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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 05 Oct 2015 :  2:59:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello, Relatively New to the Forum, But you guys have already helped me out with a number of things on my car! Just a warning this thread will be picture heavy! And may be boring at times as I explain my journey with this car.

A little about me: Im 19, Attend the University of Northwestern Ohio for their High Performance Motorsports Program.I graduate next May with an Associates degree. I have been into cars since I was old enough to turn a wrench. My Grandfather (Who got me started into this addiction) and I have build several cool street rods as I was growing up, Like a 41 Ford Pickup that we transplanted a new 5.7 HEMI into, a 35 Ford 1 ton with a SBC, and Multiple 1960's era Ford cars (Galaxies, Mustangs, Fairlanes) I eat/sleep/dream cars. All day every day, If I'm not working on a car/truck/motorcyle I'm thinking about it.

Alright, So back in March of this year I sold my little Datsun 280zx. With 1950 bucks in my pocket, I went to craigslist. I was dead set on a Foxbody Mustang, Until I was scrolling through craigslist and found my car! I was actually going to look at a mustang the next day, until I found this car at 2am! Set up a meet with the Seller, and I was sold instantly. The guys story with the car was he had bought it as a project, drove it for a year and a half until he received a speeding ticket for doing 110 down I75 and his wife said no more Firebird. He had 2200 Listed on the Car, I was able to point out a few things wrong with the car, and I drove away with a Forumula 400 for 1900 bucks!

A little about this project: Being the broke college student I am, I need to buy most of my parts second hand or really cheap new. My overall goal for this car is to get it into the 12's. Their is a drag strip about an hour away from me that only charges 10 bucks to race on Friday night test n tune's. It has been quite the learning experience for me, and the seat time this summer sure has helped!

When I picked up the car it had (Still has) a 1973 Pontiac 400 2bbl engine with an edelbrock performer, MSD Distributor, Plugs, Wires, Edelbrock 600 CFM carb, B&M Shifter, B%M 3500 Stall Hole-shot Converter, TH350 With a B&M Shift kit, BRAND NEW TIRES all the way around, Brand New Jegs Aluminum 3 core radiator, New Electric and Mecanical Fan, Headman Headers, and a new B&M trans cooler.
The Day I Picked it up:










The First thing I did was Paint the valve covers and the alternator. I found a rustolem metallic paint that matches my car PERFECTLY!





Everything installed back on the Car:



Used some Wire loom to clean up the rats nest of wiring that was under the engine bay:



Stay tuned Ill keep updating this thread. Lots more Pictures to come!

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.

Edited by - 79FORMULA400 on 05 Oct 2015 3:22:57 PM

79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 05 Oct 2015 :  3:01:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks Like I need to change my way of posting pictures, they are coming out way to big.

[Don't copy and paste the URL containing the word 'user' in the string of code. The other one works. Webmaster.]

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 05 Oct 2015 :  3:19:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Immediately after I bought the car, I did some general maintenance things like new sway bar bushings/end links, new fuel lines, new wiring in places, and a few other odd things.
I drove the car for about 2 months the way it was:



Then it came time for new leaf springs. I am very lucky to live only 2 hours from Summit Racing's retail store. I went up there and bought the new leaf springs (Landrum) a Summit 2801 Cam/Lifters, and ordered a heavy duty leaf spring install kit from Pro Touring F-Body. Here are a Few pictures of the install:




Keep in mind the house we rent doesn't have a garage. Everything I do is done either in my yard or my gravel drive way... DIY at its finest.
You can see in the picture I had to weld a small place that was rotted where the spring perch sits.

This job was a nightmare to do in my driveway... all said and done this job took nearly 20 hours to complete mostly by myself!

Here is how the car sits after the new, non saggy springs:





I finally got around to waxing the car mid summer, this thing really shines now:









[Ahh..fixed it...this looks better. Webmaster.]

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.

Edited by - 79FORMULA400 on 05 Oct 2015 3:24:29 PM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 05 Oct 2015 :  3:42:47 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Like the color, really loved the duck tail spoiler on those years!
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Steve C.
Crazy Horse

1674 Posts

Posted - 05 Oct 2015 :  6:14:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You should be proud, good job.

P.S. If you encounter cooling issues look into a set up with a fan shroud.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  01:49:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok, So after the leaf springs were installed, I went to the drag strip. Previously the best the car had ran bone stock was a 15.2 at 89 MPH. Then came the camshaft. Lots of reading on this forum led me to the Summit 2801 which would work well for a low compression 400. I did the camshaft install in my front yard by myself. I started on Friday Mid day, and was finished by Saturday night. A few lessons I learned along the way:
#1 Tighten down the bolt that goes from the water pump to the intake manifold BEFORE YOU BOLT DOWN THE INTAKE! Yeah, I know I should have been able to figure that one out with a little common sense but hey, first time working on Pontiac's (Grandpa raised and taught me on FE Ford's). That moment when I filled my radiator with water/coolant and coolant was POURING out the back of the water pump was a serious bang head against wall moment...
#2 When swapping the cam in the car, you must unbolt the radiator support brace that runs Vertically from the top of the core support to the bottom. It WILL NOT COME OUT NO MATTER HOW HARD YOU TRY, without taking it out (Yeah, I know what your thinking).
#3 Dont buy the cheap poly locks for the rockers off ebay... You get what you pay for.

Here are a few pictures of the install:
New Comp cams timing set (40$)
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After everything was off:
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After I wrapped all this up, I started the engine, and broke in the new Summit bumpstick. After break-in and and inital test drive with the old Edelbrock 600 I could already tell this thing was starting to come alive.
I bought an old 3310-3 holley off of an instructor at the school for 50 bucks, and then came across a 3310-1 with the rear metering block (Instead of the plate like the -3) for 50 bucks at a swap meet. Basically I took the best parts from both carb's and made 1 decent, cheap carb. All said and done after the rebuild kit and secondary quick change kit/spring kit I'm in the carb 150 bucks.
I plan on a HP main body and a new base plate for this thing sometime in the future. Along with a Wideband 02 with data-logging for tuning/Nitrous purposes.
[/URL]

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.

Edited by - 79FORMULA400 on 06 Oct 2015 02:19:21 AM
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  03:00:16 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok so a little more on the 1/4 mile performance.
First time out back in May of 2015 (also my very first time at a drag strip) the car ran a 15.2 at 89. Even with the stock cam, the car would blow the tires off at the line (Loading it way too much) I have found out that this car really does not need the 3500 stall converter, but hey, its what the car came with.
After the leaf spring install I went back with my buddy and his camaro on my birthday night (July 31st). That night was such a disappointment. The track was having a pro tree challenge, they had 350 cars at this tiny little track in the middle of no where! I made it to the staging lanes by 830 PM. My roommate and I only got to make 1 pass... at 1245 AM! And we were lucky to get in that one pass. After all that waiting the car ran a 15.0 at 90. Few pics of that night:
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It wasn't until this past trip to the strip that I found out the secret to this car: Leave soft and shift early!
This last trip the only things I changed with the car was a set of 70/30 3 way adjustable rear drag shocks (Competition Engineering) and a new approach to driving the car.
I wound up with a best pass of 14.6 at 92 by leaving the line at 15-1600 and shifting out at 4500. Previously I was leaving at 2500 (Blowing off the tires) and shifting at 5000. It also helped that the outside air temp dropped from 80 to 61 degrees by the time I made my pass(es). I believe when I do my transmission swap (2004r) I will go with a 2200 stall converter, I think this could help a bit in the 1/4 with MPH, and ET as well. I find it crazy for how heavy this car is, just how hard this thing pulls! (Until you hit 3rd)
When I get some slicks, new trans/converter, and maybe a few more ponies I have a feeling this thing will really start to surprise me!
One of the main things I enjoy about this car is the ability to roast tires at will. The B&M 3500 converter really adds on to that effect. Here is a picture right after the Cam/Carb swap of what a 3000 RPM Holeshot looks like:
[/URL]




1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  03:10:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Steve C.

You should be proud, good job.

P.S. If you encounter cooling issues look into a set up with a fan shroud.


I definitely am!
After the Cam the car gets up to 210 or so if I get into heavy traffic (Only if its 80 Plus degrees), 190 degrees cruising down the road all day long no problems.
That is one of the next things I need to look into. Im sure summit sells some kind of a universal shroud. I might try and make a cool one out of some sheet metal with my new welder.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  03:12:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cortcomp

Like the color, really loved the duck tail spoiler on those years!



I love the spoiler too! This car would be ugly without it!
If it were my choice the car would be a dark Metallic blue, but when shined up the gold looks nice!

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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rkellerjr
Many Feathers

USA
1260 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  08:35:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great start with that car! Looks good and sounds like you are having fun. Too bad I didn't know about the cam swap before hand, I ran into that same problem! LOL!

Rich
1975 TA - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aR86YT69yeY
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  10:49:47 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The timing chain pic above looks one link off.
Next time the cover is off, purchase or barrow a degree wheel and a dial indicator with magnetic base. Then set the intake center line or check the @ .050 numbers.

Car looks Good!


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 06 Oct 2015 10:57:30 AM
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Steve C.
Crazy Horse

1674 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  12:32:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
When the time comes for a 2004-r transmission I suggest you rethink about a tight 2200 stall converter. Personaly in my 2004-R set up I use a non lock up Continental converter, it can be built to stall above 3000-plus adequate for the combo and yet remain well coupled out on the open highway. I run 3.73 gears and a 28-inch tire. It has about a 200 rpm slip at a steady state cruise spee.

I bought it thru Cliff Ruggles, I suggest you discuss it with him when the time comes.

My opinion. Others like a lock up converter.

Edited by - Steve C. on 06 Oct 2015 12:33:09 PM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  12:40:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Steve, Does that help with the car wanting to pull or fight the brakes at a stop light? I like the car ready to go (not like it's in neutral at idle), but whatever one is in my 69 hits hard when you put it in gear, and fights the brakes pretty hard unless under like 700rpms, but i like the idle a little higher for when the AC is on.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  1:19:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Blued and Painted

The timing chain pic above looks one link off.
Next time the cover is off, purchase or barrow a degree wheel and a dial indicator with magnetic base. Then set the intake center line or check the @ .050 numbers.

Car looks Good!



I just purchased some 6x heads a few days ago, I will use a degree wheel from school to check it out either when I swap the heads on or when I get around to the 461 build. Runs Really good the way it is though.
Thanks!

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  1:26:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Steve C.

When the time comes for a 2004-r transmission I suggest you rethink about a tight 2200 stall converter. Personaly in my 2004-R set up I use a non lock up Continental converter, it can be built to stall above 3000-plus adequate for the combo and yet remain well coupled out on the open highway. I run 3.73 gears and a 28-inch tire. It has about a 200 rpm slip at a steady state cruise spee.

I bought it thru Cliff Ruggles, I suggest you discuss it with him when the time comes.

My opinion. Others like a lock up converter.



This is definitely something I need to do some more reading into, I haven't read too much into it because the 2801 probably wont be in the car when I do the transmission. When I figure out exactly what I'm doing with this engine/trans combo after I choose the cam then I will start working on the converter. I will most likely be running a non lockup converter since the car gets ran at the track from time to time, and a non- lockup converter is less rotating mass as well.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  1:53:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Alright, time for the most recent project on the car:


Took around 4 or 5 hours to gut the interior and sand/grind/chip all that nasty glue/tar looking stuff off the floor.

Yes, My car was originally a 4 speed. Still have the pedal!

First, I had a 4"x8" section of my floor pan to patch before I could go any further. Its not professional by any means but it works, the floor is sealed, and most people wont notice it now that its painted. The first 2 coats were a rustolem rust proofing primer (looks rust colored after it dries) and then 2 coats of semi-gloss black rustolem. I laid it all down with a small roller and a brush. It evens out very nicely and now after it has cured its hard to tell it was brushed on.


All done:


All said and done I have around 20 bucks in the entire job and around 12-13 hours total to finish it up. The carpet I pulled out of this thing is was NASTY! I think I found $15 just in change under the driver seat.

That is my most current project, the engine will most likely be pulled here in a month or so for winter time, and undergo a Head/Cam swap (Possibly on the cam), Paint the block and a few new gaskets and seals. Here in Northern Ohio we might have a month left to drive and enjoy our nice cars. After that before the first snow hits (and the salt hits the roads) My 'bird is going up on jackstands, fuel stabilizer in the tank and getting tarped until next March.




1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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Steve C.
Crazy Horse

1674 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  5:22:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
cortcomp (and others that might be interested).

Go to the maxperformanceinc.com website (old PY site) and do a search for the thread "lock up torque converter" posted 11-15-2014. Read Cliff Ruggles comments through out the thread and my post number 21 within that thread. I think it will be of interest.

Sorry I cant link it here. My computer bit the dust and I'm having to use a tablet that i'm unfamilar with to link stuff. Sorry, I'm not very computer savy. Like cams, I only know enough to get me into trouble.

I sit safely behind my computer and rely on Google... Bwahahahahaha :)

Edited by - Steve C. on 06 Oct 2015 5:40:44 PM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  7:09:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Here is that link:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=764421

I think the most surprising take away is: Cliff drives a nissan!
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Steve C.
Crazy Horse

1674 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  8:06:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
"big" cams... and to many that's 230 degrees duration! ... and tight converters don't seem to like a low idle rpm :) I've never had to deal with A/C in my hobby car but it certianly adds to the situation. And when I had power brakes, the answer for bigger cams was a remote mounted electric vacumm pump. A very simple sultion.

I have a tendecy to run bigger cams than most and dispite loose converters they like the idle rpm up toward 800-1000 rpm. Many would find that intollarable ! But there is another issue not related here to this thread, but I personaly run solid roller cams. Dispite one prominent person in our community that feels the natural mist lubrication from a running engine is adequate, I and many others, feel a higher idle rpm adds to spash lube to the solid roller valvetrain. I do so even though I use solid roller lifters with direct oiling to the lifter roller bearings (Crower HIPPO ).

P.S.---- I drive a Honda :)


Edited by - Steve C. on 06 Oct 2015 8:09:49 PM
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 06 Oct 2015 :  8:19:04 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I keep trying to get the wife into a honda because they're so affordable, reliable, good mileage, etc. I'm just not excited about anything GM right now.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 07 Oct 2015 :  3:43:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Alright guys, the past few days I have been figuring cost's on different builds for my engine. I am currently in a High Performance Engine Machining class at the University I attend. As previously stated my engine will be pulled out of the car here in a few more weeks once the bad weather hits. I need to do a few little things like a new oil pan gasket, correct Non-A/C dipstick, and clean/paint my engine. (As you can see in the pictures the block has paint peeling)

First I should list my goals:
#1 400-425 Hp (crank hp) on 93 octane (And as much torque as possible)
#2 Would like to incorporate a solid flat tappet cam (LOVE THE SOUND!)
#3 Make a 3800 Pound Second gen Firebird run into the mid- high 12's (Slicks, Correct gearing, correct converter obviously)
#4 Be able to re-use my current Intake/Carb combo

Being the non-wealthy college student I am, I have a total budget of 2500 (Or less) to make this happen.
The one nice advantage I have is the cost of machine work- totally free. We go through 6 weeks of training on all aspects of Head/Block Machining, and with the aide of a very qualified instructor, I have enough faith in my self to do all the work myself.
I figure if I have Millions of dollars worth of equipment at my disposal... I should take advantage of it.

I have a few scenario's that seem to both have their pro's and con's.
I will leave the cam choice until I pick one of my builds, then go from there.

Option 1: $1400 ($670 Premium engine kit, $70 ARP Rod Bolts, $100 MISC supplies)($450 Comp Magnum Solid Cam kit w/Springs/retainers/keepers/cam/timing set)

Basic .040/.060 Overbore
Speed Pro Forged Pistons On Stock Rods
ARP Rod bolts
Hot tank block, Zero Deck block, Align hone mains, Bore/Hone, New cam bearings, and Magnaflux all cast parts that will be reused
Find some 6x-4 heads or any other Large valve D port to come out with a SCR of 9.3-9.5:1 (BASIC head rebuild as well, milling easily done)
Appropriate Solid Flat tappet cam (Possibly Hydraulic)
Re use all other current parts (INT/CARB)
Is 400 Hp possible on this budget build?

Option #2 $2500
Budget 461 Stroker
From KRE's Website
"Ohio cast 4.21 stroke crank with 3.00" main journals, Keith Black Forged Pistons, 6.625 H-beam rods, Total Seal file fit rings, rod and main bearings. $1,591.00"
6x-8 Heads I have laying around that need some basic cleanup
ARP Rod bolts
Same Machining as Option #1
Solid Flat tappet cam tailored to build
(This should make more than 400 HP correct?)
(Bigger carb possibly needed?)

Option #3 ($2500)
Pull My engine, Fix a couple leaky gaskets and seals, Paint engine ($75)
Bolt on a set of KRE or Edelbrock (Correct CC) Heads for my application
Solid Flat tappet cam.
ARP Rod Bolts for piece of Mind.
This would save some weight off the nose of the car, but I feel their would be alot left on the table without a rebuild.

I had a borescope in my engine in my last class at UNOH. There was still crosshatch on the cylinder walls, and minimal carbon deposits on the tops of the pistons. When I had the top dress off during the cam swap, everything inside this engine points to either a low mile stocker, or possibly a basic re ring job done in the past.

Obviously leaning toward option 1 Due to cost's
What do you guys think?







1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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cortcomp
Coyote

USA
5335 Posts

Posted - 07 Oct 2015 :  3:50:43 PM  Show Profile  Visit cortcomp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I didn't read all of this, but i have some 6X-4 heads down at mr. p body's in Virginia. I sold the project they were going on. If you want them, PM me, we can make a deal, he can either ship them to you as-s, or do them up as you want and you can have them ready to go. I owe him a call on them anyways.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2015 :  2:16:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cortcomp

I didn't read all of this, but i have some 6X-4 heads down at mr. p body's in Virginia. I sold the project they were going on. If you want them, PM me, we can make a deal, he can either ship them to you as-s, or do them up as you want and you can have them ready to go. I owe him a call on them anyways.


I think Ill pass on this, I have decided to clean my 6x-8's up, mill after CC'ing and use them in a 455 build.
Granted 455 blocks are harder to come by, but I have been keeping my eyes open the last few days and I'm sure ill run up on a good short block here soon.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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Sparafucile
Sitting Bull

158 Posts

Posted - 10 Oct 2015 :  10:44:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
How much is this course? I might like to take it.

Spara
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 30 Oct 2015 :  02:05:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Sparafucile

How much is this course? I might like to take it.

Spara


I appoligize for the very late reply... been busy with class and other projects.
Our classes run in 6 week Sessions. Monday through Thursday for 5 hours a day. You have 3 different time slots you can choose from to have class 7:30 Am to 1230 Pm, 1 to 6 pm, or 630PM to 1130Pm (Im in the 630 to 1130)
They just raised tuition a few months ago for new students. The new rate is something like 1650 Dollars a session (6 weeks)
Im in a full associates degree program and I am locked in at 1500 a session.... Their is a prerequisite for this class, Automotive Engine Diagnosis and Repair (Basic engine theory class). If you talk to a registrar or possibly an admissions rep, you may be able to take classes individually without a pre req. This class teaches you the inns and outs of running machining equipment, Then their is a custom engine building class that follows this one. Customs class is literally all about building your own personal engine. You bring in a block all necessary parts, and you go to town for 6 weeks building your engine with the help of a VERY qualified instructor. Their are 3 instructors that teach this class... All are incredibly knowledgeable about all types of engines and have 20+ years of work in the High performance field.
Great school to attend, top notch actually... but Lima (town college is in) leaves alot to be desired.
Hope this helps, any other questions just ask.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 30 Oct 2015 :  02:09:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is a short sound clip of what the 2801 sounds like through an open exhaust system. Few Revs as well. You can really hear the rumble of the 2801 after the rev's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmAUAMQ6U3s

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 30 Oct 2015 :  02:54:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I now believe no matter how much I have my mind made up about the direction to go with this car, I inevitability wind up changing it every other month. I came across a 2.41 First gear Super T 10 a few months ago for 425 bucks. I thought I had it traded to a guy a few months back for a set of cragar wheels and some cash, turns out he decided against it. Originally I decided I wanted overdrive. Because the T56 and TK0 Transmissions would run at least 3 grand total (If I bought everything used) I had decided on a 2004R because it would bolt in. It seems that every time I drive my car, seeing the clutch petal just taunts me that the car should be a 4 speed. As of right now, since I already have the T10, I believe I will begin collecting parts for it to swap it in in the spring. In the very distant future, a gear vendors unit could be added to help with highway driving.
I am also torn between building the car for driving in 2 different states. Ohio Is very flat, and an overdrive transmission would be very beneficial to the car. However, I am finished with my degree next June. I just realized the other day that I should be building the car for the terrain that it will be driven on the most in the future. Back in VA, I live in a very mountainous area, with LOTS of CURVY roads. I have been torn between a pro touring look, and the Mid 70's Street racer look (Bigs and skinnies on cragars). I also realize that back home I will not be able to make it to the drag strip as often as in Ohio. I think now a corner carver is more of the direction I should be pursuing with the car. I have had my car back in Va one time, and the TH350 isnt exactly a blast to drive like it is up here in Ohio. It would be cool to keep my auto setup and be able to have 2 Choices of transmissions, which could be swapped out within 5 or 6 hours to whatever I wanted.
So, my current plans are as follows:

Gather Parts for the Super T-10 swap. All I need is a Bellhousing, Clutch Linkage kit (100 bucks) TH400 Output yoke, and a Hurst Shifter.
I already have Large sway bars front and rear, The car actually handles Incredibly well in stock trim the way it sits.
Pro touring F body has a "Combo Package" that includes their Subframe connectors, Solid body bushings, G braces, and Sway bar brace. Priced at $479 is considerably cheaper than buying things one at the time. My car is in need of SFC's, body is showing some stress cracks just behind the tops of the window's on each side.
17x9 and 17x10 Wheels. ZO6 replica wheels painted gold, or maybe some cragar soft 8's in gold. Hurst also makes some 17x10 Wheels called "Dazzlers" that are gold with a chrome lip that would look killer on my car. I saw a set when i was at JEGS in Columbus a few weeks ago. Large rubber on all 4 corners (Without mini-tubbing) They are around 200 a piece in the 17x10 variety.
As far as near future goes, This winter I will start collecting parts for the T-10 swap, and am still on the hunt for a 455 short-block to build in Custom's class next June. I have a feeling this thread will be somewhat dead for some time, I will post as I gather parts though.





1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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loosetappet
Sitting Bull

113 Posts

Posted - 01 Nov 2015 :  07:53:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great example of what this hobby is all about. I hope your car inspires others to get their Pontiacs on the road. Oh, BTW, check those brake lights. LOL. You don't need any unwanted attention from your local traffic enforcement.
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bluebird
Cochise

USA
292 Posts

Posted - 26 Nov 2015 :  5:47:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What rear gears do you have?

"Experience is the best teacher, unfortunately, it's the costliest!"
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 04 Dec 2015 :  11:57:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bluebird

What rear gears do you have?



3.08 LSD

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 21 Jan 2016 :  12:56:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Alright guys, Time for some updates and progress on the project! A few months ago while i was underneath my car, I discovered I had a VERY RUSTY fuel tank strap mount. The actual mount on the bottom of the trunk, not the strap itself. Rather than trying to repair it, I decided to Install a fuel cell in the trunk.
So I started by dropping the fuel tank itself. [/URL]

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 21 Jan 2016 :  01:36:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Next, I unbolted the strap from the passenger side. The rusty drivers side mount, I grabbed and with one swift tug the entire mount ripped off the bottom of the trunk floor. I am VERY GLAD I decided to tackle this now, Rather than fill up with 20 gallons of unleaded and take off from the gas station and have my fuel tank fall out on the road. Pictures of the Rusty strap:
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Lots more room under here now!
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After Removing the old tank, I proceeded to remove all the factory hardline and rubber line off of the car. Then the Mechanical fuel pump, and Installed a BBC Fuel pump block off plate from summit racing ($3.97).
Then I proceeded to plot out the trunk floor, by measuring and marking the center line of the trunk. I then ran down to my local metal supply (Lima Sheet metal) and purchased a 10 foot stick of 11 gauge (.120 wall) 1"x1" Square tubing to build a base for the cell (Only cost $15!). As many of you know the trunks in these second gen F bodies are very lopsided and uneven. This proved to be quite the challenge while making up this mount. To top this all off, my nice new Gas MIG welder crapped out on me. So I would up using my old Lincon Procore 100 to weld up this mount with. Yes its a crappy fluxcore welder, but with enough practice you CAN make half (but only half) decent looking welds with it. Here are a few pictures of the build process.
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[/URL]

Then I added some Rustolem Gold metal flake paint, which just so happens to perfectly match the car's paint color. (Same paint used on valve covers)
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It is bolted down with 2 1/2 inch bolts per leg through the trunk floor. Doesn't move or flex AT ALL.
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Then, Came the cell. I have HOURS and HOURS into making this thing PERFECTLY centered and PERFECTLY LEVEL with the car. I invested way more time into this cell mount than I care to admit. The cell has 1/4" of clearence to the trunk lid shutting, Sits 1/2" off the base of the highest point on the floor, and has just enough room to remove the filler lid.
[/URL]

All of my fuel system on the car is ran with -8AN (1/2") Aeroquip AQP Socketless Pushlock hose, and Aeroquips Pushlock hose ends. This Hose is rated for -40 to 400 degrees, 300PSI, and is fully NHRA Legal (because of the heavy outter braid). I have used lots of the Pushlock style hose and hose ends on High performance Diesel applications in the past, and the stuff works flawlessly and gives very few issues. Be warned, you get what you pay for when it comes to this style (and braided as well) of hose. I have seen the Cheap no name China stuff give way and crack within a year or two. This Aeroquip hose was $84 for 20 feet. Very expensive yes, but its worth it to pony up and buy it once rather than have some china crap leak and catch your car on fire.

Next, I installed my Holley Black pump.
[/URL]
Then I made up my first push lock hose for the car. The trick to this stuff is to heat the hose BEFORE YOU TRY TO PUSH IT ON THE FITTING! I have experience with this stuff from past projects, my preferred method is to clamp the hose end into a vice with a shop rag around it, then Dip the hose end into very hot, almost boiling water. Then very swiftly force the softened hose end onto the fitting until it fully seats in its little ring. Some people use a heat gun, I prefer the water because it heats the hose all at once, uniformly.
[/URL]
You can also see my regulator and filter setup. Right now I am using the cheap Holley regulator, I have a nice Mallory regulator back home in VA I will use later on down the road. The Filter is Summit Racing brand that was $15 and has replaceable cartridges. It is connected to the regulator with a Male 3/8 NPT to Female -8AN Fitting. The Holley black uses these as well to convert 3/8 NPT to -8AN.
Currently, That is where I am at with the project. Friday I will get back at it with running the rest of the line down the frame rail, mounting the regulator, and finishing the rest of the wiring for the fuel pump relay kit. Currently I am in class from 1PM until Midnight, So time is limited to the weekends to work on this project!
I have another box from summit coming tomorrow with all the stuff to overhaul my ignition system. I will update with more pics hopefully Saturday when the fuel system is complete. Glad to be making progress on this car again!

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 21 Jan 2016 :  01:43:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
From how large these pictures posted, I just noticed that HIDEOUS rear brake line! Thing looks a bit scary... Guess I will add that to the list of things to do!

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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Admin
Ye Olde Webmaster

844 Posts

Posted - 21 Jan 2016 :  11:12:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Curious, how long did it take you to remove the OEM gas tank? Was there much gas left in it?

"Dedicated to keeping the classic Pontiac engine alive."

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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 22 Jan 2016 :  12:12:01 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It took me around 10 minutes to do by myself. It had around 1/8th of a tank so 2 maybe 3 gallons in it. I used an old car tire, slid it underneath the tank, and used my 3/8 impact to zip the 2 9/16 bolts on the rear of the straps. The tank will gradually slide on to the tire, Undo your fuel lines on the top of the tank, and it will slide right out. No jack needed.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 26 Jan 2016 :  01:55:04 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Time for an update! I accomplished quite a bit this weekend, but took few pictures.
Here is my under hood after running the 1/2 AQP Line. I looked and pondered for quite a while about where to put the filter/regulator. I really hate how the line runs through the engine bay and across the fender well. Eventually I will get some protective heat wrap and flip the Filter/Regulator 180 degrees. Then route it behind the distributor, along the drivers side of the intake, under the coolant hose and enter the carb. It is 100% Functional now, I just cant stand how out of place it looks in the engine bay.
[/URL]
I will take some more pictures this weekend of how the hose is routed along the frame rail.
Funny story... So I had been working all day long on plumbing the lines, wiring the fuel pump relay, mounting the toggle switch, making trips to the hardware store to buy electrical connectors, so I finally get 5 gallons of fresh gas in the fuel cell, hit the toggle switch for the pump and I hear WOOOOMMM GURGLE GURGLE GURGLE. It took about 3.5 seconds for me to realize exactly what had happened. THE PUMP WAS MOUNTED WITH THE OUTLET SIDE TOWARD THE CELL AND THE INLET TOWARD THE CARB. Apparently, Holley ships these pumps with the body rotated for drivers side inlet. (Guess most people run their fuel system down the drivers side frame). The pump sucked all the gas out of the carb and was aerating the fuel cell. So, after 20 minutes and lots of swearing, with 2 quarts of gasoline spilled on the floor and with at least a quart in my shirt, (Thank goodness for shop dry) I finally had the pump mounted and Fired it up! To my absolute amazement none of my fittings leaked! What an experience. I suppose the moral of the story is always PAY ATTENTION to the little stuff.
I will report back this weekend with More pictures of how the fuel system is ran, along with my MSD 6AL-2 box install, and how to Setup and wire an GM HEI for an external coil and MSD box.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 29 Jan 2016 :  11:49:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Find an oil dip stick for a non A/C car and remove that floppy upper tube. The shorter stick will fit in the block tube between the exhaust outlets.


Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 29 Jan 2016 :  10:26:28 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That stupid dipstick has driven me crazy since I bought the car. I figured since the engine was from a Catalina it probably had A/C, and that's why it didn't have a good place to mount. Tomorrow if I have time I will run to the parts store and get some actual heater hose as well. The Previous owner thought is was a good idea to use GARDEN HOSE for the heater circuit. Could someone do me a huge favor and measure a dipstick from a Non A/C 400 or 455? Orileys lists a 17.5 inch dipstick and a 21 inch dipstick. Or maybe someone knows off the top of their head?

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 29 Jan 2016 :  10:32:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jegs lists the 17.5 inch Mr. Gasket 9898 dipstick to fit most Pontiac 400's without A/C Ill give that a shot tomorrow and see if that works.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 30 Jan 2016 :  2:37:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sounds right. Looks like you cannot just cut off the long stick. The block tube OD is 1/2 where the a/c extention is 3/8th.





Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.

Edited by - Blued and Painted on 30 Jan 2016 2:38:18 PM
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 31 Jan 2016 :  12:08:33 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Shoot. I remember in the episode of Horsepower TV in the Pontiac 400 build they said something about the A/C 3 piece dipstick having to be pressed in to the block before you could install the pan or something to that effect. Looks like I am stuck with crappy 3 piece until I build the engine. At some point this thing is coming out for new seals and gaskets anyways. Oil pan has a slight leak but nothing too concerning just yet, I will convert to the 2 piece then. Thanks for the Pics and measurements, Im sure this will help others somewhere down the line!

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 31 Jan 2016 :  08:34:25 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Butler has that stuff. The main piece is pressed into the block in both cases (AC and non AC). The AC extension just slips into it and is retained by bolting to the AC compressor bracket. On the non AC set up, the shorter dipstick goes straight into the pressed in tube (no extension). Then there is the bottom end variation depending upon whether you have a windage tray or not.

I'll be working out in the garage today, I can measure one of my stock non AC dipsticks if you still need the length.(?)

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.

Edited by - Phil on 31 Jan 2016 08:35:13 AM
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Blued and Painted
Chief PONTIAC

USA
3405 Posts

Posted - 31 Jan 2016 :  12:52:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think he said the press in block tube is the same with or without A/C.

The lower tube bolted to the main caps must be intact or the dip stick would be snapped off.

I had no problem swapping parts between the red and blue car. The red car has a retro fit modern a/c compressor so the mounting brackets were changed and the mounting point was lost.





Bull Nose Formula/ 461/ Q-Jet/
TH400/ 3.08 8.5 / R44TS.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 01 Feb 2016 :  12:28:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
In that case I will try the MR Gasket 9898 and see if it fits right in. Ill add that to my summit cart and wait for another 100 dollar order to come about so I can get free shipping.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 02 Apr 2016 :  12:39:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Time for an UPDATE! Its been too long!
Over the past few weeks I have been gathering parts for my Super T10 swap. I finally got around to starting the swap this past Sunday.
Laid my tarp down, Put the car up on jacks and started removing the old TH-350. This only took around 3 hours to do by myself. The tricky part was getting the bellhousing between the long tube Headman Headers. The only thing I will miss is the B&M Holeshot 3500 Stall converter... That really made the car a blast to drive!
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Next my large order from summit came in with lots of goodies!
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Then My flywheel from Kajun John arrived in the mail. I didn't take any pictures but I would HIGHLY recommend his flywheels to anyone looking for a classic pontiac flywheel. His flywheel doesn't have the depth issue (this allows the use of ARP flywheel bolts WITH THE WASHERS as they are intended to be used). My 1973 400 used the Large Crank Register hole, He sent me an adapter for an extra 15 bucks that allows his flywheel to be used on a small crank register engine. Will definitely be doing business with Him again, Very helpful and knowledgeable guy.

Here Is my clutch disc, It is an 11 inch clutch that has a dual friction face, It has this copper ceramic disc on one side, and the other side (Pressure plate side) is organic. It is a McLeod Super Street Pro that is rated at 500HP.
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Here is what it looks like installed with ARP Hardware. Torqued to 25 ft/Lbs
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Next, I Removed the Side cover of my 2.43 First Super T-10 and cleaned off all the old RTV.
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Then I cleaned and painted the cast iron sidecover. Installed new Shift-Shaft seals and a new sidecover gasket This picture also shows the firebird central reproduction bellhousing (260 bucks) Has provisions for both driver and passenger side starter.
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I am using the factory clutch linkage setup, I purchased a full kit for 150 dollars from firebird central that includes everything you need to make the 3rd pedal work.
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Then I set up my Hurst Competition Plus shifter. I bought an install kit for my year car off summit (200 bucks) that includes all the linkage and mounting plate. Then I found a used but rebuilt Hurst Competition Plus Shifter body and handle (Stick and Knob) For 150 on Ebay. Most all Hurst Shifters share the same body, You just need the install kit for your particular car. Took me around 2 hours to fully set it up and get all the linkages to fit just right. I ordered a Pit Pack from hurst that includes steel bushings instead of the nylon ones that come with the kit, it provides a more firm shift and they don't wear as quickly.

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After that the trans was ready to install. I wound up buying an on the ground transmission jack to aid in the install process. The floor jack method is just too annoying and somewhat dangerous. I tried for 3 hours or so my self trying to get this thing in and it just wouldn't go up into the pilot bushing, the splines were lined up on the disc, It just would not line up with the pilot bushing so I wound up having a buddy push the trans from the back and I picked up just a bit right at the front of the bellhousing and it went right in. No way I would have ever gotten this T-10 in by myself. Before I had the trans jack I actually just picked the entire trans/bellhousing up by hand and tried installing it like that by myself and came very close but ran out of steam before I could get it all lined up. Moral of the story is have a buddy when installing a trans! I have done several manual transmissions by myself and it always goes smoother with someone to guide and direct!
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Thats an energy suspension poly transmission mount.
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1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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Cowpatty69
Sitting Bull

USA
137 Posts

Posted - 03 Apr 2016 :  08:52:06 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Have to hide your post from my son- he wants to swap out every automatic we have with a manual, lol. (Me too, actually ) nice progress, looks like a smokin beast!

Got Poncho?
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 03 Apr 2016 :  12:06:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
How's the quality of that linkage kit? Did they list a different one for Firebird or only one and for Camaro? Strange how it breaks the years up but includes them all anyway (70-81).

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 03 Apr 2016 :  11:12:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cowpatty69

Have to hide your post from my son- he wants to swap out every automatic we have with a manual, lol. (Me too, actually ) nice progress, looks like a smokin beast!


Ha! Just wait till I post up the sweet Hurst shifter and boot all installed in the car! That will seal the deal for sure!
In all seriousness this has cost a good deal more than I expected. Their are so many little parts and pieces you forget about and little snags here and there that keep progress from happening. Do your sons know how to drive manual? I was taught at a very early age how to drive a manual (11yrs old) and it really stuck with me. Being able to drive a manual trans is a dying art this day in age. Pretty soon that will be all the theft deterrent you need! I can email you a parts list of all the things required to do a swap if you ever decide to do so. I always keep my eyes open for super T-10's at a good price, they are getting hard to find (with a desirable gear ratio) and are really increasing almost to a muncie level in value.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 03 Apr 2016 :  11:17:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Phil

How's the quality of that linkage kit? Did they list a different one for Firebird or only one and for Camaro? Strange how it breaks the years up but includes them all anyway (70-81).


I was impressed with the quality of the kit right out of the box, the powdercoat is very nice. The Z-Bar is greasable, and honestly this kit saved a ton of time hunting down all the rods and springs to make it happen. Right now all I have installed is the outer frame plate, Z bar, upper clutch rod from the pedal, and the pivot ball at the engine. I will report back when its all setup and adjusted. And I found it very strange too that it says camaro, I suppose they share the exact same clutch setup. Even the box it was shipped in said "camaro central" right on the box. Everything seems to fit as it should though.

1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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79FORMULA400
Buffalo

USA
75 Posts

Posted - 04 Apr 2016 :  12:10:44 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I had a really bad end play problem on my distributor (.090 endplay). I made a short 3 min video on how to correct the endplay issue on GM HEI distributors.
https://youtu.be/6BUQuNGaMKk


1979 Formula 400 WS6, 1973 400 engine 4X Heads. Summit 2801 Cam, 8AN Fuel System,Edelbrock Performer MSD Dist, 6AL-2 Holley 750 Double Pumper,Super T-10, McLeod Super Street Pro, LSD Rear.
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Phil
The Great White Buffalo

USA
7215 Posts

Posted - 04 Apr 2016 :  1:56:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Interesting regarding the linkage kit.

Regarding the distributor, shimming up the endplay is fine but double check upon installation for clearance against the gear/oil pump shaft (installed with dist. gasket and hold down tightened). I opened up mine recently on my new engine because it felt too tight when installed. Tis' fine now.

Bowties are for Pee-wee Herman. "Chevy": even the name sounds cheap, but not as cheap as your Pontiac will be with an LS transplant.
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