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Bill Boyle Posted - 02 Jan 2018 : 1:06:23 PM
Once again I'm looking at a rolling lower tool cabinet to house tools. I'd like it to have locking wheels and be about 18" or so in depth. I'm considering this one:

Homak BL04011410 41-Inch Professional Series 11-Drawer Rolling Cabinet, Blue


Anyone familiar with Homak products?

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Bill Boyle Posted - 11 Jan 2018 : 12:05:43 PM
My mechanics tools always seem to be far away from my work. Years and years ago, portable tool boxes were used almost exclusively by me. Each box contained pliers, a ball peen hammer, wrenches, several screw drivers, sockets, ratchets and extensions. Today I have two metal boxes with drawers and they house "extras." I rely mostly on what is held in my small cabinet and tool chest. I also have two specialized wooden tool chests with drawers that contain specialized machine tools, gauges, mikes, drills and taps etc.

Byron, you might want to arm yourself with a Craftsman portable tool box that you hand carry to your work area. You can include those tools necessary for the job and change it as you go. (Something like this one: https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-3-drawer-portable-tool-chest?taxon_id=2230 )

rkellerjr Posted - 11 Jan 2018 : 10:45:07 AM
The casters on mine seem great and the unit rolls around with ease. The vice I put on is just held with nuts and bolts, I could remove it easily.
Bentwings Posted - 11 Jan 2018 : 10:21:20 AM
Please excuse the goofy extra letters ans signs. My new iPad software does this as well as spellings. The text here is pretty small for my aging eyes. LOL
Bentwings Posted - 11 Jan 2018 : 10:18:44 AM
Looking at these cool rollaround lowers got me thinking. I live in an appartment and they really don?t like it when I workmon my Streetrods in the inderground garage. I usually have to plan the operation carefully and take whatever tools I think I?ll need down to the garage in a hand box or store it in the garage space cabinets.

I thought maybe a roll around lower of modest size would work. I don?t have power available so batteries rule. The vice is cool. However I can see it getting in the way so if it were mounted with 3/8? blind nuts it could be removable and stored in say the bottom drawer.

I also build rc airplanes in my spare bed room so having a nice top is a plus. I usually use a door as a table as they are very straight and perfect size. Again some blind nuts and flat head screws could secure it it upstairs. I can level it easily as I usually do.

The whole thing needs to be very portable. Most of these have cheapo wheel sets so maybe I could add a better and larger wheel set. My old one didn?t roll easil6 on the carpet hallway.. soft wheels would be a plus on the spalled concrete in the garage. Black color would be less visible....I have to be a bit covert working on cars in the ?dungeon?

Any ideas?

Miles Posted - 11 Jan 2018 : 09:09:55 AM
Well the tools were my living, and in 20 years it cost me $100 per year, who knows how much per hour. 25 years ago we didn't make much per hour so it was a major investment.
When I worked up north on float/skiplanes I made a wagon frame for my smaller box to sit on, then four wheel barrow tires and a steering axle so I could move the box down the docks or across the ice on the frozen lakes. A real pain getting a flat tire when it's 45*F below freezing.
Blued and Painted Posted - 10 Jan 2018 : 12:06:42 PM
The professional boxes like Mac, Snap on, Cornwell are of heavier gauge steel, extra reinforcement for weight on wheels, double roller drawer slides, spring loaded HD casters, powder coat finish.
The boxes in above posts are more than suitable for home and weekend warrior use.
If your working out of your tool box 8 hours a day, 310 days a year, for 30 years, then the Cadillac box is cost effective. JMO?
Miles Posted - 10 Jan 2018 : 10:29:56 AM
Holy cow, prices have sure dropped since I bought mine. Proto 14 drawer 24"D X 45"W X 36#T with non-locking 6" casters. Has a locking jack on the end to keep it from moving and stable on uneven floors. $2000 in 1992. Had to switch from the typical mechanics lower roller-upper chest in order to get the box under low aircraft wings in the hanger.
Phil Posted - 05 Jan 2018 : 3:45:22 PM
I used the one like in Rich's photos (from Home Cheapo), except I bought TWO and mounted one on top of the other. Works great and looks like a pro deal for a fraction of the cost.
Bill Boyle Posted - 05 Jan 2018 : 12:59:45 PM
John--that's a pretty nice unit too.
js292 Posted - 05 Jan 2018 : 11:45:26 AM
I picked this one up at sears a few months back when I was looking, for the price I couldn't beat it.

Blued and Painted Posted - 03 Jan 2018 : 11:27:35 AM
Don't think I wood knock out controll arm bushings but it will definitely hold many projects in place.

I recently tuned up the fit and function on my vice and finished it off with Pontiac Blue Metallic.

The tops normally just fit in the box frame work
Bill Boyle Posted - 03 Jan 2018 : 08:43:50 AM
Rich, those are helpful photos. Thanks.

rkellerjr Posted - 03 Jan 2018 : 06:26:26 AM
The top is attached by some big screws from underneath. The vice, I drilled the holes into the top and secured with bolts.

Bill Boyle Posted - 03 Jan 2018 : 06:05:33 AM
Adding a vice to the cabinet would be ideal.

My garage was my dad's and he mostly did woodworking in there. Consequently, I inherited all of his woodworking tools and mechanics tools. Then off course I had my own of both.

When my TA is finished, I'd like to make alterations to the garage to gain a little more width so my TA and Corvette can live inside when not in use. I'm thinking that the long 8+ foot wood work bench my dad built that contains a heavy vice, fittings for a wood vice, and wire wheel and buffing machine needs to go, or be shortened and reduced in width. That would give me more wall space to mount racks and place other equipment along the wall. The area where cars need go needs to be clear, not cluttered with tools, equipment and stuff.

Where the metal storage unit we've been discussing would go, would be on the opposite side of the garage where I've already removed another 8' wooden workbench cabinet my dad built. At 24" wide it prevented doors on any car from being opened enough so one didn't have to become a contortionist to enter it. Having a slimmer and movable metal cabinet might be quite functional for me especially with a vice mounted on it.

I'll explore the Husky unit--I like the wood top feature a lot.
rkellerjr Posted - 02 Jan 2018 : 11:28:38 PM
Wood top is 3/4" solid wood and I have mounted a small/medium vice on it too. I'm not sure how the top is mounted, I'll have to take a look and get back with you but it isn't going anywhere. I'll also take a pic tomorrow. I am very pleased with it, have had it for several years now.

Scroll down in the link I provided, lots of details on it, drawer measurements, etc.
Blued and Painted Posted - 02 Jan 2018 : 7:51:00 PM
I would feel comfortable mounting a medium size vice on that husky.
Bill Boyle Posted - 02 Jan 2018 : 6:11:15 PM
Rich--how thick is the wood top? Also, how is it fastened to the cabinet?
rkellerjr Posted - 02 Jan 2018 : 4:50:59 PM
Here's one for your consideration. this is the one I bought and works great. Slightly bigger than the Homak your looking at...

46 in. 9-Drawer Mobile Workbench with Solid Wood Top, Black
cortcomp Posted - 02 Jan 2018 : 2:37:18 PM
That's a decent price. I shopped for a new box last year, and i'm appalled at the prices. $240 worth of steel and labor selling for 1k+. It's a box whose job is to prevent gravity from pulling all the tools in a pile on the floor. It's not electronic, hydraulic, precision machined, nothing. just bent and painted steel. I'm not even talking about snap on level boxes either, even harbor freight, and used boxes command a premium. If i had more tools, time and motivation, i would have just made one out of wood. After a lot of searching, comparing, and digging, i ended up with the one below and felt it was the best value for it's size. My father in law got one and likes it and a mechanic at one of my customer has one and likes it as well. The top section i have a power bar on for the laptop, phone charger, speakers, dremel/drill chargers, etc. You can shut it when painting or grinding/welding to keep the crap out of the electric devices.


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