this afternoon. This time he delivered among other things, the 3M 33177 quart of Quick Grip Filler. (The gallon version has a different part number.)

My plan is to try this "new" body filler on the front air dam to fill dings, scratches and abrasions on the urethane. When it's dry it will be sanded. That will be followed with a light coat of SEM Flexible Primer. Photos will follow.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 03 May 2017 :  8:34:03 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The 3M Quick Grip Filler works great. With the blue catalyst mixed the filler turns a very light blue. Working time is a little longer than the Eastwood product used before so you still have to work quickly to get a thin, smooth film. The cure time is extremely fast. The instructions indicate sanding in 20 minutes, however, 10-12 is enough. The filler block sanded easily and there was no gumming up of the paper. (Using 100 grit) What a pleasant difference! So far, so good.

More to do on the air dam to get it just right. Lots of little scratches and other blemishes to fill and sand smooth so they disappear (see close up--last photo).












"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 04 May 2017 :  09:53:23 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Thursday morning 4 May 2017

Old habits are hard to break. During my military career, rising early became a habit. After retiring from the service, I thought that my getting up early would slowly change to a more decent hour. I suppose it did, somewhat. Instead of rising at 4 am, it is now a 4:55 am thing. In a way this allows me an early start on things that need to be done. With temperatures rising quickly each day, the early morning hours gives me some reasonable temperatures to work in.

Today, I was back working the front air dam. I applied the new 3M product again and learned that the amount of catalyst makes a difference. After "kneading" the tube, a tiny amount of catalyst was mixed in with the filler. A larger dab would have been better as the filler took longer to harden so it could be block sanded.

I relate these missteps to all of you because trial and error is a frustrating process to deal with and learning about something that can minimize a misstep is a positive thing. It is also a reminder to me as I type this out, on what not to do. Most of us are hobbyists and don't do body work for a living and while I try to do something on an expert level, sometimes my effort falls short--at least the first time. So, it's important to learn and wise up as you encounter things.

Right now, the air dam has been shot with another coat of SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer over the body filler applied this morning on the driver's side. It did sand okay but I waited an hour this time to do it. The primer surfacer allows me to see the blemishes that were missed and what needs a tad more work to get it right. This is where polyester putty comes into play rather than thicker body filler.


"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 04 May 2017 :  7:30:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
This morning I mixed up some Eastwood's Contour polyester glazing putty with catalyst and spread it on the driver's side of the air dam to eliminate some minor blemishes. The product was not creamy, was hard to spread and what was worst--it never cured so it could not be sanded.

The air dam sat for 8 hours before sanding was attempted. All it did was gum up my paper. Now, I have a task of removing this garbage glazing putty and starting over on that side of the air dam. This 24 oz tube of putty is going in the trash. That's a ringing endorsement isn't it. What a waste of money.


====
Here is a video from Eastwood showing how the putty is mixed and applied. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vs4jt6M79W0

HOWEVER, the product that was squeezed out of my tube wasn't fluid like shown in the video; moreover, when mixed, it was terribly difficult to spread. It was not creamy as shown in the video. I wonder if I was sold an out of date product.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 05 May 2017 10:27:09 AM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 05 May 2017 :  1:27:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Friday 5 May 2017

Disappointed...this morning the previously applied Eastwood Contour Glazing Putty was tackled head on. The stuff remained soft and would not sand. Reluctantly, I tried a sharp chisel after scraping some of the putty off with my fingernail. Luckily, this procedure worked and I was able to block sand the air dam, get it smooth and then apply a thin coat of 3M body filler. Twenty minutes later the surface was block sanded with 120 and 320 grit and then given a fresh coat of SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer. There's a couple of faint blemishes which will be taken care of soon.

Today, I placed an order for Evercoat Plastik Honey. This product can be added to most body fillers and glazing putties to make them more pliable. Here's what their promo states:

"The Evercoat Plastik Honey is specifically blended with premium, stain-free and clog-free resin. It is used for thinning all types of body fillers including premium fillers, and also polyester glazing putties. To use it, add a small quantity of Plastik Honey to the filler, prior to adding hardener, and continue to increase the amount until you achieve the desired smoothness.

The Evercoat Plastik Honey improves the spreading properties of fillers and reduces pin holes. It also helps to improve stain resistance, and keeps the filler tack-free. It is perfect for use with Evercoat?s MetalWorks products. This filler thinner can be added to their complete line of products and also to competitors fillers and putties."


How this additive effects cure time and sanding is a question mark. Reviews that I read don't tell the full story.

BTW, please let me know if any of this info is helpful to you. Thanks.

To all--have a great weekend.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 05 May 2017 :  1:34:48 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've heard of the honey product, or adding fiberglass resin to filler for that exact purpose.

Are you putting a primer/sealer over SEM stuff or direct to paint after that? The reason i'm asking is most wouldn't use a non-two part primer under more than a small spot. I have rattle can primer (etching) a few things on projects with no issues a few years later, and SEM has a great reputation. Just didn't know if you were going to go with a catalyzed product over that.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 05 May 2017 :  4:02:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike, it is my intention to apply a primer filler followed by a sealer on all the urethane as well as metal body parts. I'll be shooting Chromapremier primer-filler and later Chromapremier 2K Sealer. After that it will be color and cc.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 05 May 2017 :  4:44:39 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Gotcha, sounds like a winning combination! I just did a bike in chromapremier, although it tried the tamco high solids clear over it vs nason i normally would. regardless, the little bit of chromapremier i've sprayed has come out looking great, certainly with no skill on my part.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 06 May 2017 :  12:34:44 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Saturday morning 6 May 2017

A cold front moved in last night. Early morning temperature was 66--time to get ready and shoot the new front bumper!

Set up outdoors, but wind picked up. Decided to shoot it in the garage. I moved things out of the garage to make space and set up the cover to shoot. Double-checked the cleanliness of the gun and got everything ready....

First I went around the outside of the cover, top, bottom and sides. Then applied a wet coat over the entire piece ensuring the 4 headlight openings were coated thoroughly. Waited a few minutes and applied a second and final coat of SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer. While the material flowed better in the colder temperature, about 72 degrees, I don't think the pre-mix is all that good. The strainers I used collected a lot of heavy filler material and clogged the strainer. In fact, I had to use two strainers to get 12 ounces of material into my spray gun. The primer was stirred for over a minute before this was done and looked to be quite liquid when it was poured into the strainers.

I used a 1.8 tip and probably could have used a 2.0 as this stuff seems to be quick thick.

That's all have to say about it. All the urethane pieces are now coated with the stuff so what goes on next will be Chromapremier primer-filler (Axalta--formerly DuPont product). This primer should go on quite smoothly and require minimal sanding.

Things are progressing.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Admin
Ye Olde Webmaster

847 Posts

Posted - 09 May 2017 :  3:17:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Update: Tuesday 9 May 2017

More parts have been delivered and this morning the Chroma Premier Primer, activator and reducer were purchased. ($$$)

Could it get any worse? Each new delivery of parts makes things crazy for me--there's little room left and no room to work. My garage looks like a hoarder left his "stuff" here.

Since the fenders are off the car and sitting upright in a cart I made for them, working on them next, getting them coated with primer and block sanded so everything is straight is maybe the next practical thing to do. Once they are coated with primer, they can be mounted on the car.

The epoxy primer coating needs to be sanded with 320. Any repairs with body filler should adhere to it pretty well and once sanded smooth and finalized with 320 again, it can get two wet coats of primer. When both fender are done, I'll mount them loosely on the car to get them off the cart. That will free up some space. Then, it will be the hood. Same process to be followed with primer coats and when dry mounted. That is when the fenders and hood will be aligned. (That should be a fun chore. )

This is a tentative plan; subject to change without notice.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 09 May 2017 :  9:22:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You may want to spray those fenders (paint/clear) before they're mounted; I find it hard to get in behind where the door is, under the bolt heads, etc.

Too bad you're so far from ohio! I've been working hard converting my workshop to a better painting area (fantastic air compressor/dryer setup, finally putting exhaust fan and filtered air inlet)
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 10 May 2017 :  1:52:26 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike, I know what you are saying and that is part of my concern. At this time, I know that I can't shoot the sealer, color and cc in my garage. Either I'll find someone, a friend of a friend type thing, who has a spray booth that will allow me to shoot it there or, the job will be given to a shop to do. If I was shooting the car in my garage or in somebody's spray booth, I would shoot all the pieces, eg, fenders, hood, rear and front bumper covers, spoilers etc off the car, to be mounted after the car was shot. All those pieces would either precede painting the body of the car or after it, but on the same day. That would be preferred. However....

To have it done that way by a third party shop, I'd have to bring them all the parts as well as the car, and that would require trailering it to the shop. This is a logistic problem for me as I sold my truck and sold my open trailer.

There is another way, more complicated (what else is new) where I shoot a coat of color and cc on those hard to reach areas, mount the fenders and hood on the car and mask the area off when shooting the rest of the car.

All of this has to be figured out at some point. Right now it's a big question mark.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 10 May 2017 :  2:38:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Wednesday 10 May 2017

Today, the two fenders were removed from their movable stand and sanded with 320 grit paper. Both received wet and dry sanding.

Surprising, I had read that sanding epoxy was problematic because it was so hard. I did not find it difficult to sand. The finish went from a semi gloss sheen to a flat dull gray. Both fenders are getting closer to being shot with primer.

While block and non-block sanding, I saw only two places on one fender that needed to be touched up with a light coat of filler and then sanded. A guide coat helped me spot these little problems.

These 4 photos were taken today.








"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3406 Posts

Posted - 11 May 2017 :  12:12:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill, i have not seen you pictured with a sanding block?


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 11 May 2017 12:13:35 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 11 May 2017 :  2:20:03 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Mark--
No sanding block in my hand in these photos, but I'm using them except on some hard to reach areas or where the contour is forgiving as shown in pictures 1, 2 and 3.

[The sanding block technique is primarily used on filler primers to get the body straight and to detect any high and low areas which can be corrected with a skim coat of body filler and putty. That surface is sanded again and reworked until everything is flat and straight.]

Currently, I'm working on the hood. The epoxy coating is being light sanded with 320 using a long sanding block. On the edges of the fender I'm using a Scotch-Brite pad to scuff the coating because it is flexible. I'm hoping to shoot the hood tomorrow morning and then begin block sanding the primer filler. That will depend on how things progress today.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 11 May 2017 :  2:22:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Those blocks that are the same material as pool noodles? Really flexible? I like to cut one of those down to like 8", they do great for stuff the size and contour of that fender.

Wait till we talk him into wetsanding the clear with the 3m system: 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000. Your air compressor will hate you, but you'll love the finish.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 11 May 2017 :  3:17:48 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike--I can't believe it; just ran out of 3M 320! This was a surprise as I had a big sleeve of the stuff, or so I thought.

I've used up to 2000 grit once or twice, have used 1500, and lots of 600 in the past. I've had to stop--the 3 o'clock sun here is vicious--I get snow blind with the reflection and can't see very well...besides I'm getting tired. Time for some Gatorade.

The Dura Bond sanding block I've been using a lot is 16". I don't have the 24" because there are two many curves on the car to use it well, and, yes, I have those noodle toys too, I have several different sizes and my grand kids think they are for hitting one another in the pool with. Little do they know what I really bought them for.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 11 May 2017 :  5:42:54 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I find the durablock TOO stiff for around curvy surfaces, but what do i know, i'm a novice anyways.

Painting some parts for my father in laws 54 (valve cover, oil pan, air cleaner and what not) in centari SS, and then it's time to tear down the 56 and prep for paint. I feel you on how exhausting it can be! I could never do this for a living.

I'm trying to do everything i can to get the chevy just right, i really don't want to wetsand and buff a whole car again. it would look amazing but jesus is it work. Hoping i can spray the clear nice enough off the gun to walk away.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 12 May 2017 :  1:56:37 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Friday 12 May 2017

Today, I'm working the previous rust repair area near the front of the TA's hood. (See--Part 1, page 6 of this thread for earlier photos.) This area is now being treated with skim coats of body filler and then block sanded. There are several spots that aren't quite right, so I'm taking my time doing it and repeating the skim coats and sanding as necessary.



The weekend will be "down time" for me with no time available to work on the hood. So, Monday will be soonest that I can get back to it.

Sunday is Mother's Day--just a reminder.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 12 May 2017 2:04:29 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 14 May 2017 :  07:26:40 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: 14 May 2017

The rear arm rest panels that were ordered from Ames (previously on back order) finally arrived this past Friday. Both were ordered in Camel Tan to match the originals that had deteriorated beyond hope. However, the replacements have a pink cast to them and don't match the originals in color richness so despite the "Camel Tan" colored appearance, they will be painted along with the sail panels that are in black plastic.

I'll be using the SEM products for correct color and sheen.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 15 May 2017 :  10:00:46 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Product Review: Including Evercoat's Honey Plastik in my mixing of body filler has made a world of difference. The filler becomes far more spreadable with it and it doesn't appear to adversely effect the time it takes for the filler to cure for sanding. I see no down side and recommend it with a two thumbs up.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 18 May 2017 :  09:34:57 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Thursday 18 May 2017

Readied my garage to shoot primer on the hood this morning. After moving a bunch of things outside and actually pouring primer, reducer and catalyst into separate containers (4:1:1 ratio) the sky got real dark...rained out for today.

Loaded everything back into the garage etc to redo another day without rain in the morning.

Bill

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 18 May 2017 :  8:17:43 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Evening Thursday 18 May 2017

After being washed out this morning, light sanding the previously coated new bumper cover seemed like a good idea, at least I'd get something done.

Lesson Learned: Properly scuffing the new urethane plastic is really vital in order to get proper adhesion of SEM Flexible Primer. That was my goal and I spent a long time doing just that, however, while sanding the creases and folds in the opening where the grill mounts (driver's side) the primer cracked and flaked off. Better now than later, for sure--I thought I had done a good job working the corners. I guess not. So, the grill area on the driver's side will need more work. The other side of the bumper will be sanded tomorrow.

Weather is "iffy" for shooting primer tomorrow (on the hood). Rain showers are predicated and the wind is gusting--not a promising forecast. The weekend doesn't look good right now either. I'll have to wait it out.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 18 May 2017 :  10:12:29 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Maybe some adhesion promoter is required in here somewhere?
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 19 May 2017 :  05:35:07 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike,
Per my discussions with SEM rep, their product doesn't require adhesion promoter. When I was ordering all my material, AP was initially included, but I called just to make sure and they told me it was not needed, just proper cleaning and scuffing. That's the key, "proper cleaning and scuffing" of raw urethane plastic.


----
Update: 19 May 2017
It's been raining on and off all night, and it looks like showers today too. No painting planned. Other things to do though. Saturday forecast now looks like a clear, sunny day.


Note: The day cleared up in the afternoon, so the front bumper cover was fully sanded and the areas where the grills mount was reworked by light sanding so flexible primer would stick to the urethane--these were places not scuffed properly by me. All fixed now, and those troublesome areas were re-coated. Everything looks good so the next step would be prep for primer coats. Two light coats should do it.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.

Edited by - Bill Boyle on 20 May 2017 12:58:36 PM
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 20 May 2017 :  12:48:56 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Update: Saturday morning, Armed Forces Day-- 20 May 2017

This morning the TA's hood, wheel spoilers, front and rear, rear spoiler end caps and the front air dam received primer. This product is Axalta's (formerly duPont) Chroma Premier Pro Primer Filler 33430S, Chroma Premier Pro 14301S Activator, and Chroma Premier Pro 14385S Reducer Normal. The mix is 4:1:1. Coats were applied in front of my garage in 83-85 degree temperature. Sixteen ounces of primer were used, 4 ounces of reducer and activator for a 4:1:1 mixing ratio.

Next on my agenda are the two fenders, the front and rear bumper covers, in that order.

Block sanding will follow, starting with the hood. I have a busy week ahead.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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Bill Boyle
Horse Feathers (Charter Member)

USA
4794 Posts

Posted - 22 May 2017 :  8:33:00 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bill Boyle's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Time to post some more photos to catch up.


It's 7:30 am and already 82 degrees.


Primer, activator and reducer in separate containers...to be mixed...but it rained, so it was kept in separate containers until the 20th of May.


This photo was taken on the 20th not the 19th. It was a nice sunny day...a prime day for primer.


This is the area worked and worked--old rust area--getting ready for primer coats.


It takes longer to set up than it does to shoot primer. This coat was just applied and is still wet. Dry time is quick even with the
slowest reducer in play. A controlled environment found in spray booths are superior to shooting primer outdoors--but I have
no choice. Most of us don't.


My son Brian is cleaning the dust off the spoilers using a microfiber towel with simple rubbing alcohol. It dries fast and removes
dust for a smooth, clean surface.


The spoilers were shot with two coats and hung up to dry. Don't look at all the stuff in my garage...it's embarrassing to have so little space to move around and do work.


This is the air dam. Two light coats of primer...it is done. Use less primer on flexible parts.

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

----
400 bored +.030, forged TRW pistons, ported 62 heads, Hedman headers, 2.5 SS dual exhaust X Pypes, Comp 276AH10 cam, Scorpion 1.65 RR, 850 Q-jet, stock intake & tuned HEI; original owner.
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